DP 08 GXP

iTrader: (3)

agree with ya on that....soon enough it will be gone though

bigboy3l

[QUOTE=Count of Monte Carlo;12696774]Well when I went to get my new tires the tech said my front bearings were worn... I'm like "?????" Sure enough they were not only worn but very worn. Got a front set of Ebay bearings for $110 Shipped. They dont have the brake rotor retention screw boss.QUOTE]

How long did it take you to change the two hubs?

I recently changed all four Rotors and am kicking my self that I did not do the front hubs at that time as a preventative no issues yet, but am over 50 k miles now.
It is cold out and I really don't feel like working on it unless I have to LOL.

SidewaysV8

[QUOTE=bigboy3l;12722470]If you decide to do it, better have a slide hammer. If you don't, I'd look into renting/buying one.

Count of Monte Carlo

Well the torque strut is one thing, but if you use polyurethane as a main mount you will take all the refinement out of the driveline.

Count of Monte Carlo

[QUOTE=bigboy3l;12722470]About 3 hours total for the whole job. For the mounting bolts of the Bearing, use only a 6point 13mm 3/8 socket, as it is really the only tool that can fit back there. But you might be able to save yourself the work and money of changing them.... Check your wheel bearing by raising the car and push/pulling on the wheel with one hand on top and one hand on the bottom. If it's good, then get I belive is a 34mm axle nut socket, and crank down on the nut to 140lbs ft. I set mine to 150 because 140 still seems too low for an axle bearing and right now I do not trust GM on this issue.

Count of Monte Carlo

[QUOTE=SidewaysV8;12722648]The knuckles being aluminum does not rust up the sides of the bearings. Once you undo bearing will happily come out of the knuckle. The only thing you might need is a 2 or prefereably 3 jaw puller to press out an obstinant drive axle from the bearing.

SidewaysV8

[QUOTE=Count of Monte Carlo;12725412]You weren't around when I changed the rear hubs on my 97' GTP. I actually broke the slide hammer removing the left rear. Aluminum and cast iron are dissimiliar metals. You've never heard of galvanic corrosion I guess.

Count of Monte Carlo

Meh, I guess I'm too strong then.

Obvioulsy there is always some corrosion but they were never so obstinant for me. Older W-bodys, those I had to slam out, and that was only in the rear of which the knuckle was iron back then.

Case for the front though, they are fitted rather loosely, and have some coating on them, so a slide hammer is not of nesessity. The only thing to worry about is the the pushing the CV joint out of the bearing. For me that was the only thing that was frozen.