View Poll Results: which connecting rod is the strongest?
Callies Compstar
47
14.92%
Oliver Billet
101
32.06%
Scat with ARP 2000 rod bolts
18
5.71%
Eagle forged
27
8.57%
Lunati pro billet
65
20.63%
Corrillo
57
18.10%
Voters: 315. You may not vote on this poll
strongest 6.125 rod?
I ordered the Callies with my 402 along with a Callies crank. I have heard that they are both great pieces and can handle some serious power.
I'm sure all aftermarket pieces are a great upgrade over stock, but probably just personal preference on name brands...
I'm sure all aftermarket pieces are a great upgrade over stock, but probably just personal preference on name brands...
It's between the Oliver Billet with ARP3.5 Rod Bolts and the Carrillo with SPS Carr bolts.
I'd probably lean ever so slightly toward the Carrillo rods, because they are H-Beam, but the Oliver Rods are NASCAR parts too and their parabolic beam is patented, so you can't go wrong with either one.
I have Oliver in my car, though, and I still can't vote for one over the other.
Nothing else on that list is even close in terms of quality or price.
I'd probably lean ever so slightly toward the Carrillo rods, because they are H-Beam, but the Oliver Rods are NASCAR parts too and their parabolic beam is patented, so you can't go wrong with either one.
I have Oliver in my car, though, and I still can't vote for one over the other.
Nothing else on that list is even close in terms of quality or price.
Strongest Rod Probably the Cup grade Lentz w/Carr SPS bolts or the Cup grade Carrillo w/SPS bolts. These also have forced pin oiling.
Either of these, when fully optioned out would probably cause terminal sticker shock!!
Either of these, when fully optioned out would probably cause terminal sticker shock!!
Trending Topics
Oliver has the EDM pin oiling at only $55 a rod.
Lentz is also very good, but you're looking at $3k+ for a set, and I'm not sure they are significantly better than an Oliver rod. A street engine or even drag engine will never see the sustained forces of a Cup engine, so I think a standard Oliver rod would take anything you could throw at it.
Lentz is also very good, but you're looking at $3k+ for a set, and I'm not sure they are significantly better than an Oliver rod. A street engine or even drag engine will never see the sustained forces of a Cup engine, so I think a standard Oliver rod would take anything you could throw at it.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
It's between the Oliver Billet with ARP3.5 Rod Bolts and the Carrillo with SPS Carr bolts.
I'd probably lean ever so slightly toward the Carrillo rods, because they are H-Beam, but the Oliver Rods are NASCAR parts too and their parabolic beam is patented, so you can't go wrong with either one.
I have Oliver in my car, though, and I still can't vote for one over the other.
Nothing else on that list is even close in terms of quality or price.
I'd probably lean ever so slightly toward the Carrillo rods, because they are H-Beam, but the Oliver Rods are NASCAR parts too and their parabolic beam is patented, so you can't go wrong with either one.
I have Oliver in my car, though, and I still can't vote for one over the other.
Nothing else on that list is even close in terms of quality or price.
several turbo mustang guys in the 7's on eagle rods (even with standard bolts).
Ive seen BBC guys are in the 7's as well on them (and just longer which the longer they are the weaker I would say)
Ive seen BBC guys are in the 7's as well on them (and just longer which the longer they are the weaker I would say)
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Kona, Pearl Ridge
Originally Posted by Jeremiah
I have seen the same on several stock rodded motors.
that doesnt mean the stock rods are weak its just the block is stronger 
i know some guys who swap pistons and are cherry with the stockers but piece of mind is worth the $$$ when a new motor is a lot more expensive.
Originally Posted by machinistone
Out of your list I would pick Carrillo's, The Oliver rods seem to have a hard time being disassembled and re torqued, they go out of round.
Another rod that is good is the Howards Racing Components Powder Forged connecting rods. The fracture cap technology helps the rod keep it's roundness. And the material it's made from is extremely tough.
I can shift faster than you.
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,133
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge, LA
I have used all the ones on your list in various builds and my vote would be for the Carrillo rods w/ the SPS CARR bolts.
As mentioned, there are some other manufacturers you might want to look into like Lentz, Howards, etc.
Another set of rods I have used with great results are the Manley Billets. I would use them over the Lunati Pro-Billets any day of the week.
I have never had a problem with an Eagle rods as well. Most of the time, they do require more machining out of the box before being ready for use. In the end, the money you do save on them initially is lost due to this compared to a rod that is ready for use.
Jason
As mentioned, there are some other manufacturers you might want to look into like Lentz, Howards, etc.
Another set of rods I have used with great results are the Manley Billets. I would use them over the Lunati Pro-Billets any day of the week.
I have never had a problem with an Eagle rods as well. Most of the time, they do require more machining out of the box before being ready for use. In the end, the money you do save on them initially is lost due to this compared to a rod that is ready for use.
Jason
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
The question to ask is: Which rod is the strongest for its weight? Also termed "Specific Strength." You can design a rod that is stronger than anything, but it's going to weigh a ton. I believe in paying the most for optimized products. All the manufacturers optimize to some degree, but it would be interesting to see a subjecting tensile and compressive test for all the the major designs. Even more interesting would be to determine which is the most capable at high rpm vs which rod is best for max cylinder pressure. I doubt they will be the same design. Fatigue is another issue to consider (how long will it hold together under repeated abuse). The rod that is strongest in a one-time compression test won't necessarily last the longest in an endurance competition. Just my $0.02. These are the question I would be most interested in having answered.