Dry sump HP gains
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Dry sump HP gains What kind of HP gains are average for converting an LS1 style motor over to a 5 stage dry sump setup(1 pressure, 4 scavenge) with a 4 sectioned oil pan?
Last edited by Phil99vette; Jan 15, 2008 at 03:15 PM.
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I wouldn't expect enough experience for anything like "average" gains.
Lower pressure in the crank case means less losses, but the pump also consumes power. I wouldn't expect significant gains.
I have a four stage pump in my C5. Installing this is a pain. Installing a five stage pump is going to be even more of a pain, since there is no place left for the engine mount. Even with a four stage pump you need a fabricated mount.
Till
Lower pressure in the crank case means less losses, but the pump also consumes power. I wouldn't expect significant gains.
I have a four stage pump in my C5. Installing this is a pain. Installing a five stage pump is going to be even more of a pain, since there is no place left for the engine mount. Even with a four stage pump you need a fabricated mount.
Till
I can't say how much hp you will pick up,never just changed oiling systems,but i can say that if your running it on a turbo car the ring life will triple due to the rings staying seated better and not fluttering in the cylinders
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As I understand it, vacuum in the crankcase helps with ring seal plus reduces windage significantly. Before you design anything, check out TS's 454 LSX dyno thread - they picked up less than 5hp with a pump pulling 18" of vacuum. The windows in the main webs almost kill the windage problem completely, supposedly without compromising strength enough for the engineers to worry about. Unless you're doing a lot of road racing and worrying about pan slosh or plan to go FI, I'd spend that money elsewhere and leave the dry sumps to the guys that need 'em. Just my .02
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The power gain is questionable if you do a back to back. But, you have to remember, if you are doing a dry sump build, you can use the lower tension rings to reduce friction, which is going to be your biggest gain. You can't just put low tension rings in a wet sump, it will use quite a bit of oil.
The biggest reason to go dry sump is for racing purposes. You will always have a supply of oil to the pump in high G situations. Plus, the oil tank acts as a cooler, so you can maintain better temps.
The biggest reason to go dry sump is for racing purposes. You will always have a supply of oil to the pump in high G situations. Plus, the oil tank acts as a cooler, so you can maintain better temps.
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As what was posted in Schwanke's responce...The lower oil temp and the lack of oil starvation under high G loads in corners are the main bennifits of the dry sump system..another plus is with the shallow dry sump pan you can mount the engine a little lower in the car and keep the center or gravity as low as possible to help handling in road racing applications ... HP gaines will be minimal.
I dont see the point on your build..If you have the money than great.I think from following your project though just a nice pan with a custom pickup and a external oil pump that feeds the turbo aswell would work great.LME can make you a hole kit for right around $1700 with everything..
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I built my car to run a local drag radial class and last year they said no dry sumps. This year they opened up the rules because a few guys lost motors with the wet sump style system. I initally wanted to do a dry sump because of the advantages at higher RPMs and ability to control oil under a hard launch or stopping the car. I've got a local sponsor and a shop that are working together to get a dry sump done and the cost is pretty reasonable.
What would $1700 get me from LME? Is that a wet sump system or a dry?
What would $1700 get me from LME? Is that a wet sump system or a dry?
I say put on the drysump,its good insurance on a motor that you spend tens of thousands of dollars on.Most people want to skimp on the oiling system.
put a drysump on my turbo motor 3 years ago,have made over 2500 hp with it and never had any bearing problems.
put a drysump on my turbo motor 3 years ago,have made over 2500 hp with it and never had any bearing problems.
ive always thought dry sumps were more of a reliability than power gains. if thats the case i would do it simply for that reason.
Again,like i said before if you have the money than go for it.No doubt the drysump is better.I think they are over rated on a drag car when compared to a well designed wet sump though.Something has to be dun about the oiling system no doubt though.The $1700 would get you a custom pan,with a pickup at the back ,a external oil pump and bracket(belt drivin),remote filter mount etc. etc...Cal Bryan @ LME ..The setup i mentioned is the same one on LMR's black turbo car thats running mid 7's now on stock suspension..
I built my car to run a local drag radial class and last year they said no dry sumps. This year they opened up the rules because a few guys lost motors with the wet sump style system. I initally wanted to do a dry sump because of the advantages at higher RPMs and ability to control oil under a hard launch or stopping the car. I've got a local sponsor and a shop that are working together to get a dry sump done and the cost is pretty reasonable.
What would $1700 get me from LME? Is that a wet sump system or a dry?
What would $1700 get me from LME? Is that a wet sump system or a dry?
