Broke a valve spring. Not looking good@
From what I have gathered.. The springs should be replaced once a year depending on miles and track use. I have a very aggressive intake lobe 267@595 lift and have over 40 passes with a lot of hard driven miles. I will be replacing the springs with tea gold duals. I will check the pressure with a spring checker once I remove them to verrify my findings.
So.. I broke a rocker, lifter, smashed the push rod tip, bent the intake valve, shattered the valve guide, and cracked the guide boss. Piston has some pressed valve reliefs that are half as deep ad the piston forward dot. The motor spins freely so hopefully the piston skirt, pin, bearings, and Rod is ok. I will assume yes, based on the fact that the motor spins with ease and that the bore looks perfect. It still has cross hatch marks from honing.
I have a pair of heads coming so I will my machinist check it over and
Make it match the other head specs. Mill, and backcut.
Even with dual springs I will pull one every 6 months or so to check seat pressure. I love beehives... But don't like the fact that if one breaks the valve drops. With duals there is less if a chance.
Again.. My aggressive cam caused the spring to ware. Nature if the beast. If I was running more duration with less lift, the springs should last longer. I'll post up the spring numbers once I remove them
Just grab a
and
and get to work. (There was no bratwurst smiley so popcorn will have to do!) The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I love my car too much to see it hurting like this. Most of you can't wait to get out of the ls4 and I'm all about it. I do hate speeding money though
The intake valve hit the side of the cylinder wall, so I stripped the block down and took into my machinist. The cylinder wall cannot be saved, so I ordered another engine from LKQ that was low mileage. The engine came with a carfax report and was labled as condition A. The engine came from a 2006 GXP (Cool
) I received the engine yesterday morning and stripped the motor down for the cam swap. This engine is pretty clean and came with a AC Declo oil filter, so i will assume.. it was serviced by the dealship. The timing chain was streched pretty bad, so it's getting replaced. I am not going to risk running a factory chain (we have the LS2 chain btw) with dual springs and .600" lift. Too risky!Piston tops, combustion chambers, and intake ports are coated with carbon and oil (DOD sucks!) My engine was clean as hell.. with a little carbon on the piston tops and had brownish combustion chambers. Turn DOD off guys, and get a catch can people!
New part list:
GM LS6 oil pump
GM head gaskets, head bolts, oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets
Katech C5-R timing chain. http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286290
New GM LS2 lifter buckets. Replace after 50K
New GM LS7 lifters. Stockers are fine. Being cautious!
Lunati Dual valve .660" springs with upgraded retainers, and locks. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-springs.html
Comp cams rocker trunion upgrade. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...n-upgrade.html
AI stage II heads. http://advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiL...cGMLS2Head.php
Hoping to add more reliability and with an extra 25-30hp.
Can you confirm?
It does not only depend on casting # but the series too as they are all LS6 heads different ones /casting makes for more or less
they are all capable of the same lift with stock valves but what about wall clearance at certain lifts, hint
what about retainer clearance during higher lift, oops they all require 0.50 between it and the seal too
why is there a max lift with the smaller bore, can someone use smaller intake valves, a 799 casting with smaller valves without compromising to much performance, if it was ported the drop from 320cfm from 340cfm be noticeable on the street,oh and dont forget the tensioner for your chain
So.. I can't give you the rocket scince explainaton.. About it



