PRC Spring issue, seals not staying seated!
PRC Spring issue, seals not staying seated! Bought a new set of PRC dual valve springs off a member on here, first round I didn’t seat the seals and I smoked real bad. So I pulled the springs off reseated the same set of seals. Not really a huge surprise but after time my car started smoking again. I ordered new seals, took off the springs and found that only one of the sixteen seals was still seated. The seals on the exhaust side of cylinders 1 and 7 were completely destroyed. Well I put new seals on, seated them properly and for the first couple hundred miles everything was good. Now my car is smoking bad again! What could be causing my seals to become unseated? Has anyone else with PRC springs had this issue? Could the stub that my seals seat on be out of spec? I am really thinking of switching to the PAC beehive springs and re-using the stock hardware.
I installed another set of these same springs on a friends car, and he is having zero issues. So I know my technique works, just not on my car.
2006 LS2 GTO, stock heads.
This is with a Vengeance Racing VRX5 cam, XER lobes
Comp Hitech pushrods 7.400
PRC Dual Springs
I installed another set of these same springs on a friends car, and he is having zero issues. So I know my technique works, just not on my car.
2006 LS2 GTO, stock heads.
This is with a Vengeance Racing VRX5 cam, XER lobes
Comp Hitech pushrods 7.400
PRC Dual Springs
How were they installed? I had a set on a Nissan do this, they were aftermarket. I ended up going with the Nissan seals as the rubber was more compliant and they stayed on the valve guide, unlike the aftermarkets which came off and rode up and down with the valve. If you want to keep the springs, you might consider the GM seals (1st style, not the combined seat/seal that was introduced in 02)
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 6
From: RainbowCity,Alabama
The springs have nothing to do with this. This exact seal is used by many other companies. Make sure to install the seal using a seal driving tool. Hammer it down until it stops. You may get away with using a 12mm 12point socket, but this could damage the spring on top of the seal if not careful, also causing the car to smoke.
This customer beat his in with a socket. Hopefully, us doing it the right way fix's it.
Although I haven't seen the PRC seals up close, I am assuming they are the same as most of the other standard aftermarket seal sets.
The springs have nothing to do with this. This exact seal is used by many other companies. Make sure to install the seal using a seal driving tool. Hammer it down until it stops. You may get away with using a 12mm 12point socket, but this could damage the spring on top of the seal if not careful, also causing the car to smoke.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Texas and Qatar
If your using oil on the guide or the inside of the seal itself, next time try installing it "dry" where it fits over the valve guide. Still use oil on the valve seal surface itself, where it seals against the valve itself.
I use a seal installer, and on occasion have used an 11mm 12-point socket where clearance is tight.
I use a seal installer, and on occasion have used an 11mm 12-point socket where clearance is tight.
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If your using oil on the guide or the inside of the seal itself, next time try installing it "dry" where it fits over the valve guide. Still use oil on the valve seal surface itself, where it seals against the valve itself.
I use a seal installer, and on occasion have used an 11mm 12-point socket where clearance is tight.
I use a seal installer, and on occasion have used an 11mm 12-point socket where clearance is tight.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Texas and Qatar
I've built a few engines in my day.
I mainly do my own personal engines anymore, but I do finish out the TSP engines from shortblocks into longblocks and often further. Usually about 2-3 a week, sometimes more... along with my normal back-to-back installs.
As far as the dyno, I usually stay away from operating them, I'd rather be working on the mechanical part of the cars instead. I've done much parts testing with them though and still learn a lot of valuable information.
I've built a few engines in my day.
I mainly do my own personal engines anymore, but I do finish out the TSP engines from shortblocks into longblocks and often further. Usually about 2-3 a week, sometimes more... along with my normal back-to-back installs.
As far as the dyno, I usually stay away from operating them, I'd rather be working on the mechanical part of the cars instead. I've done much parts testing with them though and still learn a lot of valuable information.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Texas and Qatar
Yep, my entire job is working on LS motors all day in some sort, both at TSP and as a hobby.
I think we'll bring a 98 Camaro with a heads/cam setup this time to the LSx race, and probably using the same dyno motor from that engine dyno thread for fun. It should run fairly decent.
None of the other cars really fit into anything, although we may bring the Backhalved Camaro as backup, its currently setup for 1/8th mi. racing though.
Look us up if you make it there. You'll definitely see the Toter and Trailer.
I think we'll bring a 98 Camaro with a heads/cam setup this time to the LSx race, and probably using the same dyno motor from that engine dyno thread for fun. It should run fairly decent.
None of the other cars really fit into anything, although we may bring the Backhalved Camaro as backup, its currently setup for 1/8th mi. racing though.
Look us up if you make it there. You'll definitely see the Toter and Trailer.
Yep, my entire job is working on LS motors all day in some sort, both at TSP and as a hobby.
I think we'll bring a 98 Camaro with a heads/cam setup this time to the LSx race, and probably using the same dyno motor from that engine dyno thread for fun. It should run fairly decent.
None of the other cars really fit into anything, although we may bring the Backhalved Camaro as backup, its currently setup for 1/8th mi. racing though.
Look us up if you make it there. You'll definitely see the Toter and Trailer.
I think we'll bring a 98 Camaro with a heads/cam setup this time to the LSx race, and probably using the same dyno motor from that engine dyno thread for fun. It should run fairly decent.
None of the other cars really fit into anything, although we may bring the Backhalved Camaro as backup, its currently setup for 1/8th mi. racing though.
Look us up if you make it there. You'll definitely see the Toter and Trailer.
Thanks for the heads up guys. I went ahead and bought some beehives. I have tried putting seals on twice now, using a deep well 12mm 12 point socket. Just the time and hassle of pulling all the springs to replace the seals it isn’t worth it for me anymore. If someone wants these, $200 shipped with everything minus the seals. I went with PAC 1518 beehives, and using the stock pieces. I hope to have these off this week sometime, last time only one seal was still seated. We will see how it goes this time around.
Hey I just saw you are from FW! Where is this LSX shootout being held at? I grew up in FW and just recently moved to OH, but most of my family is still back there.
