JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You should not even be looking at unleaded fuel. You now have a race engine being built, you need to be running a good leaded fuel.


Do what you want, put 100 unleaded in there and have fun running 10 degrees of timing in the summer heat. I have already been down this road, and tried to get away with a 105 unleaded fuel which worked o.k. when it was 60 degrees out, but as soon as it got hot forget about it.

Do what you want/what your builder tells you to, and when you're running a leaded fuel that's at least 112/114 octane, and a #7 plug don't be surprised. You're spending 10 grand on a motor I assume, don't try to save a couple bucks a gallon on fuel, it's just stupid.

Also, if you are planning on running unleaded fuel so you can run cats, forget it they will hollow themselves at the power level you are headed for real quick. And as far as o2 sensors go.... you should be tuning the new race setup in open loop so you're not using any of them anyway so again.... don't be cheap with the fuel and just runa good leaded race fuel. Better too much, then not enough.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

see with a 112 octain, and tr6 if its hot out, the car will just run fat, your not going to burn it up on a hot day. cold day, with low octain and hot plug it will melt the plug first if anything is going to happen. on an NA set up, you can feel it nose over befor you hurt it 99% of the time.
go with 7's and see what it does, but i know with 6's my car runs faster, cleaner, idles better more resonsive, just over all beter.

good luck

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

im a firm believer, if you have the money to build a race car with race motor and have race parts, you have the $$ to run RACE GAS!
100 octain will do it with your timming around 18-20* and down about 50-80 rwhp. lol
my buddy ate his 408 up from the inside. shook the bearings right out of it running 104 pump gas with 13-1 and 26*
good luck

racer7088

Jeremy,

There is no actual number TR7 I think but rather a plug like the TR6 but just in 7 or 8 heat range. I think the OEM heads are .708 reach 14mm plugs and a 5/8 hex drive on them. The race type plugs from Autolite and NGK have shorter ground straps that don't pick up as much heat and won't fall off if they over heat. I'll try to find you a number but either of those brands are great in an NGK 7 or so heat range.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

brad who ate their motor up doing that? PM me if needed.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

here you go.

all the numbers you need.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/456380-spark-plug-reference-chart.html

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

my buddy derik. he ran it on the street beet the hell out of it with pump gas and mad timming, thing would run for 30 seconds after he shut it off. lol
it ran for a while, then beet the bearings out of it from the detination.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Erik, are these the ones you're referring to according to what was posted above:

Nitrous (two steps colder)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK BR7EF (stock number 3346); NGK TR7IX (stock number 3690); Autolite AR94; Denso IT22 (stock number 5327)

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Consider breaking it in on Rotella oil. It's a deisel oil that still contains ZDP. THe EPA made them take it out of gasoline engine oil. It gives you more scuff protection during break in. Valvoline Racing (Not For Street) oil also has ZDP in it.

That's what SDPC recommended on my motor. I used it and my 403 burns no oil at all nor does it smoke a lick.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It is the br7ef plug.

1fstGM

iTrader: (13)

I've melted BR7EF's with 28* of timing with a 14:1 comp motor. I never changed the plugs though or really checked them for that matter. After reading this thread the rounding of the tips is probably a very good tool I could have used. I know that whatever plug you get make sure it has the tappered seat. I am also interested in this thread. TTT.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Exactly what I am warning this guy about. Start off cold and work your way up. 13 to 1 is nothing to laugh at.. and you have to take alot more precautions with that and higher compression then you do with 11.5 to 1 stuff like most people are used to playing with.

With your said experience, you are probably one of the only people that doesn't wonder why I run a #8 plug and 116 fuel with my 13.5 to 1 setup.

racer7088

Yep you are always better off with a colder plug as the worst that can happen is it gets dirty! You run too hot and you can hurt stuff fast if you don't know what your doing.

racer7088

Nitrous (two and a half steps colder)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-8 (stock number 7317);

Jeramy you could even run these to start out even safer but I think the 7s should work fine also. Just make sure at tuning time you stay safe on AF and timing and creep up on the tune. You should be fine.

racer7088

Thats a really nice spark plug guide over there in the NOS section! That's what LS1Tech is all about!

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

I don't know if this will help or not but these guys should know their fuel.
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_01_fuels.html#leaded
FWIW I am at 14.8:1 and run C12 w/ TR6s

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Erik, if I used these:

Nitrous (two and a half steps colder)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-8 (stock number 7317)

What would I set the gap at?

Or even this one:

Nitrous (two steps colder)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK BR7EF (stock number 3346)

as they don't list the gap.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

i run my 8's and 9's at about 35 tho

racer7088

For NA use you can go .045 or so. See what the gap is as delivered. You don't want to bend the ground stap a whole lot.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The 8's are sent pretty tight, I run mine at .035 and I have to tweak them a touch to get thegapper tool in there.

I think they come gapped probaby .020 or so, at least that's what it seems like on average. You will definately have to open them up a little.