Whats the big deal with a cold air intake?
#22
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I used to hate them but after working some some high horsepower dodge and Gmc/chevy diesels i wasw very impressed by there air flow, ability to stop fine dirt, and i like the look of TruFlow design. All filters break down. But i happened to get mine for free. Found it in a used card PDI, brand new in the box lol. It quickly became mine, and now i have a good use for it. http://www.trueflow.com/
#23
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Not to start an argument, but you really can't compare dyno runs from two different shops/dynos with two different operators, let alone that they are several weeks apart.
Last edited by 08_SS; 03-01-2009 at 10:56 AM. Reason: changed months to weeks
#24
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i was searching for intake ideas and found this thread i think the only reasonsthe K and n kit works better are 1 the filter area is greater i crunched some numbers the cone is about 120ish sq in and our stock one is only like 80or so and using the equation k and n gives you you figure out that they recomend about 10-15 sq in more the second reason is the elbow which is an apparent restriction
im still deciding on what i want to do for an intake im torn between using the stock airboz and doing some gutting and modifications or using the sheetmetal one i made last summer and modifying that and getting a new filter that fits in there better.
however when i dynoed last summer i did PICK UP about 20 hp when i went back to stock from my mods i dont know if that was because of the intake the exhaust or the fact i had removed the MAF screen for the first run or because before the the stock run the car sat and cooled for an hour before hand- the dyno operator claimed that the graph looked mike my cat overtemp was adding un-needed fuel
im still deciding on what i want to do for an intake im torn between using the stock airboz and doing some gutting and modifications or using the sheetmetal one i made last summer and modifying that and getting a new filter that fits in there better.
however when i dynoed last summer i did PICK UP about 20 hp when i went back to stock from my mods i dont know if that was because of the intake the exhaust or the fact i had removed the MAF screen for the first run or because before the the stock run the car sat and cooled for an hour before hand- the dyno operator claimed that the graph looked mike my cat overtemp was adding un-needed fuel
Last edited by Pauls325; 04-06-2009 at 01:39 PM.
#25
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I bet your exhaust likely had the most to do with the HP gain. Most stock exhausts are pretty restrictive these days. Cars designed for the American market have to be able to pass emissions control in the strictest state (currently CA I think). GM doesn't like build one kind of Grand Prix for Cali and one for the other 49, we all get the same emissions control gunk needed to be legal in Cali.
For intake and exhaust the key point is are they in-sync. Like if your air intake is some kickass setup that lets you pull in 100 cubic inches of air every second (to make up a random number), but your exhaust only allows you to exit 80 cubic inches of air a second, then you might as well have an air intake that only allows for 80 cubic inches / second.
You have to be able to use the air your intake pulls in and get the waste product out the other end. Its more about getting a good system set up that is in balance than any one mod.
For intake and exhaust the key point is are they in-sync. Like if your air intake is some kickass setup that lets you pull in 100 cubic inches of air every second (to make up a random number), but your exhaust only allows you to exit 80 cubic inches of air a second, then you might as well have an air intake that only allows for 80 cubic inches / second.
You have to be able to use the air your intake pulls in and get the waste product out the other end. Its more about getting a good system set up that is in balance than any one mod.
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a properly designed air intake will make a difference, the stock box doesn't LOOK restrictive but it is compared to a properly designed one. We felt a difference on my buddies car AND saw data on my hptuners to prove it.
#28
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Speed I have done what you are suggesting a couple years ago when I bought my car.
I have a drop-in K&N and removed that 60mm inlet piece out of the stock box. Ran a GXP on the highway with that plus a Magnaflow exhaust, and both cars were dead equal. So IMO both "adders" didn't add anything.
Two weeks ago my MAF was funked up, causing the wacky parameters. So I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. I moved and can't find my re-oil kit so I dropped the stock filter back in.
Car now runs great, and I haven't noticed any power loss, only smoother running. You can have my K&N - just need to clean / oil it if postage is a cheaper way for you to go. PM me if you want it.
I'm sticking to the paper and the inlet tube removed, and opting for the smoother running engine.
I have a drop-in K&N and removed that 60mm inlet piece out of the stock box. Ran a GXP on the highway with that plus a Magnaflow exhaust, and both cars were dead equal. So IMO both "adders" didn't add anything.
Two weeks ago my MAF was funked up, causing the wacky parameters. So I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. I moved and can't find my re-oil kit so I dropped the stock filter back in.
Car now runs great, and I haven't noticed any power loss, only smoother running. You can have my K&N - just need to clean / oil it if postage is a cheaper way for you to go. PM me if you want it.
I'm sticking to the paper and the inlet tube removed, and opting for the smoother running engine.
#31
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Supposedly you're not supposed to put intakes on the 05 gxp's what years are you guys having problems with the intakes causing rough running? I have the same problem, hopefully a tune will fix that though.