when did warranties become "industry standard" on something thats purpose built for abuse? did i miss something? i've never heard of a warranty on aftermarket motors.

 

Complete 416 L92 longblock + port matched L76 was roughly $10k. I was on the way to the dyno when my differential got really bad (was trying to get launch tech down for the new motor night before). M6 and should have dyno #'s in the next week or two when I get the repaired diff.

 

I know we all have opinions, but this is just ignorance. Show me a shop that can fund R&D, afford to pay a good amount of employees, and crank out vehicles of this caliber and not charge this amount?

Yes they have a good warranty, and yes you pay for it. But like anything else, there is clauses to this warranty as well, read the fine print.

As for warranty's on bone stock crate motors, i believe they are void when modified?

 

You really have to read some of his other posts to understand that statements like those are the norm from him. He is very opinionated, and I usually don't agree with anything he has to say. That's life on the internet I suppose...

 

I know that myself and LME are competitors but I totally understand LME's warranty since they are only an engine building facility and not a full service shop. They do not have any control over what people will do to their engines nor do I for that matter and that makes people stay a little less crazy. I have actually heard people saying they can do anything they want to an engine because the factory or "shop" will "have to warranty it" and then they are shocked when even the dealer tells them to go to hell. A shop has more control and does all the rest of the work and tuning so they can offer a much longer warranty since they know everything was done by them. We have done hundreds of engines for shops and yet have only had few problems in all those years and most of those on power adder cars.

The truth is that nothing that increases power any great amount also increases reliability! This is not a hard concept to understand but still some people don't get it. You can't have a daily driver with a 200 shot on it and think it will live forever! Here in Houston there's people that want a driver and want to run a 400 shot on it every weekend or so! People that build real NOS engines buy 16 pistons at a time and change them out every time they find one going downhill.

Anyway after that rant I can still say a decent built NA stroker will last almost forever if everythings really done right and will not consume lots of oil or anything or smoke of course. When I was inside the shop I used to be in we got to see nearly half our engines dynoed right there in front of us and we never had problems with smoking or using tons of oil etc? We did fix several engines that had these problems but it was always easy to see what was wrong and after we were through there was no more problems 99 per cent of the time. There were always the few weird ones where people had their own breather or baffles though where they were getting oil all over the place.

 

Are you joking????

All of the shops I listed, and I assume you have heard of some of them , offer warrantees on AFTERMARKET, purpose built for abuse and racing, all out stroker motors, big hp and tq engines, bad bitches to put it simply.

Where have you been?

And it's only "Industry Standard" to those shops that have confidence in their builds, otherwise they can't keep up with the "Industry".

And so this doesn't go off on an internet tangent AGAIN....NORMALLY ASPIRATED engines ONLY.



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Thats cool. A shop here in Lauderdale is building them like a production line. He does his own porting (L92 heads 365cfm@.650) and he ports his own L76 intakes.

His 416's are doing ~530 RWHP (M6) with tiny 230ish cams. Pretty nice set-up for a nice price.

Little less than $10,000 complete.


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Not opinion...fact.
The list is endless for shops that make more power than LPE will ever dream of making and their prices are half. I researched all of them, I know. Can't post them because they are not sponsors.

Thats right....YOU PAY FOR THAT WARRANTY...and pay dearly. Its in the price.

This holds true with any shop building crate engines.

I know a few people down here that have LPE set-ups on their Vettes. They paid the most ridiculous, stupid, dumbass prices for just 550 hp twin-turbo set-ups. Like $50,000 and higher. Now you have to pay upwards of $100,000 for their highest hp TT set-ups, thats hilarious. Yes, they have a warranty from LPE, but thats because if/when it blows they already paid for the set-up twice. FACT.

I asked them back in 2001 if they would build me a 500 RWHP N/A stroker for my WS6. They point blank said, "NO....we can't do that and still make it anywhere near streetable". And if they did, it would cost $35,000 So I called Agostino and they built me a 436 stroker that is the perfect daily driver with ~500 RWHP and they did it for $12,000...and I'm still driving it 94,000+ miles later. LPE's prices are pathetic, but they have the name to suck in the rich people that will pay the ridiculous prices. Proof of this: How many LPE TT set-ups do members on this board have????? How many people on this board have LPE ANYTHING????? Tic-toc-tic-toc.............not many. WHY?????

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Nitrous is another issue altogether. If anyone expects to spray a 200 shot on a daily driver and have the engine last for 5 years, they are nuts. Even though my friend in West palm has had a 300 progressive shot on his 422 iron engine for 3 years and its still perfect.

Besides burning some oil, mine is over 94,000 miles and it runs like the day I had it first tuned. So I'd have to agree, they can last forever, or at least a LONG *** time.


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Very opinionated But I also state facts as they are.


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Quickin - Start a new thread about this issue if you are so "opinionated" about it. Your discussion has very little to do with what I8COBRA is trying to ask here, which I am trying to find out too.

What is involved in getting an LS3 into a C5?

 

I was looking for pretty much the same thing as you. Good power but a low maintenance engine that would last a long time in my "Gentleman's Cruiser". I use my car to commute on nice days and take on trips whenever I want. I commute in DC rush hour traffic with the 6 speed with no problems. THe car actually drives better than stock.

I did a SDPC 403 with WCCH L92's and a small cam. I make 500+ with great low end torque. The engine burns no oil and doesn't smoke a lick. With Comp 921 springs I wont have to worry about that for a while. THe Caddy Racing lifters make the valve train whisper quiet.

When the FAST intake come out for the L92's I'll have that on there quick and re-dyno with the other changes I've done since the last dyno. I should end up around 550RWHP and still very reliable and drivable.

My $.02

 

Give Tony Mamo a call, he built me one hell of an engine in your HP range that's got close to if not stock characteristics.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...hlight=403+roy

Roy

 

Found my answer. Couple differences since its going into a Y-body instead of a F-body but most is accurate.




https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-external-engine/786004-l92-ls3-into-99-02-f-body.html

You will need:
*Replace L92 truck intake with L76 or LS3 car intake
*LS2/LS3/L76 fuel rail (there the same)
*MAP sensor from your LS1
*40# LS7 injectors or bigger
-If you use LS1 style you'll need a spacer kit from Katech, if you use the LS7 style injectors you'll need the injector harness adapters from Ford Racing
-90mm Cable style throttle body
-SLP throttle cable bracket (unless you get holley 90mm TB)
-Pull the crank and remove the 58x reluctor wheel for a 24x reluctor wheel pn 12559353 (go ahead and order some new rod bolts or upgrade to Katech ones)
-New head bolts
-Crank sensor from your LS1
-early LS2 2x cam sprocket pn 12576407 (your timing chain and crank sprocket are the same as the LS2 which is plenty stout enough)
-early LS2 Timing cover w/2x cam sensor 12596023
*LS2 Valley Cover
*LS2 Lifter Retainer Trays 12595365
*LS2/LS7 lifters
-Knock sensors from your LS1
-Drill & Tap block 10mm x 1.5 for knock sensors same as LS2 swap
-Knock sensor extension harness (katech or racetronix)
-MAP sensor extension harness (katech or racetronix)
-Cam sensor extension harness (katech or racetronix)
*-2001 or later LS1, LS6, or LS2 std. volume oil pump (I don't recommend L92 hi vol oil pump with f-body pan)
-Oil pan and pickup tube from your LS1
-New oil pan gasket
-New pickup tube o-ring
-Your dipstick and tube
-Balancer from your LS1
-New balancer bolt
-Front engine accessories and brackets from your LS1
-Water pump from your LS1
-New water pump gaskets
-Reprogram PCM
-New motor mounts while your there

* Denotes items not needed in LS3 swap

**While you're in there I recommed upgrading to a bigger cam, and better springs, retainers, and pushrods.

***Not all L92's had DOD or VVT. If Yours does not have these you don't need LS2 Valley cover, Lifters, or Lifter Trays.


Good Luck!

 

My car pulls like a freight train... anyone in DFW wanna buy a 408 from him.... pay for the gas and meet me for a ride!

 

Well hell, I guess I should run out and get a new Chrysler product then. They must build a bad *** product since they back it with a lifetime powertrain warranty.

 

Sent ya a lengthy PM. Let me know if we can do something for you

 

I want to run a 500shot!

 

We're talking "aftermarket" built engines. I thought that was so clear.



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Whats clear to me is that a motor not assembled correctly, will usually fail in short order. A 2 yr 24000 mile warranty on a s/b or even a l/b that would be installed by the end user would be absurd. I can guarantee, if the shops providing these warranties are selling them to the general public and still providing these warranties, they either have a strong long list of exclusions or will not be in business long. As mentioned previously, for a shop doing the install, setup, and tune it would be easier to do, but then again unless they lock the tune, whats to stop the end user from making a mistake while playing with the tune and leaning it out and destroying the motor, or drowning it in fuel and wiping out the rings and pistons. Hell I did this this crap for years and 99.9% of the comebacks were due to either operator or install error (I can't even recall the number of times a motor was brought back for a warranty claim with nuts, wingnuts, and valve cover bolts inbedded into the tops of pistons). I built stock replacement rebuilds for a mass production rebuilder and we offered a 90 day warranty, yet in the shop next door where they were installed we offered 2 year warranties, but even then only if all of the components that the installer recommended being replaced were (i.e. water pumps, fan clutches, radiators, carbs, etc.). As mentioned though these were stock motors going into mom and pops family cars and trucks, not high perf motors going into a weekend warriors car so he can take it to the track, wring it out, miss a 3-4 shift, end up in 2nd blow the motor up and bring it back.