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I am getting ready to drop in a forged crank in this Gen V 5.3. I pulled the stock crank out and the mains look brand new. Here is a pic. Would you change these to new ACL bearings or let these run? They all look the same. It's purdy
I didn’t know that GM was putting the coated stuff in their 5.3’s. Those are perfect. My only concern would be crush factor, when re-using bearings. If it’s a street build, I’d have no problem with those whatsoever. A big rpm race build would make me think twice however. Once the bearing crush is administered, the upper and lower half mate in that pressed together state. When the caps are untorqued, the crush is released. The crush is designed to keep the bearings from turning in the journal. In theory, the same bearings back in the same journals should re-introduce the crush, but in a race setup, I wouldn’t bank on it. Just my .02….
That's why I ask stuff in here. Always good info. I didn't even think about the crush. I have new bearings here so I will use them---cause I might step on it a few times.
Does anybody know the max pressure I can get out of the stock oil pump. The solenoid will be unplugged, so it will be running in hi pressure mode. Is there a spring upgrade for these new style pumps. I don't want to spend 500 bucks for a Katech pump
Why do you want to run max pressure? On a small block you dont want to run any higher pressure than you need, or else all the oil will end up in the valley and overhead instead of the pan where it belongs. If this is a street engine I would leave the pump alone and go up in oil weight to a 0W-40, that will get you more pressure, better film thickness and less oil flow...ie the oil stays in the pan where it belongs. I personally wouldn't waste my money with the Katech pump, the parts they "upgraded" weren't even the problem with the original pump, the only downside to this oil pump is that the slide or eccentricity ring will wear out at the pivot pin and eventually crack. At 7000 RPM if you are making 40 psi of oil pressure you are perfectly fine.
Why do you want to run max pressure? On a small block you dont want to run any higher pressure than you need, or else all the oil will end up in the valley and overhead instead of the pan where it belongs. If this is a street engine I would leave the pump alone and go up in oil weight to a 0W-40, that will get you more pressure, better film thickness and less oil flow...ie the oil stays in the pan where it belongs. I personally wouldn't waste my money with the Katech pump, the parts they "upgraded" weren't even the problem with the original pump, the only downside to this oil pump is that the slide or eccentricity ring will wear out at the pivot pin and eventually crack. At 7000 RPM if you are making 40 psi of oil pressure you are perfectly fine.
The LT (as well as the LS) platform doesn’t have a valley that sees oil. All the valley in these engines see is oil mist and venting, unlike a SBC. Also puddling in the heads isn’t going to happen due to 3 large drainback holes in each head. The idea that a HP oil pump can pump an LS or LT pan dry is a myth. Road racers have experienced oiling issues at very high rpm while experiencing high cornering loads, but that was more due to lateral g forces than a drainback issue. Lots and lots of guys here and abroad run both HP and HV/HP pumps with 30 weight oil, that flog their stuff regularly, without issue.
The LT (as well as the LS) platform doesn’t have a valley that sees oil. All the valley in these engines see is oil mist and venting, unlike a SBC. Also puddling in the heads isn’t going to happen due to 3 large drainback holes in each head. The idea that a HP oil pump can pump an LS or LT pan dry is a myth. Road racers have experienced oiling issues at very high rpm while experiencing high cornering loads, but that was more due to lateral g forces than a drainback issue. Lots and lots of guys here and abroad run both HP and HV/HP pumps with 30 weight oil, that flog their stuff regularly, without issue.
There are no real drain backs on a Gen III and up small block, if you look carefully that is actually where the crankcase wants to breathe, so you constantly have oil trying to fight the air rising in the valley. These are NOT a dry valley, so you sir / ma'am are mistaken. It is definitely not a myth that you can drain the pan on a small block, I have seen a number of engines with this issue. If you have a looser Gen V engine, you are flowing upwards of 50 LPM of oil, and I'm sorry all that oil is going to fight hard to get back to the pan. You might need to go back to draw down school.
I bought a new pump from a vendor . I guess I will find out pretty soon if it's a good one. I don't think it will suck the pan dry.
Previously, I had a 2005 Supercharged GTO with a front sump pan. I read over and over that you would starve the pump if you drag raced that setup. I drag raced mine all the time with the stock pan and crank scraper. I logged about 50% of my runs and I never saw a drop in oil pressure in a quarter mile. I didn't over fill as I think that causes aeration, but if you read the GTO sites, there were a lot of guys filling a quart over. Same guys replacing bearings and cranks. Anyhow, thanks for the comments. I used the new Holley pan on this one because the engine came out of a truck (truck pan) and it wouldn't fit in this Camaro.
Last edited by dw456post; Jan 2, 2023 at 09:47 AM.
There are no real drain backs on a Gen III and up small block, if you look carefully that is actually where the crankcase wants to breathe, so you constantly have oil trying to fight the air rising in the valley. These are NOT a dry valley, so you sir / ma'am are mistaken. It is definitely not a myth that you can drain the pan on a small block, I have seen a number of engines with this issue. If you have a looser Gen V engine, you are flowing upwards of 50 LPM of oil, and I'm sorry all that oil is going to fight hard to get back to the pan. You might need to go back to draw down school.
Ok, I see your frustrated. What your referring to as breathing holes in the heads, was rectified in about 2005, when GM introduced the vented valley plate. Yes, breathing does still take place through the valve covers, but the valley relieves a lot of pressure. There’s likely 500% more area (haven’t measured it, but it’s at least 5 times) for the oil to drain out of the heads, than with a gen1/2 engine. Valley is dry…sorry. It only sees oil mist through vacated air. I’m a sir, and I’m not mistaken. Again, lots of folks use both HP AND HV pumps without ever draining pan. And we see 7500 rpm regularly. I’ve been in this game a long time and I’ve only ever seen it happen in road race stuff, which was due to cornering g-forces trapping the oil upstairs. That’s what dry-sumps are for. I was a teacher at draw down school, before being promoted to principle. 😜
Ok, I see your frustrated. What your referring to as breathing holes in the heads, was rectified in about 2005, when GM introduced the vented valley plate. Yes, breathing does still take place through the valve covers, but the valley relieves a lot of pressure. There’s likely 500% more area (haven’t measured it, but it’s at least 5 times) for the oil to drain out of the heads, than with a gen1/2 engine. Valley is dry…sorry. It only sees oil mist through vacated air. I’m a sir, and I’m not mistaken. Again, lots of folks use both HP AND HV pumps without ever draining pan. And we see 7500 rpm regularly. I’ve been in this game a long time and I’ve only ever seen it happen in road race stuff, which was due to cornering g-forces trapping the oil upstairs. That’s what dry-sumps are for. I was a teacher at draw down school, before being promoted to principle. 😜
I'm not frustrated, just don't like disinformation......which you are providing. The HV - High Volume and HP - High Pressure pumps are a thing of the past, the new GM pumps are both HP and HV. If you have ever taught a class, then send me an invite an I will sit in the front row and be you "TA". The breathing holes in the heads have never been rectified, the same problem has been present since 1997......if you want the number to anyone that knows what they are talking about just PM me and I will provide. If you get the oil hot enough and actually use the engine like it is meant to be used, YOU WILL SUCK THE PAN DRY ENOUGH TO DAMAGE THE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS, the G488 Ferrari bearings won't save you. Unless you have a physics waiver, you sir are mistaken.....I don't care what your pronoun is, I do my best to guess and if I am wrong I apologize.
I'm not frustrated, just don't like disinformation......which you are providing. The HV - High Volume and HP - High Pressure pumps are a thing of the past, the new GM pumps are both HP and HV. If you have ever taught a class, then send me an invite an I will sit in the front row and be you "TA". The breathing holes in the heads have never been rectified, the same problem has been present since 1997......if you want the number to anyone that knows what they are talking about just PM me and I will provide. If you get the oil hot enough and actually use the engine like it is meant to be used, YOU WILL SUCK THE PAN DRY ENOUGH TO DAMAGE THE MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS, the G488 Ferrari bearings won't save you. Unless you have a physics waiver, you sir are mistaken.....I don't care what your pronoun is, I do my best to guess and if I am wrong I apologize.
Just quoting this for giggles…I returned your PM. You don’t have to private message me to make threats. You can post them here for the world to see…
Just quoting this for giggles…I returned your PM. You don’t have to private message me to make threats. You can post them here for the world to see…
Threats??? SOMEBODY is taking things WAAY too seriously to get into doing that.
I do give you credit for keeping cool in the face of such arrogance, Scott.
Have a great New Year!
Threats??? SOMEBODY is taking things WAAY too seriously to get into doing that.
I do give you credit for keeping cool in the face of such arrogance, Scott.
Have a great New Year!
Thanks G. I’m still scratching my head about this deal.
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Main Bearings 
