coolant overflow tank on a C6 vette ( or "should be" on any other car for that matter)

That way the cycling fluid will be just that...fluid.. as it goes back into the radiator/cooling system as needed.

 

Thread revival time here.

Thought I'd post this to clarify some of the part numbers that were listed in this thread that I discovered were incorrect (not bashing anyone here, just trying to help clarify). After researching this until my eyeballs fell out, here's what I found:

12604711 is the two port setup from a truck engine. From what I can tell, it is the replacement for the 4 to 1 setups that used to come on the trucks. It has its outlet pipe in a different location than the LS1 pieces do. This one comes out of the driver's side head connection. It also needs the rear block offs. From pics I've seen from another member, they did make 4 to 1 truck setups, and they also had their outlet connection on the driver's side head connection too. As far as I know, the 4 to 1 for trucks has been discontinued. Here's the drawing for a two port truck piece, tag# 307:

12604711



12602544 is the two port setup from the 5.7 cars. From reading its description, I'm taking it that it is the replacement for the old style 4 to 1 setup and requires two plugs. It has its outlet connection offset from the middle of the crossover pipe between the two head connections. The drawing shows it drawn as a 4 to 1, but when you read the description, it is listed as a two port setup that needs to rear blocks. It doesn't mention any superceded numbers either, but I'm thinking the 4 to 1 is no longer made as a buyable part. If you search out LS6 cars, the picture shows a two port setup in the drawing, and the PN is 12602544. If you search out a 98 and up LS1, its drawn as a 4 to 1 but the PN is listed the same as the LS6 stuff, which is 12602544. See here in a 98 drawing. The part is tag# 538. Drawn as 4 to 1, but listed as two port:

12602544




The only one I cannot locate, is a piece someone else mentioned on here. The number is 12557538. I do not know for sure if it is even a coolant line. And if it is a coolant line, I don't know if its a truck or LS1 setup. But from all the drawings I looked at and PNs I've searched out, its my guess that they do not make the old style 4 to 1 pieces anymore. Even when you search for a coolant crossover from a 97 up car, it comes up with the same drawing as 538 above. I have not found a drawing with a 4 to 1 part number listed, so I'm guessing they are not available anymore.

Anyways, 12604711 (two port truck) and 12602544 (two port LS1) are readily available at GM parts stores, Summit, eBay, etc. If you want a 4 to 1, you gotta go used.

If you need the little oblong washer/o-ring setups, they are PN 12551933 which are about $6 each.

Hope this helps someone sooner or later.

 

This is the picture for 12605716
It's circled in yellow.

http://m.modmotortech.com/forums/sho....php?t=1342636

 

So there we have it, yet another one. 1205716 is a two port setup with the outlet coming straight up from the passenger side. The other PN listed in the linked thread 12602540 is the plug for the rear holes.

Thanks for the info.

 

No..it does not go to the overflow tank on F-Body's. It gets connected to the lower port on the radiator fill neck and goes directly BACK into the radiator. If you connect that line to the overflow tank.......you will fill that tank and then overheat.

At least on the F-Body..............

.

 

This is the first I have heard of this issue. Is this only a problem with strip cars that can only use water and therefore would generate more steam or could this be an issue on a build street motor?

 

Having both the front and REAR tubes operating will just help cooling. I've had my rear tubes blocked on my 427ci for 9+ years and 160,000+ miles....no issues whatsoever........just a 100% street car though.

I'm wondering if you took the single out tube in the front that goes over to the radiator....and ran it to an aftermarket stacked type cooler and mounted it somewhere, then ran the out line from that cooler to the normal radiator port, if that would help drop coolant temps over all. You could put a pretty decent sized cooler mounted to the back of the fans.........

.

 

A water collection kit is ideal something similar to the Kurt Urban setup here. There is another thread on here about some aussies checking their engines on a dyno, turning the intake around backwards to show that it is not intake manifold design that is causing the problematic cylinders, then going to a collection block or water/vapor collection system solves the problem.

There is a reason they did it on the LT1s. I believe that better reliability and possibly performance can be obtained by using them. I have installed numerous ones on quite a few builds. IMO anything supercharged or turbo should use it, and really if you can justify the cost, any other street engine. It eliminates the possibility of steam building up at the rear caps or air pockets being trapped. And more even distribution of water means more ability to keep a constant temp from cyl to cyl (as far as coolant is concerned).
Plus with a few diff systems, you can run either 3 an or 4 an line, helping out the "high flow" characteristic the OP was looking for.

Even though most of this was covered in the previous posts in this thread, a quick recap never hurts for those just looking at the last page of this thread.

 

To a high point on the radaitor or a "T" in the upper radaitor hose...Some also tab and plump it into the top of the water pump