0w-40
Originally Posted by TroubledWine3
I run M1 0W-40 as reccomended by Patman. He said the M1 0W-40 is a lot more like a 5W-30 and that it's one of the best widely available oils for LS1s after multiple used oil tests.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by brad8266
I see, well if M1 0W-40 is more like a normal oils 5W-30 then i understand it now. Thanks.
Also, it can be really hard to find German Castrol in some areas. M1 0w-40 is a good substitute for GC 5w-30.
So whats the best oil to use for hot conditions? I live in Tx and it gets pretty dam hot! When i bought my car it did not smoke atall under any conditions.It had 70000K now has 100000K I benn using Mobil1 5w30 or RP changed @ 2500M like clock work.Lately though under WOT it starts to smoke,sometimes under normal driving conditions.Any help anyone?
Mobil 1 or any synthetic oil is good past 5000 miles..I change mine at 5000 but I have had it analized and it still has plenty of life left in it at 5000..your wasting money by changing it at 2500..I use 0-40 M1 year round and I've got 130,000 hard miles on my car...no smoking no oil consumption..
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
Originally Posted by brad8266
WHAT?? 2 quarts or even 1 is a lot of oil to burn and you have other engine issues such as worn piston rings or worn out valve seals. My LS1 burns no oil at all in 3k miles and if it did it would be getting a complete rebuild.
Please dont ever say that burning 2 qts of oil is normal because it isnt, i dont care what the internet experts here tell you, its common sense. To burn oil it only has a few places to go, an oil leak to the ground, through the PCV, past the rings and into your chambers to be burned, or through your worn valve seals into the chamber to be burned. And if the PCV is pushing lots of oil through it then most likely the piston rings are worn out an allowing excessive blowby which increases crankcase pressure which is why more oil would get sucked through the PCV. Worn rings and oil through the PCV are like a double edged sword.
Please dont ever say that burning 2 qts of oil is normal because it isnt, i dont care what the internet experts here tell you, its common sense. To burn oil it only has a few places to go, an oil leak to the ground, through the PCV, past the rings and into your chambers to be burned, or through your worn valve seals into the chamber to be burned. And if the PCV is pushing lots of oil through it then most likely the piston rings are worn out an allowing excessive blowby which increases crankcase pressure which is why more oil would get sucked through the PCV. Worn rings and oil through the PCV are like a double edged sword.
It just depends on how much and also, on how you drive it.
I believe that 1 qrt between changes is NOT excessive for our motors. We ALL know that the MAJORITY of the factory LS1's burn some oil. Granted some of those were excessive (2+ qts every 3k miles), but with the RPM's that the LS1's like and with the way that some of us drive, I believe in my OPINION (which if I state it as fact these days I will get flamed) that some oil consumption is OK.
My .02
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
I think that almost every engine ever built burns some oil!
It just depends on how much and also, on how you drive it.
I believe that 1 qrt between changes is NOT excessive for our motors. We ALL know that the MAJORITY of the factory LS1's burn some oil. Granted some of those were excessive (2+ qts every 3k miles), but with the RPM's that the LS1's like and with the way that some of us drive, I believe in my OPINION (which if I state it as fact these days I will get flamed) that some oil consumption is OK.
My .02
It just depends on how much and also, on how you drive it.
I believe that 1 qrt between changes is NOT excessive for our motors. We ALL know that the MAJORITY of the factory LS1's burn some oil. Granted some of those were excessive (2+ qts every 3k miles), but with the RPM's that the LS1's like and with the way that some of us drive, I believe in my OPINION (which if I state it as fact these days I will get flamed) that some oil consumption is OK.
My .02
Well said .. as I stated before GM says that a quart every 1000 miles is with in there limints of acceptable oil consumption..I use 3/4 of quart to 1 quart every 5000 miles and to me that very acceptable..my car never used oil at all till I did the cam swap and valve train upgrades and bumped the rev limiter to 7000 rpm...
Last edited by slt200mph; Mar 31, 2007 at 03:07 PM.
Why don't people run 10W30 M1? I have immediate oil pressure when cold and don't need any higher than recommended specs when warm, when my new motor comes back I may switch to 5W30 but never 0W30, there's no need for it.
These light oils are made for super tight clearances normally found in foreign small displacement motors. Clearances stock ls1's just don't have...
These light oils are made for super tight clearances normally found in foreign small displacement motors. Clearances stock ls1's just don't have...
Originally Posted by Lythropus
Why don't people run 10W30 M1? I have immediate oil pressure when cold and don't need any higher than recommended specs when warm, when my new motor comes back I may switch to 5W30 but never 0W30, there's no need for it.
These light oils are made for super tight clearances normally found in foreign small displacement motors. Clearances stock ls1's just don't have...
These light oils are made for super tight clearances normally found in foreign small displacement motors. Clearances stock ls1's just don't have...
A 0w is not going to make that much difference. If you want to run a good oil like GC or a M1 40 weight, you have to get it in a 0w. My cold oil pressure with the GC and M1 0w40 are the same. If you look at the numbers, the viscosity doesnt change until you get in to extreme cold temperatures.
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If you guys want to get the low down on the oil PM Patman he is the resident guru on oil..this subject was beaten to death many time in the past..it is kind of old news..
0w40 M1 is the better quality of the basic over the shelf oils. It has one of the the most robust base and additives from what I remember. I'd choose it any day over 5w30 M1 which was watered down years ago. Rotella t6 5w40 is my second choice for over the counter stuff in many applications.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
I agree lol
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 53
Likes: 2
From: Central Tx
Necro post, 122k now, been running 0w40 since 2016 (well over 60k miles).
I switched because of low hot oil pressure with mobil 1 5w30. Ever since then and now, mobil 1 0w40 has kept me at 40psi idle and 60+ at WOT. 8 years and still going.
Edit: Probably more like 9 and a half years..
I switched because of low hot oil pressure with mobil 1 5w30. Ever since then and now, mobil 1 0w40 has kept me at 40psi idle and 60+ at WOT. 8 years and still going.
Edit: Probably more like 9 and a half years..
Since this thread was already dug up from the dead, twice over 17 years 😆, I figured I would add I am still running 0W40 M1 (Euro formula).
Oil analysis has looked great, reduced PCV oil consumption issues and good oil pressure throughout the entire range. I drive a lot less nowadays, but my last oil change at about 16 month still showed it had good life left in it (since it only had about 1000 miles on it).
A lot has changed since then, just not my oil 🤣
Oil analysis has looked great, reduced PCV oil consumption issues and good oil pressure throughout the entire range. I drive a lot less nowadays, but my last oil change at about 16 month still showed it had good life left in it (since it only had about 1000 miles on it).
A lot has changed since then, just not my oil 🤣
Last edited by WS6FirebirdTA00; Oct 4, 2024 at 10:47 AM.