GXP cam swap question
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GXP cam swap question So one of the great lifters that GM has been making has decided to collapse in my 06 gxp with less than 20,000 miles. Im gonna change all he lifters while im in there, also Im really considering swapping out the cam seeing as the lifters are out already, why not right?? Now all ive done so far was a K&N air intake and Magnaflow catback. Frim what Ive read i really should be putting on headers and LS6 intake to get the benifits of a new cam, but would a cam make a differnece with out the other mods yet? If so what are some good choices? the GM performace cams like the 02-04 ls6 cam, or aftermarket?
Would i need to do some tuning after i swap the cam?
Would i need to do some tuning after i swap the cam?
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Kansas City MO
to get the full benefits of a cam you are right, you would need the supporting mods in order to make good gains. However, consider the following..... If you indeed want to mod your car this much, you will not get the substantial gains that other RWD platforms will. You will only further your traction issues and your tranny will fail much faster therefore, needing more modifications to handle your new found power.... If I were you, I would not waste my money on doing this because it is going to cost soooo much to gain sooo little.... Save your money toward a car that you can mod and make better gains outta for the money..... This is just MHO, so do what you want with your car, it is your money.... The only mods that I plan on doing in the future is headers, custom dyno tune, and 3 inch exhaust and call it quits. I plan on saving for another LS platform car or trading in the Monte for a larger SUV and getting a LS platformed car.....
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Joined: Jan 2011
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Or because you enjoy your car and don't want another money pit, do the swap and the internal work, take it easy until you can afford the trans upgrade, then mod some more, and then show all the deserters what they're missing. 
EDIT: Better to be different than do the same exact build everyone does on F-bodies.
EDIT: Better to be different than do the same exact build everyone does on F-bodies.
I personally wouldn't do the cam until you have the supporting mods. And get with good tuner and get a custom grind cam for your application. There's been several cam swaps that did not yield the results they were looking for. Sittingmongoose has spent quite a bit, and IIRC he's around 330whp. You gotta pay to play, and with these cars it's more than usual lol.
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 446
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
Hey, here's what I would do if I were doing the cam thing again and ditching DOD. Thunder Racing is a site sponser, and I like their aggressive ramp rate cams a lot.
DOD Delete Kit:
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...e-Kit_930.html
N/A Cam, needs to be mated to PAC-1218's or equivalent, chromoly pushrods, and you can reuse the stock rockers:
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...-Cams_947.html
Bigger Lift N/A cam, needs to be mated to PAC-1219's or equivalent, chromoly pushrods, and requires aftermarket roller rockers:
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...hafts_972.html
N/A and N2O cam, needs to be mated to PAC-1219's or equivalent, chromoly pushrods, and requires aftermarket roller rockers:
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...-Cams_944.html
I was looking around in case advancing my cam didn't do what I wanted it to do. These are all appropriately sized for a street/strip 5.3L. My favorite is the last one, because the extra exhaust duration should help with our single pipe system and wider LSA should help the cam hold on a bit and match with our 4 speeds pretty well. It just needs the roller rockers too. Despite the quote, the PAC-1219s support up to 0.625" lift and because they weigh significantly less you will not need the titanium retainers. They are a new offering.
IMO, if you are going to do the cam you will need the intake at the very least, but you could do that later. You won't see the gains you want now, but you'll notice something.
DOD Delete Kit:
Delete the D.O.D. (Displacement on Demand) system from your GM vehicle with Thunder Racing's D.O.D. Delete Kit.
Kit Includes:
-GM LS7 Lifters
-GM Valley Cover
-GM Lifter Trays
-GM Head Bolts
Kit Includes:
-GM LS7 Lifters
-GM Valley Cover
-GM Lifter Trays
-GM Head Bolts
N/A Cam, needs to be mated to PAC-1218's or equivalent, chromoly pushrods, and you can reuse the stock rockers:
"TR 220-112" - 220/220 .551/.551 112 LSA 1500-6500 RPM Power Band. Computer Tuning Required with automatic transmission cars. A very well balanced camshaft that makes excellent power across the entire RPM range. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.
Bigger Lift N/A cam, needs to be mated to PAC-1219's or equivalent, chromoly pushrods, and requires aftermarket roller rockers:
"TR TRuTorq" Level 1 - 219/224 .609/.604 115 LSA 1800-6500 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Great bottom end and mid-range torque. Requires computer tuning on automatic transmission cars. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.
N/A and N2O cam, needs to be mated to PAC-1219's or equivalent, chromoly pushrods, and requires aftermarket roller rockers:
"CheaTR" - 214/230 .601/.575 117 LSA. Off Idle-6800 RPM Power Band. Broad power range. Works well with stock exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters. Stock like idle. Minor tuning required on automatic transmission cars. Responds very well to nitrous. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended. Double valve springs and titanium retainers required for this cam.
I was looking around in case advancing my cam didn't do what I wanted it to do. These are all appropriately sized for a street/strip 5.3L. My favorite is the last one, because the extra exhaust duration should help with our single pipe system and wider LSA should help the cam hold on a bit and match with our 4 speeds pretty well. It just needs the roller rockers too. Despite the quote, the PAC-1219s support up to 0.625" lift and because they weigh significantly less you will not need the titanium retainers. They are a new offering.
IMO, if you are going to do the cam you will need the intake at the very least, but you could do that later. You won't see the gains you want now, but you'll notice something.
Last edited by nmp0098; Feb 1, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
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So one of the great lifters that GM has been making has decided to collapse in my 06 gxp with less than 20,000 miles. Im gonna change all he lifters while im in there, also Im really considering swapping out the cam seeing as the lifters are out already, why not right?? Now all ive done so far was a K&N air intake and Magnaflow catback. Frim what Ive read i really should be putting on headers and LS6 intake to get the benifits of a new cam, but would a cam make a differnece with out the other mods yet? If so what are some good choices? the GM performace cams like the 02-04 ls6 cam, or aftermarket?
Would i need to do some tuning after i swap the cam?
Would i need to do some tuning after i swap the cam?
Yes! Now, is the time to cam! I wish I would have. I find myself wondering what if.. all of the freaking time
You can always add headers and intake later on in life. NMP listed some nice cams.
I'd contact http://guerragroup.com/camshaft_help.htm for help with cam selection.
Stock cam is
197/197 .286/.286 DOD lobes
193/193 .283/.283 Non DOD lobes
114LSA
You'll need a LS2 valley cover from Katec
LS4 head bolt kit
Head gaskets GM LS4
Balancer bolt
LS7 lifters
Matching valve springs
7.4" Molly push rods
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Verdad Gallardo [QUOTE=nmp0098;14442408]
My favorite is the last one, because the extra exhaust duration should help with our single pipe system and wider LSA should help the cam hold on a bit and match with our 4 speeds pretty well.
Thats a lot of exhaust duration man. Might kill mid range torque by cutting into the power stroke too early. Great cam for N20 with 4 inch bores.
People tend to forget that we only have a 3.78" bore.
I hate DT headers for this reason. They use 1 7/8" primarys. Great way to kill torque. I'd like to see 1 5/8" primarys.
My favorite is the last one, because the extra exhaust duration should help with our single pipe system and wider LSA should help the cam hold on a bit and match with our 4 speeds pretty well.
Thats a lot of exhaust duration man. Might kill mid range torque by cutting into the power stroke too early. Great cam for N20 with 4 inch bores.
People tend to forget that we only have a 3.78" bore.
I hate DT headers for this reason. They use 1 7/8" primarys. Great way to kill torque. I'd like to see 1 5/8" primarys.
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 446
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From: Farmington Hills, MI
That cam may not be perfect, but it is in the ball park. My current cam has 232 degrees of exhaust duration, and a pretty early exhaust valve openimg after advancing the hell out of it. I'm making a ton of mid range torque at the moment. I'm also dumping through a cat and the stock mufflers. A final point is that the advertised duration for the stocker is large. It's so large that my exhaust valve opens after it would with the stock cam.
I believe that Katech unit is a bit expensive. I'd just cut and weld a Gen IV non-DOD valley cover like what comes from Thunder Racing. The kit is like $300 including the lifters. But, nothing wrong for springing for the easier Katech piece.
Dave, are you sure the TR220 has the same cam base radius as the stock cam? Unless you mill the heads, you should need longer pushrods to get the correct lifter pre-load. That's why I have 7.45" chromoly push rods. If you mill the heads, it tends to swing to 7.35" or so unless you have a really lumpy cam. A pushrod length checker is $20 from comp cams.
I wish you had stuck with that TR220 as well. I really think you would have liked the result. There's something about a choppy idle in Grand Prix that makes me smile every time.
I believe that Katech unit is a bit expensive. I'd just cut and weld a Gen IV non-DOD valley cover like what comes from Thunder Racing. The kit is like $300 including the lifters. But, nothing wrong for springing for the easier Katech piece.
Dave, are you sure the TR220 has the same cam base radius as the stock cam? Unless you mill the heads, you should need longer pushrods to get the correct lifter pre-load. That's why I have 7.45" chromoly push rods. If you mill the heads, it tends to swing to 7.35" or so unless you have a really lumpy cam. A pushrod length checker is $20 from comp cams.
I wish you had stuck with that TR220 as well. I really think you would have liked the result. There's something about a choppy idle in Grand Prix that makes me smile every time.
"There's something about a choppy idle in Grand Prix that makes me smile every time."
Today a buddy told me to call him before I get to his house so he could step outside to hear "that beast" coming up the hill.
Today a buddy told me to call him before I get to his house so he could step outside to hear "that beast" coming up the hill.
Dave, are you sure the TR220 has the same cam base radius as the stock cam? Unless you mill the heads, you should need longer pushrods to get the correct lifter pre-load. That's why I have 7.45" chromoly push rods. If you mill the heads, it tends to swing to 7.35" or so unless you have a really lumpy cam. A pushrod length checker is $20 from comp cams.
That pushrod checker is a good idea.. I just might have to pick one up.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Minot, ND
ok rookie question probably, but is it possible to keep DoD with a LS6 cam? i only ask because the gxp is my wifes car and she loves that her car has ample power and we're still averaging around 20 mpg here on base (30 mph speed limit and lots of stop and go).
No. And if you want a factory can that will male greater power look into the ls2 cam
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 193
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From: NC
I am pretty sure there are other dod cams out there I just don't remember much about it. There was a write up about swapping in a new dod cam though.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 193
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From: NC
Honestly I tuned out DOD and I still see 20 mpg even when I go cruising and beat on it. It is my daily driver that sees a decent amount of highway but on the weekends its sometimes up to 3 hours of cruising around with lights and it still averages out to 20 mpg. So if you get it properly tuned you probably won't see a hit in mpg because honestly I got the same mpg when I still had dod.
I believe it's the new era cam for the g8's possibly, otherwise, I believe you can get a custom ground and retain DOD if you wanted to go that route. Honestly, if your digging into your engine to swap cams you might as well ditch DOD.