wtf is with the rear tire wear?
#1
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wtf is with the rear tire wear?
When I bought my 07 SS the was no negative camber. Now at 23k the rear tires are down to the cord on the inside. I called gm dealer and they said it problem needs a alignment and its regular maintence and I need to be rotating tires. wtf??? it has negative camber???? I brought the car into my shop and had my honda techs look at it. They said there is not camber adjustments. Is this common on these cars? I bought a cam bolt kit and corrected the camber problem. I floored a 34k car would have these problem and gm is not more helpful.
#2
First off, I like your location!
Second, ask the dealer to show you in the owners manual were it say's to do an alignment every (what ever they say?). If its not existent, well then you have an legitimate dispute! Have them warranty it for sure, (they will, but will say this is the only time we will do this since you have been informed!).
Second, ask the dealer to show you in the owners manual were it say's to do an alignment every (what ever they say?). If its not existent, well then you have an legitimate dispute! Have them warranty it for sure, (they will, but will say this is the only time we will do this since you have been informed!).
Last edited by LS4SPEED; 04-01-2009 at 10:41 PM. Reason: S.P.
#3
My 08 SS has the same issue. I just replaced the rear tires because of wear on the inside of the tires.
I went to my local Firestone repair shop and bought a lifetime alignment. I plan to bring it in at least twice a year to have it re-aligned.
I agree, this is crap.
I went to my local Firestone repair shop and bought a lifetime alignment. I plan to bring it in at least twice a year to have it re-aligned.
I agree, this is crap.
#5
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Well basicly I was told thats not a problem they have and I must not have rotated the tires enough.. so no help. I bought 2 new bfg kdw's and camber cam bolts to adjust the rear camber. The tires are standing upright now.
#7
Is it really true that there is no adjustment on the rear? My alignment guy did the alignment and said it was really out. I assume since he was the one that pointed out the rear tires being bald on the inside, that he would know that the rear needed adjustment.
This is the kind of crap that makes everyone wonder why they bought a GM product. I love this Impala, but between this bs and the never ending brake shuddering I don't know. My car is a year old for Christmas sake.
This is the kind of crap that makes everyone wonder why they bought a GM product. I love this Impala, but between this bs and the never ending brake shuddering I don't know. My car is a year old for Christmas sake.
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#8
I spoke of this before many times but here it is again: (FOR ALL W-BODIES)
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/r...amberbolts.jpg
You can buy and install a set of camber correcting bolts aka "cam bolts" or "crash bolts" (illustrated above) which have eccentric shafts or heads that can be turned to increase or decrease camber by moving the bottom of the strut in or out.
I got 1 set at CARQUEST and the other at NAPA. Any auto parts jobber should be able to get them.
DO NOT GRIND OR CUT OR ALTER ANYTHING.
There are aftermarket cam bolts through all local autoparts outlets. Simply remove the upper of the two mounting bolts at the axel end of the strut, loosen the lower one set your camber then tighten both. Do all four corners of your car and problem is solved. GM stealerships will not do this for you. Go to a good alignment shop.
Get the shop to put all four on and reinstall your wheels, put the car back on the tables and give it multiple shakes. Then install their alignment equiptment and DO NOT LIFT THE CAR AGAIN UNTIL FINISHED!!! Now most shops have a inflatable pad or bag they can fit in between the tire and strut, inflate it on each wheel and set the camber for that wheel and lock it down.
Set all the alignment parameters to the min spec for your car and suspension package. Set the Toe at -0.05deg.
The bolts you need are called Camber Bolts (I have a part number 81260 if that helps)
You can change the top bolts out yourself and then take it to the alignment shop to save some bucks. Here in Canada my cost was like 40.00 a pair of bolts. But compared to the price of tires and the amasing increase in handling the have paid for themselves many times over.
Before your alignment fill your gas tank, it does make a difference!
AS for the BRAKE SHUDDER:
You need to remove and lubricate the slider /bolts they are not properly lubricated and for some reason the lubricant does not seem to stay there for long. I do mine every 10,000 kilometers with my tire rotation and HAVE NOT had the shudder since adopting this habit.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/r...amberbolts.jpg
You can buy and install a set of camber correcting bolts aka "cam bolts" or "crash bolts" (illustrated above) which have eccentric shafts or heads that can be turned to increase or decrease camber by moving the bottom of the strut in or out.
I got 1 set at CARQUEST and the other at NAPA. Any auto parts jobber should be able to get them.
DO NOT GRIND OR CUT OR ALTER ANYTHING.
There are aftermarket cam bolts through all local autoparts outlets. Simply remove the upper of the two mounting bolts at the axel end of the strut, loosen the lower one set your camber then tighten both. Do all four corners of your car and problem is solved. GM stealerships will not do this for you. Go to a good alignment shop.
Get the shop to put all four on and reinstall your wheels, put the car back on the tables and give it multiple shakes. Then install their alignment equiptment and DO NOT LIFT THE CAR AGAIN UNTIL FINISHED!!! Now most shops have a inflatable pad or bag they can fit in between the tire and strut, inflate it on each wheel and set the camber for that wheel and lock it down.
Set all the alignment parameters to the min spec for your car and suspension package. Set the Toe at -0.05deg.
The bolts you need are called Camber Bolts (I have a part number 81260 if that helps)
You can change the top bolts out yourself and then take it to the alignment shop to save some bucks. Here in Canada my cost was like 40.00 a pair of bolts. But compared to the price of tires and the amasing increase in handling the have paid for themselves many times over.
Before your alignment fill your gas tank, it does make a difference!
AS for the BRAKE SHUDDER:
You need to remove and lubricate the slider /bolts they are not properly lubricated and for some reason the lubricant does not seem to stay there for long. I do mine every 10,000 kilometers with my tire rotation and HAVE NOT had the shudder since adopting this habit.
#9
i had the same problem. Got new tires from warrenty b/c of this.. I been going to this dealer for a long time so they know i come in every 6-7,000 miles to get them rotated and i come in for alignments.. What you just bought, new camber bolts, is what fixes the problem.. Thats what they did to mine, replaced the camber bolts and after 6000 miles from this, i have no sign of tire wear in the rear.. The police package has this issue and that just went with the TSB and fixed mnine even though its not the police package..
#10
Ill_Born_SS great info.
I am getting new rubers and backs are very worn on the inside even after a few 4 wheel alligments at the stealer.
I did find some cheaper camber bolts for our cars though.
they run about $27 for a set of two. A friend with Subaru has been using these for a bit now. Gives you +2-2 adjustment range or +4-4 if you use two bolts per wheel.
http://www.ingallseng.com/mmy.php?ye...art=Camber Kit
I am getting new rubers and backs are very worn on the inside even after a few 4 wheel alligments at the stealer.
I did find some cheaper camber bolts for our cars though.
they run about $27 for a set of two. A friend with Subaru has been using these for a bit now. Gives you +2-2 adjustment range or +4-4 if you use two bolts per wheel.
http://www.ingallseng.com/mmy.php?ye...art=Camber Kit
#12
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single or double offset?
In looking on the internet I find two types of camber bolts, double offset at +/- 1 1/4 degree or single offset at +/- 1 3/4 degree. Which ones do we need for rear tire wear problem???