GTO LS1 Swap Newbie
#1
GTO LS1 Swap Newbie
Hello everyone, just wanted to introduce myself.
I've purchased a 2004 GTO LS1 drop out that I'll be swapping into a unique little motor home. I've been studying the LS engines for about a year now, and have a lot to learn about this particular engine. The engine arrives in a few days, and the first thing I'll do is send the ECU off for VATS delete. My goal is to start it on the engine stand first, then do some 100k maintenance (timing chain, head gaskets, oil pump, etc.) before I start the install.
There's a lot of knowledge here, and I have a lot to learn. I'm sure I will follow with a lot of newbie questions.
Thanks!
I've purchased a 2004 GTO LS1 drop out that I'll be swapping into a unique little motor home. I've been studying the LS engines for about a year now, and have a lot to learn about this particular engine. The engine arrives in a few days, and the first thing I'll do is send the ECU off for VATS delete. My goal is to start it on the engine stand first, then do some 100k maintenance (timing chain, head gaskets, oil pump, etc.) before I start the install.
There's a lot of knowledge here, and I have a lot to learn. I'm sure I will follow with a lot of newbie questions.
Thanks!
#2
I am not sure if the other members would agree but save your self a lot of trouble and look into aftermarket ECU's I did both ways with my build, and found the aftermarket stuff is a lot more user friendly for making changes.
#4
It is for LS swaps in general, another thing to consider, it is a more clean installation and does not require you to de-pin a factory harness to remove the wires you don't need, plus the availability to program multiple inputs and outputs from the ECU for a bunch of stuff depending on what you may need.
#5
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Whoa there, slow down a bit... Unless the engine has blown head gaskets ( very unlikely ), there is absolutely zero reason to change them out. Same goes for the timing chain and oil pump. If you're stabbing this engine in completely stock, the only thing I would be doing is changing out the external gaskets. Valve covers, front and rear covers, oil pan, and front and rear main seals. And I'd only do that if there's signs that they're leaking. As for engine management, switching to something like Holley Terminator X will cost you around $1200-1800, and while easier to use, they're overkill for a stock engine swap. A factory computer, properly tuned, with a pared down wiring harness is likely to suffice for your needs. Many, MANY people have used stock engine management successfully for swaps.
#6
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Don't even send the ECU out for VATS delete. There is free tuning software that you can use that will only cost you less than $100 for the cable interface you will need. The GTO computer is one of the most capable factory computers that has such freeware available. You can do DBC or DBW throttle body, flex fuel, multi bar MAP sensors, lean cruise, over 200lb injectors, etc. There are even custom operating systems compatible with it for spark cut launch control, no-lift shift, and rev limits. You can also program it for a 4l80 instead of 4l60 transmission if running an auto. Unless you are a hardcore racer, there is no need at all for an aftermarket computer. As was previously mentioned, don't open the engine unless you are fixing a known problem. These motors routinely go over 300k miles in stock configuration.