Battery saver active
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2012
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Battery saver active hey guys new to this form, let me do a short introduction my name is eduardo live in Ligonier IN, Have a blue 06 grand prix gxp completely stock.
The problem: Recently my car has been dying on me. I had taken it to auto zone to test the battery and the had said that it was the alternator so i had changed it and it worked fine for 2 days then it started dying on me again. After that i had noticed that that in the dic it said Battery charging failure something like that then it went to battery saver active. I had change the battery that same day and it worked for 2 days now its doing it again idk what it is i don't have a stereo system idk what is draining my battery HELP!!
The problem: Recently my car has been dying on me. I had taken it to auto zone to test the battery and the had said that it was the alternator so i had changed it and it worked fine for 2 days then it started dying on me again. After that i had noticed that that in the dic it said Battery charging failure something like that then it went to battery saver active. I had change the battery that same day and it worked for 2 days now its doing it again idk what it is i don't have a stereo system idk what is draining my battery HELP!!
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 18
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after one whole day of not turning it on i turned it on with out jumping cables, In the DIC it had 10.80-10.90 volts on the battery, and as soon as i turned it on the Battery server turned on as well
Well crap I'm wrong. You got problems. I'd either disconect the battery and charge it, then leave it disconnected and see if it holds a charge. Or take it back to Autozone and have them test there alternator and battery.
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2010
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I had a similar issue with mine replacing the battery and everything still have the battery saver mode come up on the dic. It ended up the the BCM was faulty dealership replaced it under warranty and haven't had any issues since. hope this is some what helpfull
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2012
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Hey guys thanx for the tips recently i had taken it to my local Pontiac and the could not find nothing wrong with it. My battery volts keeps getting worse they are now at 8-9 volts. Oh what is the BCM?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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ok so im gonna copy and post a post i made on grandprixforums.net
1st things first....so i have in my position finally the new fuse box cover and the battery current sensor.
Starting with the battery current sensor, i talked with the master tech at GM when i picked it all up today and they explained to me that the stock sensor on my car (GM part #10306471) was a known issue with the cars that it was installed in from 2005 to very first off the line 2007s. Then it was superseded by GM part #13505369 at that point which is supposed to fix the issues. continuing my talk with him the purpose of said sensor is to help regulate the power in the car from the alternator and also provides the voltage the the Drivers information center shows. (Didn't ask how it works didnt really care lol). Also when i told him that sometimes when i have the alternator tested when the cars electrical is acting weird the regulator in the alternator shows being bad and other times it didn't, well guess what....this stupid piece of crap sensor can make it appear so to the simple testers that it is a bad alternator...go freaking figure. well hopefully this fixes my problems when i stick it in tomorrow!!
and just to through it out there....it did fix my battery saver mode active.
before replacing that i rebuilt alternator....twice
replaced battery with optima red top 1000 CCAs
tried new wiring
and then replaced that sensor. no more problems...my voltage stays more steady and all around better
1st things first....so i have in my position finally the new fuse box cover and the battery current sensor.
Starting with the battery current sensor, i talked with the master tech at GM when i picked it all up today and they explained to me that the stock sensor on my car (GM part #10306471) was a known issue with the cars that it was installed in from 2005 to very first off the line 2007s. Then it was superseded by GM part #13505369 at that point which is supposed to fix the issues. continuing my talk with him the purpose of said sensor is to help regulate the power in the car from the alternator and also provides the voltage the the Drivers information center shows. (Didn't ask how it works didnt really care lol). Also when i told him that sometimes when i have the alternator tested when the cars electrical is acting weird the regulator in the alternator shows being bad and other times it didn't, well guess what....this stupid piece of crap sensor can make it appear so to the simple testers that it is a bad alternator...go freaking figure. well hopefully this fixes my problems when i stick it in tomorrow!!
and just to through it out there....it did fix my battery saver mode active.
before replacing that i rebuilt alternator....twice
replaced battery with optima red top 1000 CCAs
tried new wiring
and then replaced that sensor. no more problems...my voltage stays more steady and all around better
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 622
Likes: 1
It is possible to get a bad one... I just went thru 3 MAP sensors to get one that was reading as per the book.
You did get the sensor on there with the tail in the right direction (away from the terminal) and all wires to the terminal are inside the sensor ring. Battery terminals are tight. Check the connector at the alternator there is a bulletin on that connector/wires into that connector being loose/broken.
The battery voltage is good or does it need to be trickle charged for 24 hrs to rebuild the resistance. Also those Red Tops require a special procedure to fully charge. You must use a regular car battery connected to the RedTop and then put the charger on the regular battery, leaving that assembly connected for the 24hrs.
Here is a basic write-up on our EPM (electrical power management)
http://www.gmls4.com/index.php?topic=2442.0
and remember a low voltage situation even once will cause a "low voltage" code to be stored in every module on the car... so if you know someone with a tech2 or a macnav or a solstice get them to read all modules and then clear all. This alone could be your problem.
You did get the sensor on there with the tail in the right direction (away from the terminal) and all wires to the terminal are inside the sensor ring. Battery terminals are tight. Check the connector at the alternator there is a bulletin on that connector/wires into that connector being loose/broken.
The battery voltage is good or does it need to be trickle charged for 24 hrs to rebuild the resistance. Also those Red Tops require a special procedure to fully charge. You must use a regular car battery connected to the RedTop and then put the charger on the regular battery, leaving that assembly connected for the 24hrs.
Here is a basic write-up on our EPM (electrical power management)
http://www.gmls4.com/index.php?topic=2442.0
and remember a low voltage situation even once will cause a "low voltage" code to be stored in every module on the car... so if you know someone with a tech2 or a macnav or a solstice get them to read all modules and then clear all. This alone could be your problem.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
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i did get it facing the right direction, the part that sticks out is facing away from the battery. battery voltage is good as well been around 13.3-13.6 range since i changed the sensor.
i might swap the old sensor back on just to see if this goes away.
i do have a friend with a tech2 that i've been meaning to go see to clear the check vehicle message. just havent done it yet.
i might swap the old sensor back on just to see if this goes away.
i do have a friend with a tech2 that i've been meaning to go see to clear the check vehicle message. just havent done it yet.
Ill_Born_ss is right. The code will still be stored until it is cleared properly. And yes, the code will continue to show up if the two voltages differ by more than 2 volts for more than 10 seconds.
The code that was set in my vehicle was B1390 (service vehicle soon). I am still waiting on my replacement sensor (5V variant).
The code that was set in my vehicle was B1390 (service vehicle soon). I am still waiting on my replacement sensor (5V variant).
I believe the problem lies when it starts up. It'll definitely sit in the 11.8, 11.9, 12 range for more than 10 seconds (hence the B1390 code). I am sure this voltage doesn't match the more precise internal meter which is probably getting the correct voltage reading from the battery.
This also accounted for my rear LED taillights hyperflashing as their resistors (15 ohms) provided too low of a current value for the vehicle. The vehicle would then think that the bulb was out. Swapping over to 7 ohm resistors in the rear solved this issue. ~0.78 A versus ~1.68 A at startup. It also makes sense that I never had front LED bulb issues since those resistors are of the small, gold 6 ohm variant.