n0ob questions LS1 vs. LS7
Warhark or Dart blocks.
PS
Does GM still make the LS1 Block? The LS6 block yes, but the LS1 was eliminated to do poor oiling and cooling. Then the LS6 block was designed.
The the LS7 and LS2 blocks. Now the LS3, which still has its challenges
If I'm able to do it at a lower cost I'd be very happy.
Getting it just right is more important than the budget. I'd rather break the budget and pay 21k for the perfect engine than stay on budget and buy something I'm not happy with.
The lower the cost the sooner I can start the build...
If I'm able to do it at a lower cost I'd be very happy.
Getting it just right is more important than the budget. I'd rather break the budget and pay 21k for the perfect engine than stay on budget and buy something I'm not happy with.
The lower the cost the sooner I can start the build...
You could also do 402 with a 88mm on 15psi and make 1000bhp all day. Probably be a little more and I would imagine at least 16k.
Nate
You could also do 402 with a 88mm on 15psi and make 1000bhp all day. Probably be a little more and I would imagine at least 16k.
Nate
The LS7 seams like the engine to beat, everyone is raving about them and at first the look perfect. Still I'd like your opinion on this:
Start with a LS2 block, resleeve with Danton sleeves 4.125" Bore.
Get a light-weight 4.00" stroke forged crank.
Use GM Stock Rods from the LS7 (Titanium).
Go with ported LS7 heads, I've seen flow numbers in the 386cfm area with 4.125" bores. This way you get the nice Ti-Valves and stuff...
Have a custom cam made and get a nice solid roller set-up.
Get a good carb conversion going.
What do you think? Am I getting closer?
Are the LS7 pistons any good or should I be looking at the after market pistons right away?
The LS7 seams like the engine to beat, everyone is raving about them and at first the look perfect. Still I'd like your opinion on this:
Start with a LS2 block, resleeve with Danton sleeves 4.125" Bore.
Get a light-weight 4.00" stroke forged crank.
Use GM Stock Rods from the LS7 (Titanium).
Go with ported LS7 heads, I've seen flow numbers in the 386cfm area with 4.125" bores. This way you get the nice Ti-Valves and stuff...
Have a custom cam made and get a nice solid roller set-up.
Get a good carb conversion going.
What do you think? Am I getting closer?
Are the LS7 pistons any good or should I be looking at the after market pistons right away?
Go with aftermarket rods. For an all NA application, maybe on the stockers, but if you plan on spraying it with a healthy shot, personally I would go with aftermarket forged steel pieces. What you would give up in weight, you would more than make up in strength. JMHO
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The LS7 seams like the engine to beat, everyone is raving about them and at first the look perfect. Still I'd like your opinion on this:
Start with a LS2 block, resleeve with Danton sleeves 4.125" Bore.
Get a light-weight 4.00" stroke forged crank.
Use GM Stock Rods from the LS7 (Titanium).
Go with ported LS7 heads, I've seen flow numbers in the 386cfm area with 4.125" bores. This way you get the nice Ti-Valves and stuff...
Have a custom cam made and get a nice solid roller set-up.
Get a good carb conversion going.
What do you think? Am I getting closer?
Are the LS7 pistons any good or should I be looking at the after market pistons right away?

The sleeves are just way too finicky to be in a 1000hp combo. If it were my build, I wouldn't even consider any of the aluminum blocks and just get an LSX. There are just too many advantages the LSX block offers that you are really gonna want in something like this. To throw it by the wayside just to save about 100lbs would be a mistake, IMO. The LSX could potentially net you more cubes (making 1000hp that much easier), and WILL still cost less than a sleeved LS2.
Forget stock rods, pistons, or any other nonsense. The LS7's "titanium" rods are merely powdered metal rods, like the process used for the stock LS1-LS6, but with titanium in it. It is not even close to being in the same category as a "true" titanium rod, like from GRP for example. Steel would be OK for about 8000 RPM or so, but depending on how much of a racecar you're trying to make here (racecars usually don't pass emissions) aluminum would probably be a better choice.
Now, as already mentioned, 8000 RPM is the goal here. In that case, forget GM heads (unless you have $$$ for C5R's). GM factory heads are notorious for having a minimal amount of material between the port ceiling and the valve spring pocket *cough* TSP *cough*. Again, if it were my build I would look at a nice aftermarket casting, like ETP's stuff, for the extra material under the spring pocket. Trust me, it's a nice thing to have with the kind of spring pressures you'll be running on that solid roller to turn 8000RPM. Not to mention the thicker decks, and stronger aluminum casting.
I do like the carb idea, though.
If so then a sleeved ls2 427 and some aftermarket heads. ET, All Pro both have LS7 heads that flow and will handle the setup your talking about. More material to and in and around the rocker bosses. 6 bolt options... much much better choices but its all about money and how do you have to spend.
I wasn't going to say what KCS said about the LS7 block but it is the reason I'm using a sleeved Ls2 instead. Some don't agree so I stay out of it, but I advise my customers about it if they want to use the block for FI applications.

I'm learning a lot here...
99blancoSS>I need it to be light! ET 8.9x/9.1x @ 2800lbs race weight. PG Tranny -> 700fwhp N/A, add spray if necessary. (I'm trying for 2200lbs/1000kg empty with no fuel)
The first thing I would buy is a liquid cooling setup for your credit card, any way you do it, it will be expensive.
This is a bored and sleeved LS2 block with premium components for $6,950. You can option for high or low compression pistions, etc.
Here's a great writeup by GM High Tech magazine on the Value Shortlbock:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ine/index.html







