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A new, mild cam I need to get for my 402

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Old 04-28-2008, 10:57 PM
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Default A new, mild cam I need to get for my 402

Well guys, I was originally going to do this:


I ordered a brand new 402 shortblock from Texas speed... and I was going to re use my Torquer v3 cam and PRC 5.3 stage 2.5 heads (which came from my stock LS1 346 with 90,000 mils on it) which had only 150 miles on them(the heads anc cam).... the 402, however was brand new...

So I finally found out why my 346, that originally had the torquer 3 and 5.3 heads on it seized up... One of my caddy lifters, which was brand new, and had been soaked in oil. had failed and dumped some short dowel looking rod into my motor, which had caused my engine to not run....

The lifter piece had circulated into my engine and destroyed my reluctor wheel, my camshaft lobe, some nicks on my rocker arm, and so forth...

So the caddy lifters suck ***! Im gonna have a word with GM, brand new lifters that were properly installed should not fail!!!


Basically now I need help with the selection of thw following...

New lifters that will NOT fail on my after correct installation and soaking in oil... and a new camshaft... I wanna go streetable and something thatll have off idle power... Im a M6 with Aluminum FW and Moser 12 bolt, 3.73s

I do want to make over 500rwhp, but I know its not gonna happen, unless I probably get a fast 92/92 and maybe some kooks headers...

as of now I have a LS6 manifold and ceramic coated pacesetters, ORY andd magnaflow catback....

I made 432 rwhp before with the H/C Tv3 LS1, so I do wanna pick up significant power over that, but I am fine with under 500rwhp, as long as I have a good increase of power throughout all RPMs.... or if not that a very streetable, car. It is a Daily driver thatll see city, highway, long drives, few times a year track days/road racing and at leats once a month 5 - 7 passes at the dragstrip...

So basically if someone can spec me a cam for a good , off idle power car and to make as much power as I can, with these manners, plus some good lifters... lastly I am willing to go fast 92/92 if 500rwhp or near that can be obtained with such a specified , good daily driver cam....

My mods are

402 shortblock, -10cc pistons, Eagle crank and rods with ARP bolts , hardened pushrods, ported LS6 oil pump, YT rockers but there has been small nicks on them from metal circulating in my old engine so I may go back to Harland sharp rockers, all suspension, Rebuilt T-56. LS7 clutch with aluminum FW, which will soon be replaced with McLeod twin disc or SPEC 3+ Moser 12 bolt, aluminum Driveshaft PST, 25% underdrive pulley(powerbond) now with ARP bolt. Pacesetter LT headers, magnaflow catback, ORY, Lid, home ported stock TB, 85mm MAF, LS6 manifold..

car is 2002 Z28...

I think that is all... please chime in. thanks

Last edited by LSGunZ28; 04-29-2008 at 01:01 PM.
Old 04-29-2008, 04:58 AM
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I need immediate assistance please!

#1 my older thread doesnt apply to this because I changed my goals and my situation has differed...
Old 04-29-2008, 05:51 PM
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Bump!!
Old 04-29-2008, 06:34 PM
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I've got a Comp XER 244/248 .612/.615 112+2. Any bigger , the way I understand it, and over lap and DCR can become a problem. Patrick G is great on specing out cams.

500 RWHP with a Fast and your TSP heads should be doable, no problem. Check the link below for my dyno.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/911927-56-rwhp-gain-induction-change.html
Old 04-29-2008, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
I've got a Comp XER 244/248 .612/.615 112+2. Any bigger , the way I understand it, and over lap and DCR can become a problem. Patrick G is great on specing out cams.

500 RWHP with a Fast and your TSP heads should be doable, no problem. Check the link below for my dyno.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911927
He speced me a cam before, but now a couple of things changed. Im less concerned about the peak HP numbers I make, than I was at the time he speced me the cam and also I now may go with a FAST 92/92, if its going to give me a difference...
Old 04-30-2008, 04:16 AM
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I would use the FAST 92/92 setup if it were my car. There is a HP/TQ gain over your LS6 intake. For a mild built engine as a DD I would use a 238/246, .622"/.622", 113*+ 1* cam from Ed @ www.thehpfactory.com (Or just click the banner in my sig!). I would also highly recommend him for tuning your car as well. Here is a link to my cousins C5 Vette that he finished for us, https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...403+our+latest . This car is my cousins DD and has a bigger cam than what I recommended for your build, plus alot less overlap @.050" duration.
Old 04-30-2008, 05:34 AM
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Default 402 Cam

I have a 402 6 speed 3.42 gears, B 4 this mustang freak tried to tune it the first time, it popped 450 @ the wheels. Then he tinkered with it a little and it did 482. Though it ran like **** !

Afterwards had a speed dentisy tune done and it's wild !

231/237 .598/.595 115 LSA +2 , Fast 90/90, cheap ported 317 heads, Dynatech 1 3/4 headers, Flowmaster catback (open chamber :-) )

For Drive ability, I would not go bigger. Just personal preference.
Even this cam has some Bucking, and little annoying idles issues . However it picks up nicely in 6th gear @ 60 mph with no trouble. Really Wakes Up on a hard WOT pull.

Now I went S60 3.73's and even pulls better....
Old 04-30-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
I've got a Comp XER 244/248 .612/.615 112+2. Any bigger , the way I understand it, and over lap and DCR can become a problem. Patrick G is great on specing out cams.

500 RWHP with a Fast and your TSP heads should be doable, no problem. Check the link below for my dyno.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911927
I have this cam in my 408 with basicaly the same set-up as yours and I made 505/468. I drive this car every day in crappy south Florida traffic with out any problems. Get a good tune and you will be very happy.

Check out the sticky about the 400+ ci set-ups it has all kinds of combos and reviews I'm sure you can find some useful info in there.
Old 04-30-2008, 03:03 PM
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something like a 231 237 sounds good. or maaybe even a 234 240 cam or something like that, but I dont wanna start getting past the 240s, its gonna sound like itll be a peaky cam if the duration gets in those numbers again...
Old 04-30-2008, 07:08 PM
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is it gonna be impossible to break the 475rwhp barrier if I keep in my LS6 manifold?
Old 04-30-2008, 10:03 PM
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Question > 475 rwhp ?

That's why I went with the FAST 90 . I think that gave me + - 20 hp up top ?
But at the time $ 1200 intake and TB.....

I have a sound clip of my 231/237 cam.
Old 05-01-2008, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by davidws6
That's why I went with the FAST 90 . I think that gave me + - 20 hp up top ?
But at the time $ 1200 intake and TB.....

I have a sound clip of my 231/237 cam.
I know, I just dont know if I can afford it now...

I was gonna keep old heads and cam to put on my 402, now I need a new cam... but a fast 92/92 at the moment is killing my budget, since I just spent 5k on a new 402 shortblock
Old 05-01-2008, 03:46 PM
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Default Fast 90

I know what you mean, the FAST is a pretty good chunk of change...

I started out with the LS6 intake then switched over to the FAST. Not too much of a PITA changing it in the car..

Do a little searching to check out various dyno graphs and they'll tell the story about the torque and HP curve of some cams on this site.

Good luck !
Old 05-01-2008, 03:55 PM
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On your caddy lifters, did yo make sure and clean them real well in solvent, and roll the roller by hand until they freed up?
Old 05-01-2008, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
On your caddy lifters, did yo make sure and clean them real well in solvent, and roll the roller by hand until they freed up?
No, why the hell didnt anyone mention this to me?


and thats bullshit, Im gonna ask these guys for a refund. There was no instructions or nothing.
Old 05-01-2008, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
On your caddy lifters, did yo make sure and clean them real well in solvent, and roll the roller by hand until they freed up?
I did and no problems after 5k or so.

Choose a cam with 6 degrees or so of split. If you've got a good tuner go with a 112 lsa with 2-4 degrees of advance. If not go with a 114 lsa. As a rule of thumb a 402 will take 10 degrees more cam than a 346 to give you similar drivability. Example: A 224-230 in a 346 will drive about ike a 234-240 in a 402. I run a 234-240 112 +0 but that's with L92 heads at 11.4:1 compression. No reason though that that cam wouldn't work very well with your heads but with 4 degrees of advance. Whatever you do, don't over cam. Your heads won't keep up with it.

My $.02
Old 05-01-2008, 09:53 PM
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Did you replace the lifter trays? If not and they are worn the lifter can tilt to the side.
Old 05-01-2008, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
Did you replace the lifter trays? If not and they are worn the lifter can tilt to the side.
Again, no.

I made multipe threads for when I was doing my head/cam swap... talked to sevral people and texas speed. No one told me this...

So Wtf man?! Im so pissed, that retatded bits of info are just NOW reaching me. that maybe I could have potentially saved my old LS1.

I havent driven in 90+ days, I miss my car so much. Im so mad right now
Old 05-02-2008, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
No, why the hell didnt anyone mention this to me?


and thats bullshit, Im gonna ask these guys for a refund. There was no instructions or nothing.
All roller lifters, regardless of name brand, or if they're solid or hydraulic, need to be cleaned in solvent, and you have to make sure the rollers spin freely.
Its not a caddy lifter issue, its all rollers.
Alot of times they have some sort of waxy coating that gets into the roller needle bearings, and makes them stick. The use it to keep them from rusting or something. They've been that way for years, heck decades.
Old 05-02-2008, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
All roller lifters, regardless of name brand, or if they're solid or hydraulic, need to be cleaned in solvent, and you have to make sure the rollers spin freely.
Its not a caddy lifter issue, its all rollers.
Alot of times they have some sort of waxy coating that gets into the roller needle bearings, and makes them stick. The use it to keep them from rusting or something. They've been that way for years, heck decades.
regardless. I never heard of that before. But then again I never used roller lifters on the 3 other engines ive built


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