So what is needed to take say a long block LS7 and put it into an LS1 F-body?

Someone correct me with a thread that has this already if there is one, I couldn't find one with a search.

I know the heads/cam/ect are all different. However, with a built long block what else can be carried over into the engine from the ls1?

Do you need new balancer pully, valley cover, windage tray, ect?

 

The LS7 is dry sump, has anyone used a wet sump on one or is that possible with the LS7?

 

I know people have put an LS7 in the F-body, come on guys?

 

You are going to have problems with the crank signal. I am pretty sure it is different than the LS1. I am not even sure that the PCM's are compatible. Plus, like the previous poster said, the LS7 is set up for dry sump. It would be much simpler, and cheaper probably, to build one yourself with an Eagle LS1 crank in it.

-Geoff

 

Got a wet sump in my 69. Used an Eagle crank, 54x, Speartech harness, Canton pan.

 

katech did this last year put a 24x reluctor wheel on the crank and used the stock tuned ls1 computer and used the dry sump setup put the oil tank where the battery is. they also used a tubular k member but said they never tried to fit it in there with the stock k so who knows if the pan will clear. i doubt it. the also had to use a mcleod shatter shield and it had to be modified to get the tranny to bolt up and the pilot bearing in the ls7 crank needs to be switched to an ls1.

 

You're probably better off with an LS7-based engine built from scratch, because you can tailor the shortblock/internals to match your car's electronics and frame configuration.

Unless you specifically need (i.e.: roadrace or autocross) the dry sump system, it's cheaper (and no less reliable when done properly) to go with a wet sump system for the rationale mentioned in the previous paragraph.

I just did a similar swap (LS6 > LS7), so these suggestions are based on very recent practical experience, from both the financial and mechanical perspectives.

 

Oh yeah the block would be built from scratch. Just debating between an LS7 and an LSX.

For simplicity I assume the LSX is the better bet?

 

I like the LS7, I'm partial, all aluminum small block 427. pretty tough. But, a LSx 454 or bigger with boost, wow.

 

on any block thats not a LS1, you will need to relocate the Cam position sensor, and the knock sensors. You need a 24x reluctor on the crank to use an LS1 ECM. Other than that, basic fitment stuff like oil pan ( use the OE replacement for your car).

The LS7 is over rated. You can do way better for less.

 

over rated, wow.

 

You can build an LS7 longblock up for cheaper than the GM LS7 crate. And it'll make more power and will be easier to install. By LS7 lonblock... I mean the block, heads, and intake will all be LS7.

It's no different than swapping an LS2 based 402 into the car. 24X reluctor wheel with the harness extensions. The oil pan bolts right up.

LSX is good if you want to run lots of nitrous or boost. The LS7 is better for an NA engine going into a car concerned with weight and balance - road racers for example. Otherwise, it's about the same price and for a street car, it'd probably not be that noticeable of a difference in terms of handling or braking. Probably not even that big of a difference in power either, though the LSX will support more cubes and has the potential to make more power.

 

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Racing/ls7_camaro.jsp

 

Which sponsors other than Texas-speed have one available. Looks like they want 11K for a long block. That seems reasonable for a full package. Ayone else know a good sponsor? I am looking to do a swap and want some feedback from members here.

 

Okay heres what is needed. If you order a short block 427 then theres quite few things that will not interchange unless you start with an ls2. You will need the lifter trays, timing chain, front cover, the knock sensor extensions, map extension, valley pan, and have the relutor wheel changed over to a 24x tooth versus the 58x tooth. Yes the 427 can be made into a regular oil pump setup but I would recommend that use a high pressure. The stock computer will work fine just have to have a way to tune it in efi live or hp tuners both work well. I went with the L92/l76 setup at first and it made over 510 at the wheels but I want more so I am in the process of finishing up my ported LS7 top end should be done tomarrow just waiting on new fuel rail. If you need some help feel free to pm me and I can drop you a call and let you know anything that Ive gone through its really quite easy.

 

I'm in the process of doing this now, but I'm converting an LT1 car so I had a few more things to buy( OK, a lot more!). This project may get derailed and my resleaved LS7 454 may find its way into a C6 Z06 instead. For now here is whats needed ( not a comprehensive list)

-front drive accessories should bolt on from your current LS1
-you will need a custom ATi LS7 (F-body accessory) balancer for $550 , thye have done this a few times and have the specs, call and ask to speak with Rick.
-aftermarket dry-sump tank/ines..peterson is a good option. ATS has a complete system minus the lines...

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...unt2=681113839

They also have a dry sump pan....

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...unt2=681113839

but I like this pan the best.....

http://www.drysump.com/ls7.htm


-Ls7 oil pump ( no one will sell you a high performance version of teh stocker even though MTi has one made for them)
-LS7 fornt cover
-LS2/LS7 cam and crank sensors
-Ls2/LS7 extension harness for the above sensors

Racetronix has these the cheapest.....

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-LS2-KSRH.html

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-LS2-CSAH.html

You will laso have to upgrade your fuel injector harness to support the LS7 style injector....


Comp cams has them so does lingenfelter and Katech....

http://www.katechengines.com/street_...tail.php?id=21

If you keep the dry sump you can use the stock crank but will need all the other LS7 parts that go with it ( front cover, oil pump, timing chain). I went with a custom 4.125" stroke callies balanced to my Ti rods and katech pistons...

Wet sump will allow you to use any LS1 crank/oiling system like the proven SLP set-up and your stock LS1 F-body pan. Hope all this helps....

Lastly, If you do a custom LS7 dry-sump build-up I spent $8,900 for a Darton resleaved LS7 block, GM Ti rods (rebused by katech), custom 4.185 Katech pistons/rings, and a custom callies 4.125" stroke crank. I also used ARP fasteners on everthing. If you dont want or have to have the dry sump, stay with a resleaved LS2 427 or greater it will be MUCH cheaper. just my $.02

-=MIke

 

LSX + BIG turbo = Last motor you'll ever buy.

 

Good info. I was expecting to purchase most of that for the LSX conversion. I know you still need the extensions and such for that engine as well.

My goal is a strong NA motor, so no turbo for now. Just something that can lay down 550-600 at the wheels through a 9".

 

that should be a pretty easy thing to do with the M6 the 9in will soak up some but not to much. I have a 99 SS hugger orange M6 as well that has all my stuff in it the fully built cammed, ported and tuned LS7, the G-force T56, carbon fiber driveshaft, tex clutch and flywheel, and a moser 12 bolt with 4.56 gears. Woohoo

 

So what would you guys choose a 454LSX or LS7 427? So much good stuff...