Yeah I just did a fast rounded numbers list. $36,500. I'm missing some stuff but that just took me a few minuts to toss together..

 

After doing a few top dollar aftermarket builds with the 6bolt heads, you will be in the 18-20 range for a long block for sure, this is stuffed with only the best.

We have done a few huge builds in the past as far as mega hp goes.

For a 800-1000hp engine you should plan around doing something 400in or greater with a good pair of heads/intake.

For over 1000, ask your self if you REALLY need this much hp, this tends to be where it gets stupidly expensive.

Solid roller, high end rods, custom coated pistons, custom ported heads, and a tune out of this world.

While the average joe might be able to complete this, it is best to use advice or help from someone whom has done this before.

If it is a pure drag car, the aluminum rods might not be out of the question, however every 50-60laps they must be replaced, think preventive matience. This is only for the 1400+ guys, and then you can run a high end steel rod (oliver, manley).

 

since your stuck on the 427, why not use the new dart billet block. yes it is money. but not like your build is cheap. it is lighter than the LSX. and i have heard from alot of people the LSX block needs alot of mechen work.like 2k plus. which puts you about 500 to 1000 under the dart. if i had 3500 in fuel. 2500 in rear. 1000 in suspension, 4000 in interanals. 3000 in inkate(willson)and not to menchein probly 2000 in heads. what is anouther K in the block

 

You heard wrong..LOL, yes there is more work to an LSX block but its not $2,000... Thats why our LSX is $6234 not $8234...

 

The dart block is not +1000, more like +5000. The closest thing would be a warhawk or a resleeved ls2 block. Either will hold the power he wants if done properly.

 

So if I go with a turbo set up should I run twins or just a big single?

 

I'm sure EPP can answer that but don't twins spin up faster? Isn't that what makes them better for say more of a street application? Taking a stab in the dark so dont flame me to hard..LOL

 

Whats your goals?
Stick/auto?

Both can make big hp, it all comes down to if you have the extra money to expand the system. Also if you have the room for the extra turbo.

Twins tend to spool a bit quicker depending on size, for a 800hp street car they can be mighty fun, on the other hand a 80mm turbo can too.

 

Well after looking at cost and everything I can’t build my 1,800 goal

So 1,000 would be great if I could get more I would love it. I have been looking at APS twin setup but I would have to upgrade to bigger turbos..
I thought it would be cool to have the APS just because it's some what hidden and looks like it could be a good street able set up.

I might just end up fabing my own piping and build it all myself to save more $$$ I'm thinking it will end up being a stick car.

 

Yeah that sounds about right, but I have seen twin T56's I wonder how street able they are

 

Honestly, alot of people try to do this, but the end result is either not up to quality or it ends up being much more money.

The APS TT 427 kit is a steal right now, larger turbos and a huge A2A core.

I my self am impressed by the sheer quality of the aps kit, good fasteners, cast manifolds. It would surely be hard to beat this price if custom doing it. Possibly with truck manifolds but its all in what your looking for.

The midrange from the TT will be the thing putting the huge grin on your face, not a huge peak number that spins the tires.

 

so whats your input? I'm up for advise.

 

Honestly I've seen a car that EPP did a APS twin kit on and it was killer! Bob was showing it to me (online of course). I would trust their recomendation, I send my customers in need of a s/c or FI advice to them all the time.

 

Well so far you and EPP has my business. I just have a cash flow issue right now

 

Well I found this..

Note alot of race classes twins are outlawed. And most of the realy heavy hitters are using a BIG single.
Most turbo companies say a twin is better for the street for good spool up, but the singles are more efficient on the top end with regards to racing.
some more reading, also talks about compond charging

 

If you are that serious about racing it, you probably need to find the class you want to compete in and build to suit that class.

FWIW, the twin vs single arguement has raged for along time. Alot of the Ford boys use twins because they don't have the cubes to spool a big single as quickly as we do.

FWIW, a smaller ci motor will get more power out of a given cfm of airflow than a larger.

 

Yup, figure out what you will be doing with the car before spending a dime on it. If you plan to run a certin class then do so.

Ex, if you want to run radial then there is requirements to suit your car, not only motor but if your running stock suspension style classes as well.

It sounds like you want a badass street car, but you dont want to be just limited to that.

For a street car, the 8.50 cage cert is about as friendly as you can get i suppose. To run with the big boys down to 7.50 you will need caging that is not so street friendly.

Are you looking for a street car to race, or are you looking for a race car to street?

 

Are you looking into Forged or Billet?

...One helluva crank!

What are you looking at for race weight?

 

forged rods.

Race weight I'm not sure yet. I'm just starting to chop the car up but any metal I don't need on the car I'm wanting to get rid of. But I'm going to keep a stock look inside and out -the cage and all

 

I haven't picked a class yet. I want a race car but if I want to take it out to town and have fun I can. you know make a food run.

I need a new NHRA rule book. I also really need to look into all the classes and pick one. as far as the 8.5 cage I will be adding on to it.