BuffaLOW...SS
06-05-2009, 08:00 AM
#25
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Been thinking about this more and more, since I cannot stop the rubbing in the back. Not sure if 245's would help enough to make it stop permanently. However, there must be some adverse handling issues with running a stiffer spring in the front, compared to the stock spring in the rear...
06-05-2009, 11:00 AM
#26
Hey man
Looks Cool, I may have a solution for you. Inexpensive and you get to use the springs that are installed. No more destruction required.
First I need to know , did you install the lower spring rubber insulators?
Looks Cool, I may have a solution for you. Inexpensive and you get to use the springs that are installed. No more destruction required.
First I need to know , did you install the lower spring rubber insulators?
06-05-2009, 12:00 PM
#27
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I hoped you'd chime in...
I reinstalled everything from the original strut/spring setup.
BTW, I know you were concerned with the KYB's fitting properly, but as of today I haven't had any issue with the tire touching the perch. You also mentioned that it became an issue "over time." Maybe it's the +40 offset of the wheel that is making a difference in this instance.
FWIW, the guys at tirerack.com said that their note about the use of KYB's on the "special handling package" applied only to Police vehicles, not the FE3/FE4 setup.
I reinstalled everything from the original strut/spring setup.
BTW, I know you were concerned with the KYB's fitting properly, but as of today I haven't had any issue with the tire touching the perch. You also mentioned that it became an issue "over time." Maybe it's the +40 offset of the wheel that is making a difference in this instance.
FWIW, the guys at tirerack.com said that their note about the use of KYB's on the "special handling package" applied only to Police vehicles, not the FE3/FE4 setup.
06-05-2009, 12:45 PM
#28
I think the offset does have a lot to do with it as you say, due to the fact the tire damage I incurred was on the inner 1" of all tires. Good to know!
Now I think you can solve at least some of the problem with a repair/mod to the rear upper strut mounts. What is good about the rear mounts is the upper mount plates have longer studs on them than the fronts do.
What you can do is get a couple (2) of pieces of T6 6061 aluminum plate 12"x12"x 1/4" thick , any local metal supply will have that or call around the airport hangars they will probably give it to you.
With these plates you would sketch out and drill 4 holes in each one the same as the top mount ,3 holes for the studs to go through and one to get the saw blade through to cut the center out. (use a jig/saber saw, go slow as not to pack the teeth in the blades)
Make one for each side and clean it up with a file does not have to be perfect. Then at a local parts store you can get 1/16" rubber sheet or rubberized gasket material and some 3M weather strip adhesive and apply a layer to the side of the new plates that will be on the body side of the car.
Now slide the plates over the top strut mount and put it back into the body mount and torque it to 25 ft lbs all three on each side. Then do all again to 33ft lbs.
In theroy it will give you a min. 1/4", but it will be more, by up to 1/2"at the wheel.
If this is not enough then you can repeate it with up to 1 more homemade shim per side but you will have to change the studs out for longer ones. They are just pressed in, no biggie to remove. These plates will not affect ride, stability or alignment. (once you have it aligned)
Good Luck
let me know!
Now I think you can solve at least some of the problem with a repair/mod to the rear upper strut mounts. What is good about the rear mounts is the upper mount plates have longer studs on them than the fronts do.
What you can do is get a couple (2) of pieces of T6 6061 aluminum plate 12"x12"x 1/4" thick , any local metal supply will have that or call around the airport hangars they will probably give it to you.
With these plates you would sketch out and drill 4 holes in each one the same as the top mount ,3 holes for the studs to go through and one to get the saw blade through to cut the center out. (use a jig/saber saw, go slow as not to pack the teeth in the blades)
Make one for each side and clean it up with a file does not have to be perfect. Then at a local parts store you can get 1/16" rubber sheet or rubberized gasket material and some 3M weather strip adhesive and apply a layer to the side of the new plates that will be on the body side of the car.
Now slide the plates over the top strut mount and put it back into the body mount and torque it to 25 ft lbs all three on each side. Then do all again to 33ft lbs.
In theroy it will give you a min. 1/4", but it will be more, by up to 1/2"at the wheel.
If this is not enough then you can repeate it with up to 1 more homemade shim per side but you will have to change the studs out for longer ones. They are just pressed in, no biggie to remove. These plates will not affect ride, stability or alignment. (once you have it aligned)
Good Luck
let me know!
Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; 06-05-2009 at 01:34 PM. Reason: spelling
06-08-2009, 10:58 AM
#29
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Thanks for that idea...I know just the guy to do this, too (donrome...he made the aluminum brackets for the STB's. I'll need to find someone who has a spare mount sitting around to draw a template with...I wouldn't trust doing it with what's visible through the trunk.
I've trimmed a lot of the fender liner and it still rubs. I haven't gotten around to painting the QP lip, but once I do that, I'll know for sure if it's rubbing on that, or just the liner.
I've trimmed a lot of the fender liner and it still rubs. I haven't gotten around to painting the QP lip, but once I do that, I'll know for sure if it's rubbing on that, or just the liner.
