Break in period/mail order tune/cam bucking:SAFE?
#1
Break in period/mail order tune/cam bucking:SAFE?
I just got my car up and running last Sunday. The combo I'm running is in my sig. I decided to run a custom pcm from PCMforLess until the break-in period is done. Once the break-in period is done I will be taking it to Ed Wright to do an all out dynotune. The custom pcm isn't dead on obviously, but it is definately drivable. However, I do run into some bucking/surging issues. I have to hold the A4 tranny in "2" if I am going under 35-40mph. This keeps the RPMs in the 2-2600 range. If I have it in "D" or "OD" under 40mph it bucks like crazy. By buck, imagine driving a 6-speed car 15mph in 5th gear. It kinda of wants to jump/shake a bit. If I put it in drive under 30 and give it gas and accelerate straight up to 45, there's no bucking.
So, here's my question. Is it safe to have it drive during the break-in period at 2000-2600rpms a good 40% of the miles? Is it unsafe to keep it in drive and have the rpms lower but experience the cam surge/bucking? The bucking feels like it can't be too good for the tranny as well...
Opinions and advise are more than welcome!
So, here's my question. Is it safe to have it drive during the break-in period at 2000-2600rpms a good 40% of the miles? Is it unsafe to keep it in drive and have the rpms lower but experience the cam surge/bucking? The bucking feels like it can't be too good for the tranny as well...
Opinions and advise are more than welcome!
#2
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I wouldn't drive it like that. Do you have a datalogger to record? Sounds like combination of A4 tuning (converter lockup mph too low) and running too rich or lean. How's start up and idle?
#3
Start up and idle are completely fine. It has died only once, but that was the 2nd morning I had it. The car has about 30 miles on the new motor and the outside temperature was around 30* F. I do not have a datalogger either. As far as running rich or lean, it definately smell rich.
Should I just go and have it tuned on a dyno or should I still wait until the motor has been fully broken in?
Should I just go and have it tuned on a dyno or should I still wait until the motor has been fully broken in?
#7
Double check all your plug wires are on nice and tight and that none are touching the the headers or anything like that. I often see the bucking issue on a car with a slight misfire under load. It could also need the part throttle shift points moved up a bit as it might be shifting into a cam surge range.
As far as lean/rich, GM is more in control of the part throttle fueling with the closed loop system (I get it close for cold startup with the injector constants and then once it drops into closed loop it does the fine adjusments) so it should be neither. If this was the case you would have codes for rich or lean conditions.
Running it with the revs in the 2K to 2500 range will work good to seat the rings and break it all in.
Quik, did you ever get that oil burning motor running right I've heard from numerous Pittsburgh guys that it smokes of oil on the track, you have had multiple people try to tune in including yourself and it still won't turn a good time. It has been a few months since I have heard anything, so maybe you have it worked out by now. I offered to meet up with you and help you out, but the minute you acted like you seem to notoriously do I figured it would be a waste of my time.
As far as lean/rich, GM is more in control of the part throttle fueling with the closed loop system (I get it close for cold startup with the injector constants and then once it drops into closed loop it does the fine adjusments) so it should be neither. If this was the case you would have codes for rich or lean conditions.
Running it with the revs in the 2K to 2500 range will work good to seat the rings and break it all in.
Quik, did you ever get that oil burning motor running right I've heard from numerous Pittsburgh guys that it smokes of oil on the track, you have had multiple people try to tune in including yourself and it still won't turn a good time. It has been a few months since I have heard anything, so maybe you have it worked out by now. I offered to meet up with you and help you out, but the minute you acted like you seem to notoriously do I figured it would be a waste of my time.
Last edited by PCMFORLESS; 04-11-2007 at 08:03 AM.
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#8
PCMFORLESS has always been great with LT1's and equally good with LS1's. I don't see why somebody would say that they aren't a good tuner unless they had an axe to grind. Nailing a mailorder tune is almost impossible and is never going to be as good as a custom dyno tune. It should be used mainly to get you to the tuner without washing out the rings or melting pistons.
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I used PCM for less for my LT1 tune and he nailed it. I had it dynoed and they were asking who tune it. They were stunned when I told them it was a mail order. I had him do a ls1 STS tune for me and we couldn't get it right so he gave me a partial refund. Great stand up guy to do business with. Would recommend him to anyone on a budget.
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Originally Posted by PCMFORLESS
Double check all your plug wires are on nice and tight and that none are touching the the headers or anything like that. I often see the bucking issue on a car with a slight misfire under load. It could also need the part throttle shift points moved up a bit as it might be shifting into a cam surge range.
As far as lean/rich, GM is more in control of the part throttle fueling with the closed loop system (I get it close for cold startup with the injector constants and then once it drops into closed loop it does the fine adjusments) so it should be neither. If this was the case you would have codes for rich or lean conditions.
Running it with the revs in the 2K to 2500 range will work good to seat the rings and break it all in.
Quik, did you ever get that oil burning motor running right I've heard from numerous Pittsburgh guys that it smokes of oil on the track, you have had multiple people try to tune in including yourself and it still won't turn a good time. It has been a few months since I have heard anything, so maybe you have it worked out by now. I offered to meet up with you and help you out, but the minute you acted like you seem to notoriously do I figured it would be a waste of my time.
As far as lean/rich, GM is more in control of the part throttle fueling with the closed loop system (I get it close for cold startup with the injector constants and then once it drops into closed loop it does the fine adjusments) so it should be neither. If this was the case you would have codes for rich or lean conditions.
Running it with the revs in the 2K to 2500 range will work good to seat the rings and break it all in.
Quik, did you ever get that oil burning motor running right I've heard from numerous Pittsburgh guys that it smokes of oil on the track, you have had multiple people try to tune in including yourself and it still won't turn a good time. It has been a few months since I have heard anything, so maybe you have it worked out by now. I offered to meet up with you and help you out, but the minute you acted like you seem to notoriously do I figured it would be a waste of my time.
and you and your sources would also know that an oil issue doesnt reflect to a tune...again thanks and have a nice day