C|alling Robin L. lsx questions?
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
C|alling Robin L. lsx questions? i know this guy getting an lsx block. should have it within a coupleweeks 
anyway. just a few questions. this said guy ran an ls2 last year. is the lsx based off an ls1 or 2? what will this guy have to change?
also, when this guy orderes pistions threw dimond, will they need any special info beside the regular cc of the head bore strock ect? the block is pretty much the same as the ls?
also how much more does the lsx weight?
any inside infor i can get for this guy would be great to make his build go easy
edit.
what the biggest bore size?
anyway. just a few questions. this said guy ran an ls2 last year. is the lsx based off an ls1 or 2? what will this guy have to change?
also, when this guy orderes pistions threw dimond, will they need any special info beside the regular cc of the head bore strock ect? the block is pretty much the same as the ls?
also how much more does the lsx weight?
any inside infor i can get for this guy would be great to make his build go easy
edit.
what the biggest bore size?
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From: Rockfield Kentucky
I almost missed your post! It's crazy here. LOL
The LSX , if you had to compare would be more like the LS2 in my opinion. It starts out with a 4" bore.
Stick with the LS2 Style front cover and cam sensor. I really don't remember if the block is able to accept the LS1 Style rear cam sensor. Not a big deal though.
Diamond knows what it takes to make any LS Series Piston. Talk to Mike Panetta. I work wth Mike on the pistons for my LSX Engines.
The deal with the LS and the longer strokes is the clearance for the counter weights and reluctor wheel.
I have not weighed the block yet (it's heavy) .
Max bore depends on what you want to run NA or power adder. The limit wll be dictated by the area between the bores. As you know the bore spacing is small and that area gets thin with the larger bores.
NA they say 4.250. My Nitrous engine will have a 4.185 bore. I would stay closer to 4.200 NA just to be safe.
Good Luck!
Robin
The LSX , if you had to compare would be more like the LS2 in my opinion. It starts out with a 4" bore.
Stick with the LS2 Style front cover and cam sensor. I really don't remember if the block is able to accept the LS1 Style rear cam sensor. Not a big deal though.
Diamond knows what it takes to make any LS Series Piston. Talk to Mike Panetta. I work wth Mike on the pistons for my LSX Engines.
The deal with the LS and the longer strokes is the clearance for the counter weights and reluctor wheel.
I have not weighed the block yet (it's heavy) .
Max bore depends on what you want to run NA or power adder. The limit wll be dictated by the area between the bores. As you know the bore spacing is small and that area gets thin with the larger bores.
NA they say 4.250. My Nitrous engine will have a 4.185 bore. I would stay closer to 4.200 NA just to be safe.
Good Luck!
Robin
For what it's worth: GM advertises the approximate finished weight at 225lbs.
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
great info.
sounds like im in good shape because i have all my last years ls2 stuff.
it is heavy, but hopefully the weight will be over taken by the extra power.
thanks alot for your info. "my buddy" isvery exited to be gettingthis motor
sounds like im in good shape because i have all my last years ls2 stuff.
it is heavy, but hopefully the weight will be over taken by the extra power.
thanks alot for your info. "my buddy" isvery exited to be gettingthis motor
The block will not work with a LS1 cam sensor, it only works with LS2. It is designed after the LS2 factory type block so the knock sensor location is LS2 also.
I think Jesel is coming up with a retail solution to those that want a belt drive with coil on plug.
Kurt
I think Jesel is coming up with a retail solution to those that want a belt drive with coil on plug.
Kurt
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Originally Posted by 427
The block will not work with a LS1 cam sensor, it only works with LS2. It is designed after the LS2 factory type block so the knock sensor location is LS2 also.
I think Jesel is coming up with a retail solution to those that want a belt drive with coil on plug.
Kurt
I think Jesel is coming up with a retail solution to those that want a belt drive with coil on plug.
Kurt
thanks for your info. im glad it is ls2 based because i have all ls2 covers ect, and my wiring harnes is set up for front mount cam sensor, and all should be good.
anyone interested in a ls2 block with one bad sleeve??
FormerVendor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,444
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From: WWW.SPEEDINC.COM
Originally Posted by 427
I think Jesel is coming up with a retail solution to those that want a belt drive with coil on plug.
Kurt
Kurt
Very interesting, any idea when that would be available?
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Brad, everything is going well here in Michigan. We are a little slow right now, but we hope the warm weather will help.
Jim, The Jesel parts should be available soon, if they are not we will be making some adapters since the block can't run the LS1 sensor!
Kurt
Jim, The Jesel parts should be available soon, if they are not we will be making some adapters since the block can't run the LS1 sensor!
Kurt
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Originally Posted by Robin L
I almost missed your post! It's crazy here. LOL
The LSX , if you had to compare would be more like the LS2 in my opinion. It starts out with a 4" bore.
Stick with the LS2 Style front cover and cam sensor. I really don't remember if the block is able to accept the LS1 Style rear cam sensor. Not a big deal though.
Diamond knows what it takes to make any LS Series Piston. Talk to Mike Panetta. I work wth Mike on the pistons for my LSX Engines.
The deal with the LS and the longer strokes is the clearance for the counter weights and reluctor wheel.
I have not weighed the block yet (it's heavy) .
Max bore depends on what you want to run NA or power adder. The limit wll be dictated by the area between the bores. As you know the bore spacing is small and that area gets thin with the larger bores.
NA they say 4.250. My Nitrous engine will have a 4.185 bore. I would stay closer to 4.200 NA just to be safe.
Good Luck!
Robin
The LSX , if you had to compare would be more like the LS2 in my opinion. It starts out with a 4" bore.
Stick with the LS2 Style front cover and cam sensor. I really don't remember if the block is able to accept the LS1 Style rear cam sensor. Not a big deal though.
Diamond knows what it takes to make any LS Series Piston. Talk to Mike Panetta. I work wth Mike on the pistons for my LSX Engines.
The deal with the LS and the longer strokes is the clearance for the counter weights and reluctor wheel.
I have not weighed the block yet (it's heavy) .
Max bore depends on what you want to run NA or power adder. The limit wll be dictated by the area between the bores. As you know the bore spacing is small and that area gets thin with the larger bores.
NA they say 4.250. My Nitrous engine will have a 4.185 bore. I would stay closer to 4.200 NA just to be safe.
Good Luck!
Robin
I also have a few questions.... I've searched all over the net and haven't found much.
- From the factory it is a 4'' bore?? I thought it was 4.125 bore from the factory?
- What machine work needs to be done before assembly? finish hone? If any machine work is necessary does the block need to be stress relieved prior to honing, etc.? I was under the impression that it was ready for assembly?
- Is there cooling channels between the cylinders? Will there be any cooling issues with light street use? EX.= Cruise nights or occasional street racing.
- I am converting over from a LS1. I know the block comes with a new cam retention plate, covers, etc. What else will I need to change? Sensors, wiring, oil pump, timing chain, etc?
Any info is appreciated! I will have this block soon and am trying to get a jump on the build.
Thanks,
Brian
Originally Posted by DOC OTIS
- From the factory it is a 4'' bore?? I thought it was 4.125 bore from the factory?
Originally Posted by DOC OTIS
- Is there cooling channels between the cylinders? Will there be any cooling issues with light street use? EX.= Cruise nights or occasional street racing.
That image says alot
Originally Posted by DOC OTIS
- I am converting over from a LS1. I know the block comes with a new cam retention plate, covers, etc. What else will I need to change? Sensors, wiring, oil pump, timing chain, etc?
Let me know if I can be of any help with your project!
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I'm running the MSD box and a carb. I guess I need to get the MSD box that is required for a LS2 also? Can you give me a price on the LS2 cover and on a LS2 gear set?
Last edited by DOC OTIS; Apr 11, 2007 at 10:25 AM.
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
and then either a new harness or at least the adapter harnesses to extend your cam sensor connection to the front of the block and the knock sensors to the side of the block. That's the tip of the iceburg and should get you moving in the right direction as far as needed parts!
Let me know if I can be of any help with your project![/QUOTE]
just a heads up doc, i figured this out last year when i went to the ls2, when extending your cam sensor wires you need to switch the outside 2 wires. i forget the colors, but im pretty sure it was the 2 out side wires need a swap from side to side.
good questions on the machine work needed. i will be boring mine out anyway, but what about the rest?
Let me know if I can be of any help with your project![/QUOTE]
just a heads up doc, i figured this out last year when i went to the ls2, when extending your cam sensor wires you need to switch the outside 2 wires. i forget the colors, but im pretty sure it was the 2 out side wires need a swap from side to side.
good questions on the machine work needed. i will be boring mine out anyway, but what about the rest?
I think I just need to buy the LS2 ignition box, so I shouldn't have to rewire anything? There is no harness on the car.
Originally I thought this was going to be a cheaper route than putting my Darton block back together? After the machine work, covers, sensors, gear set, etc. I'll have just as much or more in this LSX block. So much for saving a few $. I should already know that it never ends
I have Morel solid lifters. Now I'm wondering if I'm going to need to do any machine work to the lifter bores? Are the lifter bores the same as a LS1 block?
Originally I thought this was going to be a cheaper route than putting my Darton block back together? After the machine work, covers, sensors, gear set, etc. I'll have just as much or more in this LSX block. So much for saving a few $. I should already know that it never ends
I have Morel solid lifters. Now I'm wondering if I'm going to need to do any machine work to the lifter bores? Are the lifter bores the same as a LS1 block?
The aftermarket harness adapters already have the wire positions for the LS2/1 swap correct so no need to change them. As for the machining of the LSx block, until we have them here and see exactly what state they are in we won't know exactly what will be needed and what will not.
For MSD pricing, PM me so we don't derail this thread too badly
For MSD pricing, PM me so we don't derail this thread too badly
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Originally Posted by Matt @ SDPC
The aftermarket harness adapters already have the wire positions for the LS2/1 swap correct so no need to change them. As for the machining of the LSx block, until we have them here and see exactly what state they are in we won't know exactly what will be needed and what will not.
For MSD pricing, PM me so we don't derail this thread too badly
For MSD pricing, PM me so we don't derail this thread too badly
on the msd, i was looking at the new box for the efi. what one would i need to get? ls1 computer from a 98 with the new lsx block?
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
one more quick question, the ls1 crank shaft from eagle that i used in my ls2 last year will work correct? as long as my computer and crank sesor are ls1 still? this would also mean i need ls1 style msd box correct?
