No oil pressure in New engine...Help please
No oil pressure in New engine...Help please Hi,
Started up my new fresh LS2 transplant today. This is a LS2/L92/L76 replacement for a stock LS1.
I have a 7 qt .Canton race pan plumbed with 2 remote lines to a 1.5qt oil filter, and a 2 qt. Accusump tank plumbed directly into block. Melling oil pump is new. I think all the lines are going in the right direction. Total about 12 feet of AN-10 braided SS oil lines in all.
I primed the oil pan with 10 qts. of oil, knowing that the lines, filter, and Accusump piston were dry. Ran the car for about 30sec: no oil pressure registering on dash or accusump gauge. Did this twice. Oil seeping from Accusump line at the accusump valve, from (loose connection), so I know oil is flowing.
Questions:
How long should it take to build oil pressure in a fresh engine?
Did I put too much oil in and put it in "Lock"? Is this an air lock with so much braided hose?
Which is the oil pressure sender, and what does it look like on the LS2, so I can check if its installed or hooked up?
What do you think is happening here?
Thanks.
Started up my new fresh LS2 transplant today. This is a LS2/L92/L76 replacement for a stock LS1.
I have a 7 qt .Canton race pan plumbed with 2 remote lines to a 1.5qt oil filter, and a 2 qt. Accusump tank plumbed directly into block. Melling oil pump is new. I think all the lines are going in the right direction. Total about 12 feet of AN-10 braided SS oil lines in all.
I primed the oil pan with 10 qts. of oil, knowing that the lines, filter, and Accusump piston were dry. Ran the car for about 30sec: no oil pressure registering on dash or accusump gauge. Did this twice. Oil seeping from Accusump line at the accusump valve, from (loose connection), so I know oil is flowing.
Questions:
How long should it take to build oil pressure in a fresh engine?
Did I put too much oil in and put it in "Lock"? Is this an air lock with so much braided hose?
Which is the oil pressure sender, and what does it look like on the LS2, so I can check if its installed or hooked up?
What do you think is happening here?
Thanks.
30 sec 2x with no oil pressure is really bad. dont know anything about dry sumps though. how are you getting the oil to the gallery to feed the mains and cam? where the freeze plug goes in the front under the timming cover or did yo tap into the block somewhere.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by jtl12419
The crank is literally sitting sitting in oil so I think I'm fine. The oil level is halfway up the dipstick.
Now, answer my questions.
Now, answer my questions.
Alright, probably only 15sec at most.
No... Accusump is still considered part of the wetsump system. Its only an additional reservoir under pressure.
Why would my oil pump not be moving oil? Is is possible to install a oil pump incorrectly?
Where is the oil pressure sender on the LS2, so I can check the connection to the gauge.
No... Accusump is still considered part of the wetsump system. Its only an additional reservoir under pressure.
Why would my oil pump not be moving oil? Is is possible to install a oil pump incorrectly?
Where is the oil pressure sender on the LS2, so I can check the connection to the gauge.
You did put the rubber gasket/Oring on the oil pickup tube correct? Without it... you will have issues.
Are you using a mechanical or electrical style oil pressure guage? I would install a mechanical one at least to confirm oil pressure.
Your engine is built with break in lube... so your bearings should be fine.
Are you using a mechanical or electrical style oil pressure guage? I would install a mechanical one at least to confirm oil pressure.
Your engine is built with break in lube... so your bearings should be fine.
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The sender is right behind the intake manifold, it stands straight up like a roll of coins.
No oil psi is bad. There are plugs by the rear engine cover that must be installed for pressurize, i hope you got those in. Also the oil pump pickup tube oring must be installed and seated correctly.
Its not possible to install the pump wrong too since it only goes on the crank one way.
No oil psi is bad. There are plugs by the rear engine cover that must be installed for pressurize, i hope you got those in. Also the oil pump pickup tube oring must be installed and seated correctly.
Its not possible to install the pump wrong too since it only goes on the crank one way.
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I have an LS7 dry sump with a lot of lines between the engine and tank. It took a very long time for pressure to build the first time cranking it with the starter (coils disconnected). Not apples to apples but a lot of big diameter lines take a lot of oil volume to fill before pressure builds the first time.
Theres 2 plugs in the oil galley, one front, one rear, that everyone seems to leave out.
BTW, why didnt you charge the accusump, and use it to prime the motor? Thats what its there for.
And even if the crank is "sitting" in oil, doesnt mean the bearings are gonna be lubed when its slingin around.
BTW, why didnt you charge the accusump, and use it to prime the motor? Thats what its there for.
And even if the crank is "sitting" in oil, doesnt mean the bearings are gonna be lubed when its slingin around.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Jul 26, 2007 at 07:12 PM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 2
From: Portland Oregon
When this motor was built, did you install the small (5/8) freeze plug in front of block, drivers side, in the oil galley, and the plastic barbell in the back of the block, same galley. Is the oil pump pickup too low in the oil pan, sitting on the bottom of the pan.
With a fully charged accusump, I can get about 25lbs of pressure before I start the motor.
30 seconds total, your bearings are toast. Been there, had the pickup on the bottom.
With a fully charged accusump, I can get about 25lbs of pressure before I start the motor.
30 seconds total, your bearings are toast. Been there, had the pickup on the bottom.
Originally Posted by pcf_mark
I have an LS7 dry sump with a lot of lines between the engine and tank. It took a very long time for pressure to build the first time cranking it with the starter (coils disconnected). Not apples to apples but a lot of big diameter lines take a lot of oil volume to fill before pressure builds the first time.
What's a "long time"?
Originally Posted by racecar
When this motor was built, did you install the small (5/8) freeze plug in front of block, drivers side, in the oil galley, and the plastic barbell in the back of the block, same galley. Is the oil pump pickup too low in the oil pan, sitting on the bottom of the pan.
With a fully charged accusump, I can get about 25lbs of pressure before I start the motor.
30 seconds total, your bearings are toast. Been there, had the pickup on the bottom.
With a fully charged accusump, I can get about 25lbs of pressure before I start the motor.
30 seconds total, your bearings are toast. Been there, had the pickup on the bottom.
There was a long black plastic right angle device that came off the back of the top of the LS1 block-- Is this what you are referring to as the "barbell"
Thanks
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 2
From: Portland Oregon
Barbell picture Picture of the barbell, and the oil pump O ring.
)The barbell is in the drivers side main oil galley, in the back of the block, you have to have the motor out and remove the rear cover to see it.
)The freeze plug (not shown) is behind the front cover, right in front of the oil galley. Without the freeze plug, the oil from the pump will squirt out the front of the block, inside the front cover.
)The O ring needs to be on the oil pump pickup tube, and not pinched.
)If you used ARP main cap studs, the tall nuts may space your oil pump baffle/pickup down too low.
)The barbell is in the drivers side main oil galley, in the back of the block, you have to have the motor out and remove the rear cover to see it.
)The freeze plug (not shown) is behind the front cover, right in front of the oil galley. Without the freeze plug, the oil from the pump will squirt out the front of the block, inside the front cover.
)The O ring needs to be on the oil pump pickup tube, and not pinched.
)If you used ARP main cap studs, the tall nuts may space your oil pump baffle/pickup down too low.
I put a used oil pickup tube o-ring back in my LS1 the first time I worked on it a couple of years ago. Had NO oil pressure. I had to take the front cover off and drop the oil pan in order to put the new o-ring in. That O-Ring must be NEW!
Sorry for the late, been out of town ... thanks MUCH for the replys.
Did not put the engine together myself. The old saying goes: If you want it right, do it yourself!!!!
The plug and barbell are definitely NOT in. Anything else, that is commonly missed when I take this engine out to fix this issue.
Can someone send me a picture of the pressure sender as it sits on the engine? Thanks.
PS, I did not precharge the accusump thinking that the engine would on start up, in retrospect, I should have
Did not put the engine together myself. The old saying goes: If you want it right, do it yourself!!!!
The plug and barbell are definitely NOT in.
Anything else, that is commonly missed when I take this engine out to fix this issue.Can someone send me a picture of the pressure sender as it sits on the engine? Thanks.
PS, I did not precharge the accusump thinking that the engine would on start up, in retrospect, I should have
Another thing to check/verify is the recover seal. When I built my LQ4 motor I reused the LS1 rear cover seal. The two seal are not the same it caused an oil pressure problem for me.
Keith
Keith
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 2
From: Portland Oregon
If that freeze plug is not in there, your pump may be working fine, but all of the oil is pumping right back out the front of the block. Without the barbell, it might make pressure, but it will not go to the filter. The barbell blocks the path so the oil has to go down to the filter, and back up. While you have this motor out, you can replace the bearings. Check the cam bearings also. Clearance .003 max.
