Intake question
Intake question Well Im getting ready to install my ported intake and throttle body that I bought off imnmbr1 . My question is do I leave the spacer on or off ? Thanks
My 2 cents: If it is a smooth bore spacer, leave it on, it will effectively increase the volume of the intake manifold, although only a very minor amount, and that helps. If the spacer has grooves or a spiral machined in the bore, then remove it. It will make an annoying whistle. You can of course remove the grooves or spiral in the bore of the spacer by grinding or sanding it.
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From: bear,delaware
i didnt say it did or didnt work thats one of them well it work for me but not for the next guy I'm saying if he thought it worked in the first place then leave it on there it cant hurt hey but that was my 2 cents
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This is to me a very funny topic.
Orginally these spacers were designed to increase top end and decrease fuel puddeling in the lower plenum of carbureated engines.
There has not ever been any positive proof of them working for any other reason...
Why do you think the engineers went through such rigor to put screens and airflow dynamics in our MAF`s to straighten the air flow and ensure it would work in all conditions and up to and including 500+ horsepower.
To me some clown has found a way to get $50.00 per ounce of alum.
Leave it out and stay with your stock MAF, unless you have money to burn and a really good tuner!
Orginally these spacers were designed to increase top end and decrease fuel puddeling in the lower plenum of carbureated engines.
There has not ever been any positive proof of them working for any other reason...
Why do you think the engineers went through such rigor to put screens and airflow dynamics in our MAF`s to straighten the air flow and ensure it would work in all conditions and up to and including 500+ horsepower.
To me some clown has found a way to get $50.00 per ounce of alum.
Leave it out and stay with your stock MAF, unless you have money to burn and a really good tuner!
This is to me a very funny topic.
Orginally these spacers were designed to increase top end and decrease fuel puddeling in the lower plenum of carbureated engines.
There has not ever been any positive proof of them working for any other reason...To me some clown has found a way to get $50.00 per ounce of alum.
Orginally these spacers were designed to increase top end and decrease fuel puddeling in the lower plenum of carbureated engines.
There has not ever been any positive proof of them working for any other reason...To me some clown has found a way to get $50.00 per ounce of alum.
Why do you think the engineers went through such rigor to put screens and airflow dynamics in our MAF`s to straighten the air flow and ensure it would work in all conditions and up to and including 500+ horsepower.
Leave it out and stay with your stock MAF, unless you have money to burn and a really good tuner
Leave it out and stay with your stock MAF, unless you have money to burn and a really good tuner
Last edited by JDMC5; Dec 31, 2010 at 12:48 PM.
Will I need a special tools to swap my intake? Any tips? I have the torque specs and sequence to tighten already. I just have basic skills but I'm certain I can do it , just saving to get it tuned by a different tuner.THANKS
Sockets, combination wrenches, inch pound tork wrench maybe, screwdrivers etc.. You will need a special tool to separate the fuel line, but thats cheap. The bolt under the alternator bracket is a tough one to access. I suggest one of two things, either get a swivel head ratcheting box wrench from Sears etc. or 2. use a fair size stepped drill bit to drill a hole in the cast aluminum bracket to access the bolt head under it.
Make sure all sealing surfaces are very clean.
Make sure all sealing surfaces are very clean.