*WARNING* L83 5.3 with manual transmission
#1
*WARNING* L83 5.3 with manual transmission
This is not something that I have seen anywhere, and I learned the hard way.
The 5.3 crankshaft IS NOT machined to accept a manual transmission. You can install the large diameter bearing (2010 Camaro bearing), but the smaller bearing that fits on the 6.2 cranks won't work, as the crank is not bored for it.
Additionally, the depth of the crank bore is only .573" (bell flange to the inside of the crank), whereas the 6.2 cranks are 1.200" deep.
When you bolt a T56 Magnum to the 5.3 using a standard bellhousing and shim plate, there is a .25" interference. What is crazy is that you can slide all the parts together, but when you tighten down the bolts, the back of the block splits off. Ask me how I know.... All of this happened with just a ratchet, tightening the bolts in a criss-cross fashion.
I wasn't using an impact or cheater bar either. These blocks seem to be a little weak in this regard. I believe the block ear was flexing and then broke once the last bolt was tightened down.
The fix that we believe will work is a 3/8" spacer plate between the bellhousing and the transmission. I am working with a couple of companies to make this a standard offering.
I just wanted to put this information out there so that nobody will have to deal with a fractured block like I have to.
The 5.3 crankshaft IS NOT machined to accept a manual transmission. You can install the large diameter bearing (2010 Camaro bearing), but the smaller bearing that fits on the 6.2 cranks won't work, as the crank is not bored for it.
Additionally, the depth of the crank bore is only .573" (bell flange to the inside of the crank), whereas the 6.2 cranks are 1.200" deep.
When you bolt a T56 Magnum to the 5.3 using a standard bellhousing and shim plate, there is a .25" interference. What is crazy is that you can slide all the parts together, but when you tighten down the bolts, the back of the block splits off. Ask me how I know.... All of this happened with just a ratchet, tightening the bolts in a criss-cross fashion.
I wasn't using an impact or cheater bar either. These blocks seem to be a little weak in this regard. I believe the block ear was flexing and then broke once the last bolt was tightened down.
The fix that we believe will work is a 3/8" spacer plate between the bellhousing and the transmission. I am working with a couple of companies to make this a standard offering.
I just wanted to put this information out there so that nobody will have to deal with a fractured block like I have to.
The following 3 users liked this post by 71buickfreak:
#4
'93 Chevy Silverado 4x4 LS swap
Will this happen to me putting a LS in a '93 Chevy Silverado with a 5 speed? Just started thinking about LS swap in her, other than building a motor. The only thing that I have found is that the bell housing has to be changed to fit the motor. Have lots of questions and would greatly appreciate any help that can provided.
#5
TECH Addict
This is why I never use the bolts to pull the transmission to the block,,
When everything is good it should slide all the way to a solid mate,,
Unfortunately .025 would be damn hard to catch working under the car
unless you were using a feeler gauge to check.. and who would do that most of the time?
When everything is good it should slide all the way to a solid mate,,
Unfortunately .025 would be damn hard to catch working under the car
unless you were using a feeler gauge to check.. and who would do that most of the time?
#6
Will this happen to me putting a LS in a '93 Chevy Silverado with a 5 speed? Just started thinking about LS swap in her, other than building a motor. The only thing that I have found is that the bell housing has to be changed to fit the motor. Have lots of questions and would greatly appreciate any help that can provided.
#7
It is one of those things that sometimes you have to do. The dowel pins and bellhousing are brand new, they simply will not slide together by hand no matter what you do, they certainly won't do it with 150 pounds of transmission hanging off the end. It could have been an issue of powder coating in the dowel bore, or just not enough tolerance in the bore, but even after it had all been together a couple of times, it still had to be drawn together. You can get it to line up and start on the dowels, but then it just won't go any further.
Having busted the first block, believe me, it sucked. I won't lie and say my butthole wasn't puckered the entire time on the second install.
One a side note- I was able to get the block welded up, so that's good.
Having busted the first block, believe me, it sucked. I won't lie and say my butthole wasn't puckered the entire time on the second install.
One a side note- I was able to get the block welded up, so that's good.
The following users liked this post:
Ls7colorado (05-17-2022)
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
If I'm not replacing like for like,, Its just too much easier to mock it all up on a bench..
I even have a spare bell housing for one rig that I cut big slots in so I can play with the clutch..
A BB sized piece of modeling clay on the end of the trans input shaft will work to show how much
space you have when its all slid together..
I even have a spare bell housing for one rig that I cut big slots in so I can play with the clutch..
A BB sized piece of modeling clay on the end of the trans input shaft will work to show how much
space you have when its all slid together..
#9
Oh yeah, it is lesson learned. Problem is that nobody knew it was a potential issue. A minor change for the factory, but it is big freaking deal to guys like us. Very few people check input shaft to crank clearance, there is typically .5 to .75" of clearance, it just isn't an issue on known applications. The LT1, LT4, and L86 are all no problem. The L83 5.3 is an issue because the 5.3 will never see a factory-installed manual. I would be willing to bet the V6 is the same way, and I think that V6 will catch on for small engine-bay applications.
#10
TECH Addict
Yep,, I'd be surprised if they don't go to cone engagement on the back of GM cranks in the next couple years..
I've considered the Newest gen 4.3 for my Jeep, the V6 would leave a lot of room and comes with the 8 Speed.. 300 Hp wouldn't suck..
I've considered the Newest gen 4.3 for my Jeep, the V6 would leave a lot of room and comes with the 8 Speed.. 300 Hp wouldn't suck..
Last edited by pdxmotorhead; 10-05-2018 at 07:14 PM.
#11
I got extremely lucky. I bought my L83 and T56 back in April but was too busy to get to everything until a few weeks ago. Luckily I keep reading up on swaps and was up at 11PM one night and caught your post on Hotrod.
Somebody's gotta be the one to find out when doing a new swap, and I'm extremely grateful that you documented it.
Also as far as pulling the trans on with the bolts, I had to do that a liiiiittle bit with my setup because I have a McLeod twin disk. The extra disk just makes it slightly harder to get together if they aren't 100% lined up.
Somebody's gotta be the one to find out when doing a new swap, and I'm extremely grateful that you documented it.
Also as far as pulling the trans on with the bolts, I had to do that a liiiiittle bit with my setup because I have a McLeod twin disk. The extra disk just makes it slightly harder to get together if they aren't 100% lined up.
#14
Wow. the problem with FEA (finite element analysis) design is that if a part is not designed to be stressed in a certain way, it's not strong in that way. This is an amazing example of that very problem. a block out of a SBC would never break like this. not that i have ever seen.
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Sort of on topic since the Hot Rod article was mentioned - does anyone know the right part number for the smaller bearing one would use with a T56 and a 6.2? Is it just the same pilot bearing as the older 1998-2002 Camaros? The article says use the smaller one, but I'm not 100% sure which one that is.
And do you guys think these blocks are too weak to handle being mounted to a frame stand using two of those lower holes in the thinner material?
Thanks
And do you guys think these blocks are too weak to handle being mounted to a frame stand using two of those lower holes in the thinner material?
Thanks
#16
TECH Addict
Will this happen to me putting a LS in a '93 Chevy Silverado with a 5 speed? Just started thinking about LS swap in her, other than building a motor. The only thing that I have found is that the bell housing has to be changed to fit the motor. Have lots of questions and would greatly appreciate any help that can provided.
#19
3/8" thick spacer required
This spacer/adapter is a must
for the 5.3lt and tremec manual 5speed / 6speed combination to work and avoid catastrophe. Also need to use a 2010 Camaro SS pilot bearing. Spec also makes nice billet / steel flywheels for this combination. You can thank me in advance 😁
for the 5.3lt and tremec manual 5speed / 6speed combination to work and avoid catastrophe. Also need to use a 2010 Camaro SS pilot bearing. Spec also makes nice billet / steel flywheels for this combination. You can thank me in advance 😁
The following 5 users liked this post by Dpredki:
G Atsma (05-17-2022), JeffFro (07-05-2023), John B (05-17-2022), Ls7colorado (05-17-2022), MikeA.Tango^2 (06-21-2022)
#20
I prefer to space the trans from the bellhousing, but there are a couple of ways to skin this cat. And yes, you definitely need the Large Camaro bearing, and you usually have to hone the crank a little to get the bearing to actually fit. GM did not do much finish work on the 5.3 cranks, so they do take a little finnessing.
The following users liked this post:
Dpredki (05-17-2022)