help me choose no2 kit
help me choose no2 kit I am getting a new toy for my gxp. I am either going with this dry no2 kit http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=118
or this wet no2 kit http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=115 The dry kit is 260 and the wet kit is 340. I was wanting to do at least a 100 shot with no tune. Also a wot switch would be nice. So which do you guys think would suite my needs?
or this wet no2 kit http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=115 The dry kit is 260 and the wet kit is 340. I was wanting to do at least a 100 shot with no tune. Also a wot switch would be nice. So which do you guys think would suite my needs?
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Joined: Feb 2009
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im in the same boat you are. One thing to check though on the wet kits. If remeber correctly our fuel systems are a dead head system and the ls1 have a return line. I notice some wet kits for the ls1 are designed for a return fuel system only.
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hey guys....im actually installing a Brand X wet kit from Nitro Daves...with an FJO controller...I would recommend the NGK tr6 plug to tone down the spark for a wet kit...less perf. while not spraying, but MIN. unoticable....mine is a wet kit with the option of 100 125 and 150 shots....measured at WHP!! NOT KNOCKN ZEX AT ALL EITHER..GOOD KIT FOR BUDGET..BUT, they also measure at the crank from what I have read...so to do the ration its ZEX=150 jet which is a 100 shot/jet to Nitro Outlet/Nitro Daves Brand X. Make sure you get a fuel pressure reg switch etc if running wet off the fuel rail..and monitor that fuel pressure too..I have 2 Aeroforces, one is on auxillaries for fuel and oil pressure...just info...but these LS motors will take it...I would recommend tunning with the nitro to make sure your getting the max amount of timing while at full throttle prior to your 52000rpm shift def tune if your trying a 150!!!!....you dont want progressive either...just my opinion...just saftey for the DOD...but get a good controller, I recommend an FJO...very easy to set up and all the tuners can def reconize them....it plugs right in with USB...and just check your slants for rpms....not on the progressive side though...
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Verdad Gallardo Hince why you need to tune with the nitrous....your exactly right on Panther...they actually have a new software coming out that allows USERS or drivers to switch modes....NA or No2 etc...cause they are completely diff. worlds...although...the ls1,ls2 and ls6 guys I run around with...are saying its safe to run a min of 100 shot without a tune.....but its either one or the other...let the factory NA compinsate prior to tune for the shot, but dont let the No2 in the system once the E67 has been "TUNED" for its own performance....
but just a flash fact....you would be on the idiot boat if you didnt tune for long term use of No2...you need to tune that in on its own tune...but do not use on a N/A tune as you said Panther...
with a wet kit its good practice to tune your a/f ratio on motor as you normally would, then tune the nitrous a/f with the fuel jet. I run 12.7-13.0:1 on motor and 11.5-12.0:1 on spray. It's a good idea to get a retard box to pull timing on the juice ~ 2* for every 50hp. I don't think its a good idea to run stock timing on any amount of NO with an LS4. My buddies car has 30* timing stock, I'd back that down at least 4* with a 100 shot. You are right about the TR-6's they are a great plug and I didn't notice a difference in power on motor with them, just be sure to gap them around .035". I also put some 9mm MSD's on there too since I ruined some of the stock ones while changing the plugs.
On my LS1 the stock timing was only like 24*, I run about 29* now on motor so the stock timing would be ok.
A dry kit is good because you can tune the engine to pull timing and add fuel when you hit the spray since then AIT's are going to drop drastically (not sure exactly how much since I don't have one but they do). Maybe a dry kit owner can chime in. The only downside I can think of with a dry kit is if your maf fails......boom!!
Either way I'd never add spray to any car without scanning/ tuning.....I think investing in a $500 tuner is better money spent than 3K for an engine but that just my opinion.
On my LS1 the stock timing was only like 24*, I run about 29* now on motor so the stock timing would be ok.
A dry kit is good because you can tune the engine to pull timing and add fuel when you hit the spray since then AIT's are going to drop drastically (not sure exactly how much since I don't have one but they do). Maybe a dry kit owner can chime in. The only downside I can think of with a dry kit is if your maf fails......boom!!
Either way I'd never add spray to any car without scanning/ tuning.....I think investing in a $500 tuner is better money spent than 3K for an engine but that just my opinion.
point well taken, im going to be very careful on this, im running a LC-1 wideband so i can hook up to it and monitor on the XD-16, gotta love that pig tail....lol. Ill let you guys know how it goes....
BTW, I have a zex kit and I love it. I'm pretty sure they are rated at the wheels too. Either way it doesn't matter, just jet to what you want and everything is gravy. They have a great nozzle design that helps keep constant a/f ratio no matter what the bottle pressure is (I noticed it does get richer when the bottle is near empty but at normal pressure 1100-700 psi its very consistent). It also has a TPS activated switch that activates electronically at WOT to prevent NO from spraying unless you are at WOT. Combined with an a window and proper tuning the system works flawless. I spray a 150 shot and the gains are just stupid. 
