0w-40
What i dont get is why anyone would be running a 0W oil in the spring or for that matter anyone that lives down south would use an 0W oil. Thats way thin when cold and is not needed plus it has **** loads of polymers in it to bring it to a 40 weight when hot.
More polymers = less lubrication
More polymers = less lubrication
I like the results that I have gotten using it..it has 55-60 lbs at idle when it is dead cold and over 40lbs at idle when its hot..65+ lbs when you are getting it on... I like it like that .. 
Originally Posted by slt200mph
I like the results that I have gotten using it..it has 60 lbs at idle when it is dead cold and over 40lbs at idle when its hot..65+ lbs when you are getting it on... I like it like that ..
Oil should be selected for its lubrication properties, not for the oil psi you get when running it. By the way the general rule is 10PSI of oil for every 1000 RPM's, an LS1 oil system could push water at the minimum PSI needed. There is no need to try to run the wrong oil just for oil psi.
Originally Posted by brad8266
Well i have Castrol 5W-30 and I have 50 at idle and about 70 when i get on it.
It sounds like what you use works for you just like what I use works for me ... if we were all the same it would be a dull *** world ...
Originally Posted by slt200mph
It sounds like what you use works for you just like what I use works for me ... if we were all the same it would be a dull *** world ...
Originally Posted by brad8266
True but buying an oil based on what your oil PSi is doesnt make sense.
I could run straight 50 weight in my car and would have oil pressure that's through the roof....is it protecting my engine any better....No LS1 Tech Stories
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Verdad Gallardo I use it becasue I like the results that it has provided me..I have had my oil annalized and at 5000 miles is still has plenty of life left in it..but I choose to change at 5K ..we will agree to disagree ... obviously my engine likes it 130,000 miles and running strong and using no oil to speak of sounds like it is working to me..it seems like you are one of those guys that has to have a black and white I am right and you are wrong kind of attitude..this has gone way past boring ... you like Castol and I like M1 ... they are both a good product ..have a nice day..
Originally Posted by brad8266
What i dont get is why anyone would be running a 0W oil in the spring or for that matter anyone that lives down south would use an 0W oil. Thats way thin when cold and is not needed plus it has **** loads of polymers in it to bring it to a 40 weight when hot.
More polymers = less lubrication
More polymers = less lubrication
Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
Have you ever even looked at the viscosities of the 0w40? It is still thicker, the only time it gets much thinner and really is effected by the "0" part of it, is in more artic conditions.
Something more like a 20W-40 would be much better if you realy want the 40 weight warm becaue it has less polymers in it. The 0W-40 is loaded with polymers.
Launching!
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by brad8266
Right it is thin when cold, then gets thick when hot. The 35 wieght difference between hot and cold is due to lots of added polymers in the oil mix. It is the polymers in it that alloow the oil to be a 0 weight when cold and a 40 weight when hot. The polymers displace the actual lubricating oil, so the more polymers means that the oil lubricates less. This is a well known fact about oil. More polymers=less lubrication.
Something more like a 20W-40 would be much better if you realy want the 40 weight warm becaue it has less polymers in it. The 0W-40 is loaded with polymers.
Something more like a 20W-40 would be much better if you realy want the 40 weight warm becaue it has less polymers in it. The 0W-40 is loaded with polymers.
The measure of an oil’s viscosity change is called the Viscosity Index Number (VI); the higher the number, the smaller the viscosity change which means the better the oil protects the engine. The number does not indicate the actual viscosity in high and low temperature extremes of the oil. It represents the rate of viscosity change with temperature change.
The VI is measured by comparing the viscosity of the oil at 40°C (104°F) with its viscosity at 100°C (212°F). VI can provide insight into an oil’s ability to perform at high and low temperatures. Petroleum-based motor oils require the use of viscosity improvers to meet the low temperature requirements of SAE 0W, 5W or 10W and the high temperature requirements of SAE 30 or heavier oil.
Synthetic-based motor oils have a naturally high viscosity index and require less viscosity improver additive than petroleum oils.
As far as I am concerned, with todays quality synthetic oils there is no reason to worry about the "polymers". Look more for an oil that meets your and the OEM requirements and run with it. I think the 0w oils are great and run the AMSOIL Series 2000 0w-30 in my car and truck all year.
Maybe I am being ignorant but can one person please explain the reasoning for running a 0W oil if they live anywhere in the world excpet the tundra? The only place you would need an 0W oil is if you live somewhere very very cold. Why is a 0W oil needed at all when the 0W weight is only there unitl the engine is warm?
Give me one good reason other than Oil PSI please because I just dont get it.
Give me one good reason other than Oil PSI please because I just dont get it.
Because they didnt have any 5w40?
If it doesnt get that cold then why does it matter if its a 0,5 or 10w? The operating range viscosity on a 0w40 is thicker than the M1 5w30, if thats whats wanted then why does it matter?
If it doesnt get that cold then why does it matter if its a 0,5 or 10w? The operating range viscosity on a 0w40 is thicker than the M1 5w30, if thats whats wanted then why does it matter?
Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
Because they didnt have any 5w40?
Next question: Why run a 40 weight oil when 30 is recommended? 40 is a tad thick which makes it flow slower through the engines oil passages?
the M1 30 is thin according to everyone on here, so I went to GC 0w30, now I am running M1 0w40 and am going to have testing done on each, maybe one with 5w40 as well when they have it in stock, to see which works best in my car. I could only assume that with increased engine wear, a thicker oil will only help and the M1 is on the thin side of 40 from what I have read. Also, people have shown a higher 30 to low 40 weight oil is liked by the LS1. Although, I like to have my own results to verify.
Originally Posted by brad8266
Give me one good reason other than Oil PSI please because I just dont get it.
UOA's do wonders.....LS1's seem to love the European spec oils based solely on UOA's.
Go visit www.bobistheoilguy.com there is tons of great info as well as some VERY knowledgeable people (chemists, tribologists, etc)
I would think that due to the LS1's loose cold piston to bore clearances/slapping issues more people would run a thicker W weight oil to aid in cold starting wear and tear and to quiet it down on start up.
Now if the M1 40 is thin and runs more like a 30 weight than I understand using it.
Now if the M1 40 is thin and runs more like a 30 weight than I understand using it.
I run M1 0W-40 as reccomended by Patman. He said the M1 0W-40 is a lot more like a 5W-30 and that it's one of the best widely available oils for LS1s after multiple used oil tests.