blkchevyz

what springs are on it? its got a perfect stance.

jasongantt

i bought one when they first came out....it was a beast but every once in a while, the car would just shut off while driving. dealer couldn't figure it out, so i sold it before it hit 5000 miles.

crazyjoe

Canuck Motorsport/SSC springs, 1.7" on all 4 corners.

And for what it's worth I was able to do the LS1 swap on the cheap. Intake was given to me, my buddy had an extra tray that we were able to mod and not lose any down time, the only cash I had in the swap was the throttle-body adapter.

Aaron Arceneaux

Thanks guys for the warm welcome...I've been looking at the Thrasher shift kit and Hayden OC-1404 cooler. I live in Port Arthur,Texas which is about 2.5 hr drive from Stafford! I just got the windows re-tinted 25% in front and limo in rear makes me look gangster lol Also I'll be going by Flaco to get it tuned for the LS1 intake...should I port the TB or leave it alone?

Jay z28

iTrader: (5)

lol small world.

On another note. I wish someone would have spent the money to mod the one I hadbefore I bought it! Haha

Aaron Arceneaux

Got pulled over today lol The officer was nice and realized that I got a little too happy with my new car. He let me off with a warning

Took him 2min later too catch up after I park smh!!

neilownz

Maybe just because you have a temp tag.

TAZDEVILGXP

new to this site, just purchased a 05 gxp and in the past month (after the 3rd day ) its been cutting out on me. says accelorator pedal assembly sensor, p2138, 2128, 2122 I have had it at the dealers now 6 times they have replaced the pedal assembly sensor, drove it out of the driveway (after they said it was fixed) and it cut out reduction power again. they now have this car (which is my baby ) color dark cherry with all the extras. they cannot find the problem with this electrical situation. now going on day 6 of being there, thanks god the dealership is taking care of me on this. But now says if they cant get it right then I need to trade it back in. I dont want to trade it back in does any one have any ideas whats causing this to continue to do this. when this has occured I pulled the circuit connector on the strutt mount (throttle connector) aired it out plugged it back and in and bam runs god for a day or 2 then cuts right back out. please help me with this matter. I dont want to give the car back. I LOVE THIS GXP thanks

neilownz

Start a new thread.

TAZDEVILGXP

im good they finally fixed the thing as i was getting ready to turn it back in to them as a lemon

Aaron Arceneaux

Got the cooler and Intense shift kit installed. Had to cut one of the longer brass bushings to create the two smaller bushings that Intense forgot some how smdh. I can say that the shift quality is a major difference and little to almost no time between shifts (nice and firm).I guess because it's 90 degrees out here and humid that's why my temp is still around the 190 area.

Aaron Arceneaux

Also the cooler is bypassed from the factory radiator.

baltsk8er69

iTrader: (1)

That's incorrect. The cooler needs to be in conjunction with the factory cooler. You will not cool the fluid enough bypassing the stock cooler.

The_Madcat

Bypassing the stock radiator cooler is the only way to go in my opinion. Why reheat the fluid by putting it in the radiator cooler?

I was on the fence about this prior to getting one myself. Logically, bypassing makes the only sense. The radiator has engine coolant in it that is ~200 degrees, heating up the rest of the radiator, including the trans cooler section. By using the radiator, you are heating the fluid up to engine coolant temps and then cooling it using the additional cooler. If you bypass, you are just cooling the fluid. Also, if you have had trans issues you could have bits and pieces of broken trans components contaminating the radiator section. You can flush it but it's not going to clean that cooler 100%.

Since swapping over to a standalone cooler, my trans has yet to approach the hot temps it used to get. I don't think I could recommend using the radiator cooler if you are going to the trouble of installing an additional cooler, you might as well do it proper.

My stand alone cooler is a 20,000 btu cooler. I live in the south end of Wisconsin so if you have higher average temps, a slightly larger cooler might be needed. After I had it installed, I drove around the outskirts of Chicago, got caught in bumper to bumper for ~2 hours. It was ~85 degrees out and no airflow, trans sat content at 170-180 degrees. Just the day before the install I drove the same road, did not get caught in traffic and same temps/airflow - 205 degrees using the stock cooler. If I had to sit in traffic I am sure it would have hit 220.

Aaron Arceneaux

I have a 22000GVW cooler. Does it matter how it is mounted on the radiator? I have mine vertically mounted instead of horizontal because I couldn't to fit behind the core support(I think that's what it is)

The_Madcat

Depends on the cooler itself. Most of the ones I have seen need to be mounted in a particular way. The one I have is mounted horizontally in front of the radiator, I believe the input/output connections are at the topside. I would have to look again to be positive (Dave @ TEP installed mine). I check the connections for leaks at oil change intervals so I'll have it uncovered enough to verify that for you. It will be 2 weeks before I do the change though.

4GWS6

sounds like my 05 Comp G GTP,but i got it from a young douche bag LoL!