With the speaker level inputs so it'd be "easy".

FML. I won't do this again. I think I'll just pay the $75 installation fee next time. Actually, since I'm not done yet there's a distinct possibility it isn't right and I'm going to end up paying it anyway. I'm not sure stereo installation is my forte.

 

What kind of amp are you wiring? Factory or aftermarket?

 

yeah, im still hesitating "finishing" mine, because im sure i must have done something wrong, or not quite tight enough and a week after buttoning it all up it will probably **** out on me and ill have to tear it all back apart ...

the amp, or at least running the power wire, was the hardest part of my whole headunit/ speakers/ sub thing ...

i just had the guy/ installer i bought everything from help run it, and traded him a 6 pack ... and even he was like "man, this monte carlo is a bitch to run wires through"

 

So my only issues are 1) I don't pick up radio signal anymore...think I lost power to the antenna and 2) I'm not 100% sure I have the correct wire hooked up to remote.

I'm worried the car's going to be dead in the morning, I'm not sure that the amp is turning off.

 

This amp is staying on even without a remote wire hooked up...I don't understand what's doing this, or how i'm going to get it to stop. Any ideas?

 

In the morning I will post up a pic of where my remote is wired into on the passenger side. where did you tap into he speaker level outputs?

 

did you do an aftermarket head unit and run the remote wire properly, because that is all the amp needs to turn on and off with the ignition, if not ... all you have to do is find some other switched source, and run the remote wire from it to the amp ...

im not entirely sure the voltage necessary and all that for it to work properly when not using a head unit with the proper signal ...

so whats your setup consist of, new HU, new speakers ... amp for the speakers or amp for the sub ?

i know my head unit needed an adapter to work with the stock antenna plug in, and needed that stupid adapter to retain onstar, and chimes and all that **** ... basically all it does it make sure the car doesnt throw codes from having everything torn out ( stupid security features ) because i love not hearing the turn signals anymore

 

remote needs to be 12V just like the supply line for most amps

 

so if hes not using an different HU, all he has to do is find a switched 12V line and tap into it ?

 

Alabamaguy, are you installing a aftermarket amp or messing with the stock one? What are you trying to hook up the amp to? You should only have three connections that are included to successfully hook up an amp: power, ground, and preout wires. The power wire should run on opposite sides of the pre-out wires to avoid interference. Most modern pre-out wires have a remote wire ran in between the pre-out wires, so you will not need to run that wire. If your amp is not turning off, then you did not or have not installed the remote wire correctly. I know on my setup, I do not need a remote wire because JL Audio amps turn on and off by the pre-out wires. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, I can help you with this, this is one of my specialties because I have worked in car audio and installed several systems in many vehicles.

 

exactly. mine it tapped into an accessory but I have to look to remember which one.

 

Ok, it is turning off, it just comes on when a door is opened. My only issue now is the fm antenna.

For those curious its a stock hu with aftermarket amp and speakers.

 

Ok, it is turning off, it just comes on when a door is opened. My only issue now is the fm antenna.

For those curious its a stock hu with aftermarket amp and speakers.

 

Here is a pic of where my remote wire is tapped in. It is on the passenger side fuse box. I do not know the function of the wire but it powers on/off with the HU perfectly. I am not sure if the SS cars have the same fuse box. it is the blue clip on the upper left yellow wire.

 

you should have bought a cleansweep,and tapped into the speaker wire to hook up the aftermarket amp IMO.

 

The amp has speaker level inputs.

 

Honestly it is "easier" to replace everything and run rca's. I am not sure if yours is the same but this may help. The amp trigger wire is pink and you should be able to use this for a remote wire and it will turn on and off with the radio.

2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Violet/White
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Purple/White
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the rear deck in the trunk.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
Left Subwoofer Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue/White (at amplifier)
Left Subwoofer Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Black (at amplifier)
Right Subwoofer Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green (at amplifier)
Right Subwoofer Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/Black (at amplifier)

 

Nailed it.

 

Speaker level inputs are the way to go if your amp has them. Theres less connections, less areas to introduce noise.

 

Yeah I'm not having any issues and the sound is super clear. Now, anyone know how to fix the antenna?