iron block vs. aluminum
Weight is the only explanation. The strength argument isn't really valid here, it isn't in 99% of street builds.
it looks like i'm going with an iron block....found one for next to nothing...i know its heavier...but its just a street car for me...just wanted to see if there was a clear reason why not to go one way or the other.
I picked up a dealer takeout for piston slap. Got the complete long block for $300. Just put in a tubular K with it and the weight is pretty much a wash.
-Geoff
p.s. What is up with the edit on F T W without spaces? It shows up like this --> ***
The tubular K and A arms together might make up half the weight difference between the iron and aluminum.... But then you can run the same K and A arms with the Al. block and be even lighter! 
The only time I would choose the iron is if the vehicle were a dedicated track car running 8s or faster. And then it would be an LSX, not a 4 bolter.
F T W is blanked out because it is overused and played the f**k out.
The only time I would choose the iron is if the vehicle were a dedicated track car running 8s or faster. And then it would be an LSX, not a 4 bolter.
F T W is blanked out because it is overused and played the f**k out.
Iron block F T W. No clearancing necessary for a 4" stroke! And you can run the LS6 valley cover without modification too!
I picked up a dealer takeout for piston slap. Got the complete long block for $300. Just put in a tubular K with it and the weight is pretty much a wash.
-Geoff
p.s. What is up with the edit on F T W without spaces? It shows up like this --> ***
I picked up a dealer takeout for piston slap. Got the complete long block for $300. Just put in a tubular K with it and the weight is pretty much a wash.
-Geoff
p.s. What is up with the edit on F T W without spaces? It shows up like this --> ***
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Verdad Gallardo Iron block F T W. No clearancing necessary for a 4" stroke! And you can run the LS6 valley cover without modification too!
I picked up a dealer takeout for piston slap. Got the complete long block for $300. Just put in a tubular K with it and the weight is pretty much a wash.
-Geoff
p.s. What is up with the edit on F T W without spaces? It shows up like this --> ***
I picked up a dealer takeout for piston slap. Got the complete long block for $300. Just put in a tubular K with it and the weight is pretty much a wash.
-Geoff
p.s. What is up with the edit on F T W without spaces? It shows up like this --> ***
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 286
Likes: 1
From: Arlington, TX
The iron block will be cheaper to buy and cheaper in the long run. The Aluminum blocks will be lighter and take extra work on install/wiring. When I was looking at doing a motor it was about 600-800 less to do an iron block. As far as strength of the block its not an issue imo.
If you decide to go forced induction or max out the spray, you would want to go with a iron block. lets say you have an iron block with 8.5:1 compression vs an aluminum block 8.5:1 compression. you would be able to put a 20lb. pulley on the iron block but only about 16 safely on the aluminum. Call a pro shop a find out the facts. thats my opinion.
Iron block F T W. No clearancing necessary for a 4" stroke! And you can run the LS6 valley cover without modification too
