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I'm doing a swap, and will be going aftermarket drysump. I'm looking for the flow rating, and pressure for the high side of the stock oil pump.
I have looked for this info without any luck. All I can find is pressure min. for select rpm ranges. The high side flow is mainly what I'm after on the variable flow and pressure oil pump.
My thinking is just run it at it's high flow and pressure values. GM has it designed to fail to the high pressure/ high flow side. So I think this is logical.
Any info would be greatly appreciated, and help others if they go this route. Thanks in advance.
No input probably not much knowledge about the oil system on the new LT4 engines. I Bought the dry sump system, and will find out if it will work with the cam phasing and cyl. Deactivation. I will post findings when the swap is up and running.
Thanks. I already bought the parts I will work with the manufacturer to get it to deliver the oil volume and pressure it needs. I will look at the Camaro forum and see what I can find.
Is that a Dailey engineering setup, or someone else? Are you able to run the ATI damper with the 8mm x25tooth hub? Are you running the first and second serpentine belts, or just one of them? Also, what water pump? Truck, Vette or Camaro/CTS-V?
It's the Dailey Engineering setup. I was advised to buy the wet sump motor and save a little cash. It cost me more time and money to do it this way. I should have done my own research. I'm going to run the Zo6 accessories. I had to change the supercharger snout, the timing cover, and need a new hub for the ati damper assembly because of the differences between the wet and dry sump accessory layout, and crankshaft front snout differences between wet and dry sump. Not sure what size, and tooth count on the oil pump drive mandrel for the front of the ati damper assembly, but it's supposed to work. We will see.
Thanks for the reply. I'm really interested in how your accessory drive set up turns out. I am in a similar situation with the project I am working on. With the Dailey setup pump being on the passenger side, It looks like you will lose the ability to retain the AC compressor in that location. Have you figured out how you are going to drive the water pump? It looks like you will still need an idler down low on the passenger side by the dry sump pump to make it all work. Please update this post when you make some more progress!!
Oil passage needs to be plugged that feeds from the main bearings back to the variable displacement oil pump. This needs to be plugged when going dry sump with a aftermarket setup with a external pump. I made a plate that bolts to the timing chain tensioner using the stock mount, and blocks the passage using the oem oring style gasket.
I made a little progress today.
I installed the front timing chain cover.
I was able to press on the superdamper hub. Bolted the damper, spacer, and supercharger pulley onto the hub.
I was going to bolt the flywheel on, but apparently the Spec supertwin clutch kit didn't include flywheel bolts.
I ordered the flywheel bolts, and the flywheel locking tool. I need the tool to install the harmonic balancer center bolt.
After the harmonic balancer crank bolt is in I can install the oil pump drive mandrel in front of the supercharger pulley. It bolts into the last 3 open holes on the damper assembly.
I installed the harmonic balancer for the final time. I ordered a tool to hold the fly wheel/flex plate. I used it on the original flexplate just in case it was going to damage the ring gear. It worked well, and didn't damage anything. I used a new oem style bolt that was provided with the damper kit. I wouldn't try installing this bolt without the tool to hold the flywheel. I installed the drive mandrel flange and then the sprocket. I used blue loctite on all damper fasteners.
I measure the offset of the bearing race to crankshaft centerline. It's not out enough to buy dowel pins .005 is Max allowable, and that's where it is. I don't think they sell .0025 offset dowels. I couldn't find any. I think I'm going to open the holes slightly to get it closer to O. The dowels have to be pulled into the holes with the bolts, so I think it will be safe to remove .0025 from the holes.
once the bell housing, clutch, and transmission are squared away I can mount the oil pump to the pan, and install the accessories.
I wouldn't mess with enlarging the holes. You're within spec and at worst, you might make worse.
Andrew
I was going to clearance with Sand paper drum lightly to remove any slight imperfections in the holes. I ended up cleaning the bearing race and double checking my numbers. I ended up being at .004, and decided to leave it at that. Thanks for the feedback. Didn't know if there was much interest in this project.
07-17-2018, 11:28 AM
LT4 oil pump specs/Dailey Engineering dry sump install. 
