Help! 408 has no oil pressure
#21
9 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What I haven't seen mentioned yet is to remove all the plugs from the motor so there is no compression load on the bearings or wrist pins. The engine will also spin faster this way which may help get the oil pump to prime if lack of prime is the problem. I have always been able to get oil pressure this way before firing the engine up the first time. FWIW - the oil pump should always be assembled with assembly lube or light grease to insure that it primes quickly.
I agree with that. Good idea to center the pump on the crank. Should be .002 all around snout. Make sure bleed off spring is good. If you shim it, you will see more pressure.
![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
#22
FormerVendor
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mpls., MN
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would have to add that I have yet to see a need for an HV pump or a need to raise the pressure in an LSx motor..... even our Super Stock engines run std pumps with very thin oil and only make 45-50 PSI at 8500+ through the lights and the bearings from these engines look beautiful.
#23
9 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would have to add that I have yet to see a need for an HV pump or a need to raise the pressure in an LSx motor..... even our Super Stock engines run std pumps with very thin oil and only make 45-50 PSI at 8500+ through the lights and the bearings from these engines look beautiful.
![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
#25
Banned
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
PS. Aside from priming the pump, and assuring the plug and dumbell are in place, one of the best things you can do is pull the pressure sender, and trickle oil in with a small hose. Be patient and keep putting oil in til it wont take any more. We have a set up to pressurize the system through that port, before we ever crank em over. But, just pouring it in very slowly should get the galleys full, and basically prime the system.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; 12-28-2007 at 09:09 PM.
#26
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: California
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, it has a double roller in it. It has a shimmed LS2 pump in it.
Because of the holiday's there has been no work on it besides checking the front plug for oil. It was dry so it will require removal of the pump.
I am having it towed from the installers place to a mechanic near me so he can take all the accessories off and pull the pump. I don't want to have the motor pulled because it would cost me for the r&r again.
Because of the holiday's there has been no work on it besides checking the front plug for oil. It was dry so it will require removal of the pump.
I am having it towed from the installers place to a mechanic near me so he can take all the accessories off and pull the pump. I don't want to have the motor pulled because it would cost me for the r&r again.
#30
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: California
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am not that mechanically inclined plus I don't have the tools to do it myself.
The engine builder suggested priming the pump by adding oil through the front plug and cranking the engine counter clock wise manually before pulling all the accessories off and pulling the pump.
My question at this point is does cranking it any further weather manually or using the starter cause any damage to the cylinder walls? If after we pump some oil into the engine we put the fuel relay back in and try starting it again or start it for an additional 10-15 seconds will it harm anything?
The engine builder suggested priming the pump by adding oil through the front plug and cranking the engine counter clock wise manually before pulling all the accessories off and pulling the pump.
My question at this point is does cranking it any further weather manually or using the starter cause any damage to the cylinder walls? If after we pump some oil into the engine we put the fuel relay back in and try starting it again or start it for an additional 10-15 seconds will it harm anything?
#32
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would make sure before you start taking **** apart! The sending unit could have went bad, or wire, or whatever. You never know? Plus, being a new engine, its gonna take a few seconds to get it primed up. Like the other guys said, as much as 20-30 seconds sometimes. Pull the ECM fuse, and spin that bitch!
#35
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: California
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update:
I had the truck towed to a mechanic friend of mine that lives 2 miles from my house and he thinks that the oil pick-up tube is not on correctly. Does the "O" ring from the 5.3 truck engine match correctly to the LS2 oil pump?
I had the truck towed to a mechanic friend of mine that lives 2 miles from my house and he thinks that the oil pick-up tube is not on correctly. Does the "O" ring from the 5.3 truck engine match correctly to the LS2 oil pump?
Last edited by SRT10KLLR; 01-09-2008 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Oil pump is a LS2 not LS6
#36
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I dont post much but maybe I can help. If its a new block there is a very small about 6 mm freeze oil galley plug behind timing cover that is a pressure fit, might have not got installed due to the fact that it doesnt come on new blocks. You have to order it separately. Now ask builder if this might have been overlooked