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IRON 408 or 414 in my C5

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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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Default IRON 408 or 414 in my C5

whats your opinion or experiance with putting an IRON block in the C5, I'm going to be spraying this motor so
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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i was told to go with an iron block 408 for my build. You can spray or boost it without worry.

I like your choice of vehicles too.

The SS is nice but a gas guzzler big time eh? Mine is getting 13.8 on the highway!
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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414ci would be nasty!
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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my SS sucks gas, and I'm starting not to like that truck very much, I'm going to prolly rid my self of it soon and grab a new avalanche
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 02:02 PM
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I think a 408 will make good power with the L92/L67 set up
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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My 414ci made 540rwhp at 26* with detanation. Buying TFS in two weeks
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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Vettes have great handling--until you put that heavy block in there. Something to think about.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 04:18 AM
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have a word with some of the guy on the vettefroum. very nice lot and lots of them have iron 408's. very strong motors but do you REALLY need it??? ally blocks have gone over 1000bhp after all.

Chris.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 07:03 AM
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If you plan to spray it, then I'd say Iron. Of course, I'm biased. I'm happy with mine. One thing I noticed since going to the iron block, is that the opperating temp went down during every day driving.

I went with doweled steel main billet caps, for minimal distortion in the lower end. You could do the same to an alum block, and increase the strength, or in addition put a girdle on top of the billet caps. Depends on what you plan to do. How much do you plan to spray? If you are spraying 200 or less, IMO you'd be safe with the aluminum block with steel billet mains, and or girdle.

Anything above 200, just go with the iron, and have piece of mind that there is going to be minimal distortion when you spray it. If it's put together right, you wont have to worry about shitting rods out the bottom, or side of the block, like I did while spraying a 200 shot on an alum block.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Black Sunshine/ 00SS
If you plan to spray it, then I'd say Iron. Of course, I'm biased. I'm happy with mine. One thing I noticed since going to the iron block, is that the opperating temp went down during every day driving.

I went with doweled steel main billet caps, for minimal distortion in the lower end. You could do the same to an alum block, and increase the strength, or in addition put a girdle on top of the billet caps. Depends on what you plan to do. How much do you plan to spray? If you are spraying 200 or less, IMO you'd be safe with the aluminum block with steel billet mains, and or girdle.

Anything above 200, just go with the iron, and have piece of mind that there is going to be minimal distortion when you spray it. If it's put together right, you wont have to worry about shitting rods out the bottom, or side of the block, like I did while spraying a 200 shot on an alum block.
sorry to hear the ally block let go on you like that!!

there wasa guy on the vetteforum spraying a built LS7. think he was pushing well over 800rwhp and spraying about a 250 shot! was a really nice motor!

thanks Chris.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Sunshine/ 00SS
If you plan to spray it, then I'd say Iron. Of course, I'm biased. I'm happy with mine. One thing I noticed since going to the iron block, is that the opperating temp went down during every day driving.

I went with doweled steel main billet caps, for minimal distortion in the lower end. You could do the same to an alum block, and increase the strength, or in addition put a girdle on top of the billet caps. Depends on what you plan to do. How much do you plan to spray? If you are spraying 200 or less, IMO you'd be safe with the aluminum block with steel billet mains, and or girdle.

Anything above 200, just go with the iron, and have piece of mind that there is going to be minimal distortion when you spray it. If it's put together right, you wont have to worry about shitting rods out the bottom, or side of the block, like I did while spraying a 200 shot on an alum block.
did the handling change much with the iron block? I just drag race my car for the most part, I'm not big on driving at high speeds on the Eway because the roads suck in michigan anyways

I'm going with an Eagle rotating assembly so I should be good on that
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 08:32 AM
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The handling didn't change much for me. But I have a Camaro, not a C5. I also have tubular sub frame, fiberglass pin on hood, etc.. Set up is for drag.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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I didn't feel much of a handling change when comparing the LS1 to the 408 LQ9.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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I'd go Aluminum block all the way! Why put an extra 110lbs in the car.. We are less then 1000hp correct? Iron is for 1200+ HP

Last edited by SLED28; Mar 31, 2007 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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You always hear that the iron is stronger than aluminum, which it is, but you never hear of anyone actually splitting an aluminum block and saying "Man if I would have gone iron this wouldnt have happened." Just something to think about
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rking
You always hear that the iron is stronger than aluminum, which it is, but you never hear of anyone actually splitting an aluminum block and saying "Man if I would have gone iron this wouldnt have happened." Just something to think about
You probably wont split the block but you will get bore distortion with aluminum much more so than iron. Although if you're going big, iron is the way to go. I know noyzee was running 9.40's on a ls1 block (300 direct port) and didn't have any problems.

Marty
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rking
You always hear that the iron is stronger than aluminum, which it is, but you never hear of anyone actually splitting an aluminum block and saying "Man if I would have gone iron this wouldnt have happened." Just something to think about
this is what i was thinking! i mean if people like W2W are selling ally block strokers cappable of 1250bhp (around 1000rwhp) then the block MUST be strong enough! i know they use the best of the best in terms of components but they are still using GM blocks.

and anyway, lets say you crack a liner or something. then you can just get the block fitted with some carton 427 liners and go even bigger!!

Chris.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.MartyStone
You probably wont split the block but you will get bore distortion with aluminum much more so than iron. Although if you're going big, iron is the way to go. I know noyzee was running 9.40's on a ls1 block (300 direct port) and didn't have any problems.

Marty
i also went 9.0 with about 300-350 with an ls2 402.
im going 408 ls2 this season im not scared and no way do i want the extra weight if the alum will handle it, and so far im ok with alum.
last year i was close to 1,000 rwhp with both stages
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