STB's Arrive
Here is the one I was talking about earlier that comes pre-bent from GM:
I just worked on an '02 Impala today that had one.
1/4 flat steel will flex way too easily. You need to use something that is boxed like the GM brace. Honestly, for as cheap as these braces are you can't go wrong. You are better off buying the pair of braces and modifying the front one to clear the alternator. I'm not what that Impala one costs that I posted a pic of above, but when I get a chance I will find out. That one I stole the pic from is on ebay for $19 right now.
Talking bout the brackets not the actual strut tower brace. Don Rome makes some brackets so you don't have drill into the strut tower to mount the brace, he (Don Rome) makes them out of aluminum flat stock. Easy to work with. But steel is cheaper and I'm going to paint them to match the engine bay anyways.
Cherry said braces, thats why I was confused. The same guy also make billet core support braces that are flat stock. They are for show, not for strength IMO.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Brownsburg, IN
Yeah, the brackets to mount the bars is what I'm talking about 
Sorry for the confusion. We can buy the stb's cheap as crap, but the brackets so we don't have to drill is what I'm asking about, anywhere else to get those?
Sorry for the confusion. We can buy the stb's cheap as crap, but the brackets so we don't have to drill is what I'm asking about, anywhere else to get those? LS1 Tech Stories
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Oxford/Grand Blanc, MI
I used Don's brackets (excellent machining and worth the money IMO) and modified the braces myself.
All I needed to do was put the bar in my bench vise, below the jaws, into where the pipe clamp part is. The brace went on one side, and an impact socket went on the other side - sitting flush in the "dent" that is already there. A few turns of the vise handle and it was clearanced enough to not come close to even touching the alternator. The bar doesn't rub on the hood either from what I have seen, but I only look under the hood maybe once every two weeks or so to check the oil and fill up the washer fluid.
All I needed to do was put the bar in my bench vise, below the jaws, into where the pipe clamp part is. The brace went on one side, and an impact socket went on the other side - sitting flush in the "dent" that is already there. A few turns of the vise handle and it was clearanced enough to not come close to even touching the alternator. The bar doesn't rub on the hood either from what I have seen, but I only look under the hood maybe once every two weeks or so to check the oil and fill up the washer fluid.
