538- GM part # 12602544
f(ls1) pipe,eng cool air bl(incls 539-542)(if prior to 2002 vehicle, must us 2 caps p/n 12602540)

 

Any thoughts on if the setup flowed too much. I was wondering if you don't want to keep the flow low so it only gets the gases(vapors) and small amount of coolant flows. That way the primary coolant flow is not altered?
Those small hardlines can't be more than .125 - 1/8 inside diameter, Since it handles has all 4 ports in the original design. I figured thats pretty low flow.
Ed

 

It just needs to bleed the air out of the heads so there are no hot spots. Flow rate doesn't matter.

 

4 into 1 tube = GM part# 12557538 Y-body '97-'99 LS1

bolts = GM part# 11514008 (without stud-head)

 

Would there be any problems in connecting the passenger side rear to the passenger side front and then go halfway across the front of the intake and stop. And then connect the drivers side rear to the drivers side front and then go halfway across the front to meet the other end that is coming from the passenger side and put a T there to run to the radiator? Kinda like two separate systems...one for the passenger side, and one for the drivers side that meet in the middle? I like the look of symmetry under the hood, which this would accomplish.

But it wouldn't account for any crossover from driver's to passenger side.......would that be an issue?

 

Thats what I use... #538

 

So using this setup on a 2001 that has the LS6 intake already, wouldn't I now have to grind off the ribs on my LS6 intake to accomodate this crossover system? That's not a problem, I just want to make sure I'm understanding all of this.

 

Below is a post I made on this thread 3 years ago, all this hyperbole and speculation is ridiculous Read the post I made then, it's very clear as to how this issue can be resolved. Any further discussion is absurd.

11-14-2007, 11:16 PM #6
bigdsz
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We just put a HK Racing 408 in my Camaro and I was concerned about the rear steam vents because two of my friends recently wiped out #7 and I didn't want to take any unnecessary risks.

Anyway I used some of my old LS1 steamtubes and cut the tube so that there was about 1 1/2" sticking out from the flange that is bolted to the head. Then I used a SS tee and ran a 5/16" id line up to the front cross over and connceted it with a tee which I ran to the radiator.

It is absolutely amazing how much coolant those little hoses flow. I truly believe that these tubes also bleed off steam-air pockets that could cause hot spots. I sure have alot more peace of mind.

FWIW my last project on my 408 was installing an engine oil cooler. It was a bitch but necessary since my oil temp was getting up to 270-275. Now most of the time I stay below 200 unless I romp on it.
__________________
'09 Corvette
'04 Corvette-Sold
'00 Z28-HK Racing 408, Callies Dragonslayer Crank & Rods, Wiseco Pistons, AS Stg 2 5.3L heads, Comp XER 244/248, FAST 90 intake, NW TB, Lingenfelter 100mm MAF, Racetronixs PNP, SVO 30#, March pulley, SPEC Stg 4+, McLeod bellhousing, Fast Toys lid, Jet Hot headers ORP, Hooker cat back, Pro 5.0, Denny's Nitrous DS, Norris LS1 Edit, Strange 9" center sec./Detroit soft locker/3.50 gears/Moser housing, Hoosier QTP's, UMI K member, A arms & reloc brac.

 

Yes. To use the LS1 tube assembly with the LS6 intake manifold you need to trim some ribs. Mount the tube, use some white shoe polish (or paint) and set the intake down while it's still wet. Makes it easy to see where to grind. Remove the clips that hold the knock sensor wires and be careful mounting the IM so you don't pinch the wires.

HTH

 

The motors usually have a 2 degree down angle to them so all you need on most street setups are the front ports.

 

Prolly right. Must have been GM's thinking too when the Z06 came out in '01 when they went to the 3-piece set-up. I did some more checking and the only part number that is now available from GM is the one Jontall posted up and I think it is the "Z06" style (not the one-piece "spider" type).

There's been a total of 10 part number changes over the years. Crazy.

Those custom plugs with the threaded holes from Wegner Automotive are a good way for guys to go that still want to run lines to the rear of the heads.

 

Kurt Urban sells a nice package that is cheaper than doing it with wegner automotive once you get the distribution blocks. It includes the 4 blocks, distribution block, hose and fittings if I remember correctly.

 

i made this

 

TomZ that is a nice set up. I like the black hoses. I used them on my fuel lines, with black fittings as well. I thought about doing the coolent lines as well, but with the wiring harness and N2O lines running to the plate it gets alittle crowded. I still like the 4 port GM system for an easy and clean install.

 

thanks i couldnt use the stock stuff because my heads had been drill and taped already so i could not get a good seal.

 

Still trying to understand the logic of reducing flow in the head by adding this rear tubing.

 

The highest point on the head is where the steam vents hook up. The bleed lines keep air pockets from forming causing the rear cylinders combustion chamber to be insulated from direct water flow. In drag race engines it is common to run water as the coolant (as the rules require), this can boil in the heads on heat soak after running and cause bubbles to collect in the rear cylinders. The lines clear this air by bleeding as the factory did on the original engines. The flow over the heads would be reduced by the area of a single -4 hose, this has not shown any problems in any engines I have dealt with.

Kurt

 

Looks AWESOME Tom. Nice job!! That is what I was imagining when I was typing up my previous post.

 

I have Kurts kit......Just received it, very very nice.....

 

Hey Guys-

New to LS motors.

Where does that single water line get plumbed to?

Thanks.