Hello, just thought Id drop a line...
02-05-2009, 09:26 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello, just thought Id drop a line... I am kinda new to the site, I love the LS motor but never had a reason to post until the past few months (finally got a lq9 motor and t-56) Going to put it in my 1970 chevelle. Here are a few pics of my build, feel free to ask questions. THANKS
The donor 2005 Escalade ESV
Motor all cleaned
Polished my own throttle body and swapped to ls1 intake.
New ''Area 51'' pulley bracket and belt.
WS6 T-56 6-SPEED
Sitting in the car.
Edelbrock Headers
My Spectra fuel injection tank.
Smoothed my firewall and got some fittings.
The donor 2005 Escalade ESV
Motor all cleaned
Polished my own throttle body and swapped to ls1 intake.
New ''Area 51'' pulley bracket and belt.
WS6 T-56 6-SPEED
Sitting in the car.
Edelbrock Headers
My Spectra fuel injection tank.
Smoothed my firewall and got some fittings.
03-24-2009, 06:41 PM
#6
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not too dead of a thread, and applicable to my situation, so I thought I'd revive it. Nice car! What type motor mounts did you use? Also, where there any problems with mating the T-56 to the LQ9? I am looking to put the same swap in my 69 Chevelle (The BBC in it now took a dump 
)
)
03-29-2009, 01:40 PM
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually the ''truck'' motors (lq9) and the ''car'' ls1 motors are identical in almost every way except for material of the block. So the only thing I had to do was add a pilot bushing into the crank and of course add a flywheel too. I also used my factory steel frame perches with a 3/8 flat steel plate welded under it to get the oil pan up enough to clear the steering linkage. I also used energy suspension tall motor mounts. let me know if you have any questions.
Last edited by orang-kr8; 03-29-2009 at 04:03 PM.
Trending Topics
03-30-2009, 06:14 PM
#8
On The Tree
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smoothed my firewall and got some fittings.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...e/DSC01078.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...e/DSC01078.jpg
03-30-2009, 11:34 PM
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually, I just cut out a cardboard template of my firewall and traced it onto a thin gauge piece of steel and cut it out with a cutoff wheel. Pretty easy in theory but it was a PAIN !!! before that I tried to buy the METAL WORKS PERFORMANCE kit but, from what Ive read they are gone for good.
so... My only option was to make my own.
Also I would never try to weld all the holes and try to grind everything smooth, there are just to many imperfections and holes. Not only would it take some time investment it would probably look horrible after all you hard work. The steel is too thin to support any sort of heat plus the years of crap will ruin your welds on top of it. That why I just put a thin gauge skin across the surface.
But if you clean and remove all the paint where you plan to weld on your firewall plate and go slow you should be good, it looks a thousand times better when your done. ALSO BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE BACKSIDE IN BETWEEN YOUR DASH!! THERE IS VERY FLAMMABLE INSULATION LINING THE BACK OF THE FIREWALL. I would recommend removing your dash. ALSO COVER YOUR WINDSHEILD WITH A THICK NON FLAMMABLE BLANKET GLASS DOES NOT LIKE SPARKS.
so... My only option was to make my own.
Also I would never try to weld all the holes and try to grind everything smooth, there are just to many imperfections and holes. Not only would it take some time investment it would probably look horrible after all you hard work. The steel is too thin to support any sort of heat plus the years of crap will ruin your welds on top of it. That why I just put a thin gauge skin across the surface.
But if you clean and remove all the paint where you plan to weld on your firewall plate and go slow you should be good, it looks a thousand times better when your done. ALSO BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE BACKSIDE IN BETWEEN YOUR DASH!! THERE IS VERY FLAMMABLE INSULATION LINING THE BACK OF THE FIREWALL. I would recommend removing your dash. ALSO COVER YOUR WINDSHEILD WITH A THICK NON FLAMMABLE BLANKET GLASS DOES NOT LIKE SPARKS.
04-25-2009, 02:25 PM
#16
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Swapping to a ls1/ls6 intake is pretty straight forward, the only problem you will run into will be the injectors and one pulley that need to be relocated. The pulley relocation bracket I bought a while ago from ''AREA 51'' motorsports for a little over 100 bucks with the belt. And the injectors you just remove a plastic ring at the base of the injector, but I have been told that this will not work I will need actual ls1/ls6 injectors. I guess I will just have to wait and see. I will try and find the web site for the intake swap I used and post it for you later.
05-21-2009, 04:53 PM
#17
So is the offset on the crankshaft flange (transmission side) the same as a typical LS1? I'm wanting to do a LQ4/LQ9 with a t-56 as well, and want to make sure a LS1 flywheel would work. How much work did you have to do to the floorboard and trans cross member to clear the transmission, and what drive line angle did you end up with?
The car is looking really good btw.
Also, did that place that made the pulley bracket go out of business? (Area 51)
The car is looking really good btw.
Also, did that place that made the pulley bracket go out of business? (Area 51)
Last edited by claytonisbob; 05-21-2009 at 04:59 PM.
05-21-2009, 11:50 PM
#18
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks!!! basically all the truck engine blocks (4.8 5.3 6.0 6.2) are physically identical on the exterior as any ls1 ls2 or ls6, so yes everything from a ls style t56 will bolt perfectly to any truck motor. The only thing you have to buy/install is a new pilot bushing along with the obvious flywheel, clutch and trans. As for the trans tunnel, IT SUCKS!! that was the hardest part of doing the whole swap (so far). Welding, cutting and grinding for a couple of weeks. When using the factory crossmember is pretty easy, just cut and flip the perch and weld it back on. But cutting is optional, I have seen alot of kits that require no cutting for A- body cars, but I dont know how that affects the angle of the driveline and I wanted the engine to sit back and as low as possible. I ended up with 3 degrees on my driveline. I also looked into the area 51 kit and they must have sold to another company, here is the new website. LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS 
ALSO Kj598bbc HERE IS THE WEBSITE I WAS LOOKING AT FOR THE LS6 INTAKE SWAP
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...t=359987&pp=10
http://www.actionspeedshop.com/parts...duct_info.html
ALSO Kj598bbc HERE IS THE WEBSITE I WAS LOOKING AT FOR THE LS6 INTAKE SWAP
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...t=359987&pp=10
http://www.actionspeedshop.com/parts...duct_info.html
Last edited by orang-kr8; 05-21-2009 at 11:58 PM.
05-22-2009, 08:19 AM
#19
Thanks for the link to that pulley relocation bracket.
And thanks for confirming my fears of tunnel fab. All I have is a cheap little MIG, its going to take forever to cut the floorboard
What can I say though, a 6-speed in a Chevelle is cooler to me than a LS engine (well, almost).
And thanks for confirming my fears of tunnel fab. All I have is a cheap little MIG, its going to take forever to cut the floorboard
What can I say though, a 6-speed in a Chevelle is cooler to me than a LS engine (well, almost).