HID alternative?
#41
And yeah, all the retunes will suck. I may end up skipping the one after the headers and wait for the converter or intake.
#42
im not married either but it would be way out of control to stiff her on valentines day and buy myself headers that arent absolutely necessary. i would definitely wait till after the intake and the headers to retune.
#43
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Looks nice. Thanks for the pics. Not to have you going crazy or anything, but do you have any pics of how it looks, say, if you're standing right outside of the door looking straight on with the car?
I just picked up OSRAM Night Break bulbs. I got them on ebay for $25 shipped which is about half the cost they normally run. I'll take some side by side comparison shots and post them when I put them in. I might get some HIDs for the projector fogs and just stick with halogens for the head lights.
Here is a link to a comparison review on a Nissan Altima: LINK
I just picked up OSRAM Night Break bulbs. I got them on ebay for $25 shipped which is about half the cost they normally run. I'll take some side by side comparison shots and post them when I put them in. I might get some HIDs for the projector fogs and just stick with halogens for the head lights.
Here is a link to a comparison review on a Nissan Altima: LINK
Last edited by RickAKATed10; 02-04-2010 at 03:29 PM.
#44
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Guys, for the record...let me go out and say that the DDM tuning kit is quality. I have 35w 3k H11 bulbs in my foglights and 35w 6k H11 bulbs in the headlights. The ballasts are durable and have OEM connectors. The 35w kit has near the same draw as the factory halogens. It is the 55w kit that starts to get you in trouble. I have no start up problems, no flickering, and no bugs to speak of. I just start the car up, the bulbs warm up and I am good to go.
If you are looking for HID lighting in the stock housings for relatively cheap, then go ahead and get some DDM units. They are perfect for us without stepping up to a projector retrofit. I never get flashed or complaints about my lights so besides a more even light out put and a straighter cut off, there is no huge benefit, and yes I'm aware that HID bulbs should not be used in Halogen reflector housings.
Here's a pic of the lighting on my car...
If you are looking for HID lighting in the stock housings for relatively cheap, then go ahead and get some DDM units. They are perfect for us without stepping up to a projector retrofit. I never get flashed or complaints about my lights so besides a more even light out put and a straighter cut off, there is no huge benefit, and yes I'm aware that HID bulbs should not be used in Halogen reflector housings.
Here's a pic of the lighting on my car...
#45
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I just bought a set of the 35W 5000K for the headlights...it was only $44 bucks...that's with shipping....I wanted the fog's too but the return policy is a bit strange...so I went with one pair to start....
Anyone want before/after pics or anything??
Anyone want before/after pics or anything??
#46
Looks nice. Thanks for the pics. Not to have you going crazy or anything, but do you have any pics of how it looks, say, if you're standing right outside of the door looking straight on with the car?
I just picked up OSRAM Night Break bulbs. I got them on ebay for $25 shipped which is about half the cost they normally run. I'll take some side by side comparison shots and post them when I put them in. I might get some HIDs for the projector fogs and just stick with halogens for the head lights.
Here is a link to a comparison review on a Nissan Altima: LINK
I just picked up OSRAM Night Break bulbs. I got them on ebay for $25 shipped which is about half the cost they normally run. I'll take some side by side comparison shots and post them when I put them in. I might get some HIDs for the projector fogs and just stick with halogens for the head lights.
Here is a link to a comparison review on a Nissan Altima: LINK
#47
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What exactly do you mean "OEM connectors?" Are they making these plug and play now? I haven't really kept up w/the HID options, since deciding to just go w/the PIAAs 3 years ago. After following this thread, I may need to re-assess my lighting choices. If they're this inexpensive now, as reliable as you say, and I don't have to spend hours, cutting, splicing, and re-wiring my car, I may just give them a shot.
#48
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What exactly do you mean "OEM connectors?" Are they making these plug and play now? I haven't really kept up w/the HID options, since deciding to just go w/the PIAAs 3 years ago. After following this thread, I may need to re-assess my lighting choices. If they're this inexpensive now, as reliable as you say, and I don't have to spend hours, cutting, splicing, and re-wiring my car, I may just give them a shot.
#49
I have never had any flickering or warm up problems either and I live in WI where it gets plenty cold. 5000K is the closest to factory HID color in the 35W. Any higher and it starts to get more blue. 55W is not needed unless you want to see into the future! This is a great kit guys and like Nacho said its plug and play on MOST cars. Some of them require a little re-wiring. IDK what kits do but my 5202 fogs in my G8 did.
#54
with the warm up time is there any out there that doesnt warm up they just come on bright are they when there warming up?o What size bulb do i need to buy?
Last edited by mp4life23; 02-12-2010 at 03:35 PM.
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two things here guys with my headlights http://www.luminicsusa.com/ "Pure Blue" H11 Bulbs can set your car off same wattage, etc. So no worries on burned connectors. It'll certainly give you an nice HID look. I think they run around $38.50 for a set!
And heres where I installed the silverstar parking/indicator bulbs in a "bright white" bulb and just put the blue bulb cover over them! hehe!
And heres where I installed the silverstar parking/indicator bulbs in a "bright white" bulb and just put the blue bulb cover over them! hehe!
#57
That 30 second warm up time is where the most power is drawn. This is where you can have problems and damage to the wiring can occur. The addition of two relay harness sets will save the day. They run about $20-25 if you buy them premade. Or you can make your own for less than $10 each. Just a safety net, most don't have problems, but some do. I just would like you all the be aware of the potential of overcurrent draw on the factory wiring, use it as you want you have been informed.
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That 30 second warm up time is where the most power is drawn. This is where you can have problems and damage to the wiring can occur. The addition of two relay harness sets will save the day. They run about $20-25 if you buy them premade. Or you can make your own for less than $10 each. Just a safety net, most don't have problems, but some do. I just would like you all the be aware of the potential of overcurrent draw on the factory wiring, use it as you want you have been informed.
#59