supercatxr7

iTrader: (5)

Good MPH for sure! Would like to know a little more. My et and mph is in my signature below. I agree, 119 mph should get you into the 11's or so if you cut a decent 60 foot. Need to keep your rear end from squatting, otherwise it will keep holding you back on 60 foot when the front end lifts on take off.

nmp0098

Nice mph... that input shaft didn't have a chance with that kind of torque. You'll be out nearly a grand if you pay someone to take the trans out and replace the input shaft with a hardened unit, so you might as well spring the rest of the money to get it built correctly. Not to mention that there might be other damage.

I want to know more too... did you put our crank and accessories on a 6.0? Or are you spinning the engine over 7000 RPM? Sigh, did I mention I want to know more?

If you don't mind sharing, what have you done to keep the rear end from squatting in your car? I'm very interested in that particular modification.

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

Had to have upped the displacement.

Swap crank, accessories, and reweld the bellhousing or use an adapter plate to mount the trans.

Even with more cubes, 119 MPH is insane...

Haulin_Ls4_GxP

iTrader: (1)

Didn't you have the engine rebuilt because of a bad HG from the fans not working when you had your ecm tuned?

supercatxr7

iTrader: (5)

There is a way to "cable tie" down your rear end. If you do a search on various grand prix forums you will find the info and how to do it. I honestly don't like doing it that way and in someways don't fully trust it safety wise. Rear end basically has zero travel up or down. If the track is not completely smooth, it makes for a rather bumpy ride. But, it can knock a few tenths off ET allowing you to get out of the hole decently. GTO spring blockers are also an option, but I could never get them to stay in my lowering springs. Intense made a kit at one point some time ago that did not "cable tie" the rear end down and to me would be the right way to do it, but I don't see that they make the kit anymore or only offered it for a very short time period. I recall a post on here about it from awhile ago. I'm taking the route of adjustable rear coil overs and some decent springs this year.

Brian396

iTrader: (3)

How about air bags?

Sittingmongoose

iTrader: (1)

hahahhaah Haulin actually hit the nail on the head I had my engine fully built with forged internals then the heads were rebuilt on a flowbench and honed out. Then the cam was custom ground to my engine using a flow bench to determine the proper airflow that would match my heads perfectly. Also yes i rev up closer to 7000rpm where i am still pulling. However i am SEVERELY limited by my broken and small throttle body and my small cold air intake Which is getting upgraded when i get the trans done.
My 60ft was abysmal, something like 2.5. When i ran that number at the track i had bald tires. I didnt believe the trap speed when i got it but it makes sense because i pull hard on brand new gt500's and i beat a new cts v sedan so i guess it would be correct. I am going back to the track when i get my new tranny and new intake system. I am hoping to hit a high 11 or low 12. I will be using slicks

It is going to be a while now though because i dont have the like 8 grand to do all the work. 3500 for tranny, 3000 labor, 1500 for throttle body and cold air intake.

blakss

iTrader: (4)

just wondering how much were talking on the forged internals ? seems like alot of work ...

Haulin_Ls4_GxP

iTrader: (1)

Whats with your TB goose? As for a bigger one I'm not so sure you going to get one without speding like 20k to have one made. Atleast thats what I was told when I call Accu Fab. Also I think your cost for a trans is a bit high. I would guess 4k max for a rebuild and install. Just my 2 cents

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

your warning was a 119 trap speed (which I'm not entirely convinced of)

Also, your numbers are not adding up, a rebuilt trans doesn't cost 6500, more like 4K tops. Also, a CAI and TB don't cost anywhere near 1500 bucks.

nmp0098

Mostly bald tires (2 thousandths tread depth) give the best traction. New tires still have mold-release compound on the surface, and it takes a while for it to wear off. All of that tread stuff is just for rain and snow, so the less you have the better for dry traction. Road racers with $$$ will shave their tires to 2-3 thousandths or so.

I would think $500 to have a shop get the tranny in and out, $300 to ship it to Indiana and back, and $2500 for a street/strip rebuild with a hardened input shaft and 7/8ths chain.

Yes, but that's for reliability, not power (other than a boost from precision machine work and careful reassembly). Really, he just followed the N/A power recipe to a T. He has the best intake manifold he can get, ported heads with valve work, a custom camshaft, and headers. And, he paid a pro to do the work.

x2

Thanks for the information. I've seen the other thread, but I was curious what you were using and if you actually got ahold of the spring blocks. From a physics standpoint, you'd want the rear suspension at full jounce and those tie down methods put the suspension near full rebound.

They would work really well if you hot-wired them to fill up completely, but that's a lot of work and I really like the way the car handles right now. I know enough about suspensions to know that I don't know how to design them properly.



Overall, great numbers. This gives me hope that I can just get 12s without changing from my sub-optimized cam and doing head work.