427's can't handle boost?
I'm starting to think just stroking the stock LS1 would be a good idea.
LSX would be amazing. But they're sold out everywhere, and in another thread I read theres a LONG waiting list.
LSX would be amazing. But they're sold out everywhere, and in another thread I read theres a LONG waiting list.
I'm runnning a 427 in my T/A. 427 LS7 bought from SDPC with 9.5 :1 CR. But before I put some FI, there's a lot of supporting stuff I have to do first. I would've done the supporting stuff first but engine blew and I needed a new one toget hter running. A lttle over 9K so far on the engine swap.
You said you were going to wait for a bit and keep it stock for a year or two. If your thinking about 800+whp, LSX is the way to go. Why not spend the extra couple hundred for the assurance of the best block on the market?
How large of a bore can I use with a blower, is the right question.
" LS1 MID has two ranges of bores. 4.125" to 4.160" and 4.175" to 4.200". The sleeves are 5.800" long to handle strokes to 4.250".
...
You can also do a dry sleeved LS2 or LS7 block. These are less expensive to do if you already have a block. The bore size range on these dry sleeves is 4.125" to 4.190" max stroke same as the MID at 4.025". The max. bore would be for NA. I would keep it to 4.150" for nitrous or blower. - Stephan Demirjian, Race Engine Development"
" LS1 MID has two ranges of bores. 4.125" to 4.160" and 4.175" to 4.200". The sleeves are 5.800" long to handle strokes to 4.250".
...
You can also do a dry sleeved LS2 or LS7 block. These are less expensive to do if you already have a block. The bore size range on these dry sleeves is 4.125" to 4.190" max stroke same as the MID at 4.025". The max. bore would be for NA. I would keep it to 4.150" for nitrous or blower. - Stephan Demirjian, Race Engine Development"
The ls1 can be bored and stroked to achieve 427 ci. By doing so you weeken the block, piston, and you run your piston ringland to close to the top of the piston.
People have done it and were fine without running FI, or nitrous.
There's many blocks you can go with.
If you want to go with a high boost application, go with smaller cubes, and an iron block.
The ls7 can take some boost. If you're talkin 15-20 psi, no way. There's alot of variables in your question.
As for the ls7 needing forged pistons, i'm pretty sure they already have forged pistons from the factory.
People have done it and were fine without running FI, or nitrous.
There's many blocks you can go with.
If you want to go with a high boost application, go with smaller cubes, and an iron block.
The ls7 can take some boost. If you're talkin 15-20 psi, no way. There's alot of variables in your question.
As for the ls7 needing forged pistons, i'm pretty sure they already have forged pistons from the factory.
LS7 has titanium rods and cast hyper-eutectic pistons(spelling). That is the only thing holding the motor back from serious modification to an extent. I know the crank is just as strong if not stronger than the stock LS1 crank. There has been alot of people that have taken the stock LS1 crank to 800ish without it flexing, but that is still pushing it.
If you're throwing a power adder at anything bored out as much as the LS7 block (or more), have it resleeved or get ready for a cracked block. R.E.D.'s been seein this happening for some time.
A forged 370 iron shortblock is only $2800 for TSP, I've guys in the FI section push these to 900-1000rwhp. Maybe you should do some research their at their setups before you go dropping money into an engine.
Vicinity. Stroking is not that simple either. You can't just "stick in" a new rotating assembly. You will have to have the block rehoned for the new pistons, and have the rotating assembly balanced. Most machine shops will prefer to do a complete rebuild on your stock short block, and for that cost you might as well just buy a prebuilt ls3 from a sponser =====>>
LS7 has titanium rods and cast hyper-eutectic pistons(spelling). That is the only thing holding the motor back from serious modification to an extent. I know the crank is just as strong if not stronger than the stock LS1 crank. There has been alot of people that have taken the stock LS1 crank to 800ish without it flexing, but that is still pushing it.
With that piston, i wouldn't throw any boost at it. http://www.corvettemuseum.com/specs/2006/LS7.shtml
So the way i look at it, I trust the experts that are not into selling sleeves or resleeving blocks as their main buisness. Katech for one, has been beating the hell out of a few LS7 block equipped cars some with N20, some with prochargers they have seen 800+ on the stock block with ZERO issues. If thats not enough for you then lets talk to LPE they have been twin turboing the stock block just adding forged pistons, and better rotating assembly and they are making more horsepower than Katech with again ZERO problems, and they offer a warrenty. It will all come down too your tune and how solid everything else is. Detonation will cause any block liner to eventually crack or piston to fail. Make sure your tune and parts are good and your block should be just fine. Now I will agree the stock pistons are not good for alot of power but they too are doing ok in 600+ rwhp cars. The rods while titanium are not good for high HP either but theres nothing saying they arent fine for a mild build up. Now I know that some rumors have been going around about liners cracking even under stock power but heres the thing to remember there are 2 problems that I have heard of that are plaguing the LS7. First the rockers, which I have heard is very minimal, the other is the springs failing and dropping a valve. The dropped valve too me is what is causing the liner problem because when it drops in the cylinder it causes broken pistons an chewed up heads. If you introduce a valve into an engine even one only cruising at 3000 rpms or less the piston coming up cant just bypass it something has to give. This will more than likely be the liners and the piston, thats my take on it and being how frequent I have heard of the valve dropping that to me would also show why it seems the liners are looking like they are failing frequently, when in all reality they are just fine, but being subjected to such a catastrophy they cant be expected to live through that.
Just my 2 cents worth take it how you will but I have a 600+ LS7 motor with 150 shot on top, which I drive daily. I tore the motor down just a few weeks ago after many HARD runs and 6000+ miles and the liners look brand new. True I added forged internals but this still speaks highly of the block cause there are not stress fractures and trust me I looked hard especially after all this hype.
The C6 Z06 cars aren't hurting the LS7's because the stock tune is VERY conservative. I could see someone installing an LS7 in an F-body and having issues with the tune, which would end up hurting the engine. I (de)tuned my Z06 to run on the bottle and I haven't had the first issue. After 10,500 miles it's running better than ever.
Acually outlaw the LS7 tune, while it is a bit conservative, is pretty close considering even in my f-bod I have max timing at 26.5 degrees for some reason thats where the LS7 likes to be for peak power, on timing at least. True they do run it pretty rich in the stock tune as I have a file right here, Im looking at. But when tuning it, mine liked a mid 12 afr for max power where my old 408 liked a higher 13.0 just something funny.
WhosNXT I agree rumors fly and it has all been beaten to death everyone is going to believe what they want. lol by the way I lOVE your Z pretty pretty
WhosNXT I agree rumors fly and it has all been beaten to death everyone is going to believe what they want. lol by the way I lOVE your Z pretty pretty
Sounds like you should just buy Katech's 427 SS that is for sale. Does not have TT but has run 10's and has lots of nice suspension & drive train parts. If you add up what you will really have to spend putting one of these cars together, their price does not seem that high.



