kyb struts
You can also do KYB AGX's from a previous generation wbody. You would need the sway bar endlinks and lower control arms. This gets a little pricey.
You can also do KYB AGX's from a previous generation wbody. You would need the sway bar endlinks and lower control arms. This gets a little pricey.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I had some KYB GR2 installed on my Impala base.
While far better than the stock, 0W-05 soup-filled struts, they are not high performance struts by any stretch of the imagination.
One rear Bilstein cost me about $215 + $47 shipping from GM Parts Direct.
I had some KYB GR2 installed on my Impala base.
While far better than the stock, 0W-05 soup-filled struts, they are not high performance struts by any stretch of the imagination.
One rear Bilstein cost me about $215 + $47 shipping from GM Parts Direct.
KYB supposedly redesigned their struts (raised the spring perch) to accomodate this issue with the FE3/FE4 performance suspension, but it's still not right, since even their new version will touch the tire. Clearance with the original GR-2's while sitting is fine...you have about a finger's thickness with stock wheels...but as the tire gets hot and expands, it will rub. The AGX (performance adjustable) is no different.
If I can find the pics of mine, I'll show you the damage. I have GR-2's and SSC springs installed right now, but plan to replace the struts as soon as I can.
The major issue is, again, the spring perch. If someone were to re-drill the mounting holes (if that's even able to be done safely), I suppose you could remount the strut and have the plate sit the 1/2" higher it needs to be. I haven't looked at the setup in the rear recently, but when I take off the tires for my next _______ repair, I'll see if I can do this and save the time/$$ that will need to be invested to reinstall the OE struts.

And these are the ones that don't...

It doesn't look like there is enough room to re-drill the holes as needed for the 1/2" clearance we need. I suppose that you could elongate the holes to get close, but what (besides a ****-load of torque) is going to keep the weight of the car from blowing the knuckle/assembly right back up to the original resting spot?
Typically, for alignment purposes, they do this but it's a side-to-side adjustment, not up & down.





