Brake Help
09-05-2009, 10:45 AM
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Brake Help Ok on my 08 GXP I just put ceramic pads up front. I can not get the pass side to stop squealing during little to heavy preasure when braking I have taken it apart twice now cleaned everything and regreased all the parts. It is driving me up the wall. HELP ! ! what do I need to do to get it to stop????
09-05-2009, 02:50 PM
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try bedding the pads. This is from Baer Brakes:
I hope this helps but in all honesty, if you own a GXP, I highly recommend a rotor turn or replacement to kill the noise and allow your pads to last. I had to straight up replace my rotors at 16k miles.
Pad Bedding for Street or Light Track Applications
provided by Baer Brake Systems.
Bedding brake pads has a couple of important effects. The friction material in semi-metallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils, and burns, from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or "Bedding" takes place the friction material makes proper contact with the rotor.
Some race/performance pads, like the Performance Friction line of pads, are designated as "pre-burnished" from the manufacturer. In our experience these pads still benefit from "bedding". Bedding pads establishes a wear pattern between the pads and rotor. Some pads, like the Performance Friction pads, deposit a layer of carbon in the surface of the rotor. They need that layer of carbon to perform at peak efficiency.
Most Baer Claw systems which are equipped with PBR calipers, SS/DRAG, SPORT, TRACK, and TRACK+, come standard with metallic pads. However, PBR based A-SEDAN systems, as well as PRO-RACE and PRO-RACE+ Systems with the Alcon calipers feature carbon metallic pads from either Pagid, Performance Friction or Tekstar.
Bedding Metallic or Carbon/Metallic Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)
1. Note: Never Bed pads on rotors which have not first been Seasoned. Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.
2. Perform four repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
3. Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
4. Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
5. Perform three light stops in succession.
6. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
7. Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad Bedded. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to Bed the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.
When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won't grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.
Racers should Bed a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of Bedded pads. Racing on non-bedded pads leads to a type of fade caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called green fade. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or crossdrilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.
provided by Baer Brake Systems.
Bedding brake pads has a couple of important effects. The friction material in semi-metallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils, and burns, from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or "Bedding" takes place the friction material makes proper contact with the rotor.
Some race/performance pads, like the Performance Friction line of pads, are designated as "pre-burnished" from the manufacturer. In our experience these pads still benefit from "bedding". Bedding pads establishes a wear pattern between the pads and rotor. Some pads, like the Performance Friction pads, deposit a layer of carbon in the surface of the rotor. They need that layer of carbon to perform at peak efficiency.
Most Baer Claw systems which are equipped with PBR calipers, SS/DRAG, SPORT, TRACK, and TRACK+, come standard with metallic pads. However, PBR based A-SEDAN systems, as well as PRO-RACE and PRO-RACE+ Systems with the Alcon calipers feature carbon metallic pads from either Pagid, Performance Friction or Tekstar.
Bedding Metallic or Carbon/Metallic Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)
1. Note: Never Bed pads on rotors which have not first been Seasoned. Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.
2. Perform four repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
3. Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
4. Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
5. Perform three light stops in succession.
6. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
7. Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad Bedded. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to Bed the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.
When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won't grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.
Racers should Bed a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of Bedded pads. Racing on non-bedded pads leads to a type of fade caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called green fade. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or crossdrilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.
09-07-2009, 11:03 AM
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I will try that, but I did do something like that. Both sides did squeal with the old stock pads and when I replaced the pads, the driver side stoped just not the pass side??????? Where is a good place to order rotors.
