FAST102 LSXr and Nick Williams 102mm Throttle Body Install
11-03-2012, 09:43 PM
#22
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Well ain't this about a bitch. I remember talking with fast about this two years ago. That's a nice manifold you've got there sir.....it's been a long time coming. I miss my go fast parts on the GXP. Good work Nate.
12-06-2012, 04:08 PM
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There is a pretty good difference in the LSXR and LSXRT. I took a couple of quick snap shots for you guys. Hope this helps you guys. If you need any other shots lets me know.
12-06-2012, 04:54 PM
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Here's an update of sorts: my valve springs are toast. I was not making as much high rpm power as I thought I should, and I went to wind it up to 7000 and see how much the power fell. Keep in mind that I hit 7000 all the time before I monkeyed around with the cam. It never got to 7000... it just hit the valve float wall. I lifted after it was clear that my speed was too high and it should have shifted already, but after that I saw valve float at 5800 or so. I have some PAC 1519s to replace the 1218s, and I'll be throwing in 3/8ths pushrods when I change the springs. 1219 is a bit stiffer than the 1218, has 20#s more seat pressure, and can handle cams with .625 lift or greater if you push it with light weight components. The 1519 is nitrided for longer life than the 1219, and I got about 50k from the 1218s.
I think this combo can pull still harder than it is right now, and I'm not sure if the power peak I was seeing before might have already been down due to the valve springs getting tired. The real key to my combo is winding 1st out far enough that I can shift into 2nd and land at about 4800, which is where torque starts to flatten off.
I'll post a thread about the pinouts once I find my notebook. I keep meaning to.
12-06-2012, 08:34 PM
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Oh, it can. I still pull some vacuum at WOT. The only reason not to run an enormous throttle is that you get less control over part throttle. With a larger the throttle, the same change in angle leads to more change in the air flow. Thankfully, this isn't a cable driven throttle and so a little work on the pedal to throttle tables and it drives fine.
Here's an update of sorts: my valve springs are toast. I was not making as much high rpm power as I thought I should, and I went to wind it up to 7000 and see how much the power fell. Keep in mind that I hit 7000 all the time before I monkeyed around with the cam. It never got to 7000... it just hit the valve float wall. I lifted after it was clear that my speed was too high and it should have shifted already, but after that I saw valve float at 5800 or so. I have some PAC 1519s to replace the 1218s, and I'll be throwing in 3/8ths pushrods when I change the springs. 1219 is a bit stiffer than the 1218, has 20#s more seat pressure, and can handle cams with .625 lift or greater if you push it with light weight components. The 1519 is nitrided for longer life than the 1219, and I got about 50k from the 1218s.
I think this combo can pull still harder than it is right now, and I'm not sure if the power peak I was seeing before might have already been down due to the valve springs getting tired. The real key to my combo is winding 1st out far enough that I can shift into 2nd and land at about 4800, which is where torque starts to flatten off.
I'll post a thread about the pinouts once I find my notebook. I keep meaning to.
Here's an update of sorts: my valve springs are toast. I was not making as much high rpm power as I thought I should, and I went to wind it up to 7000 and see how much the power fell. Keep in mind that I hit 7000 all the time before I monkeyed around with the cam. It never got to 7000... it just hit the valve float wall. I lifted after it was clear that my speed was too high and it should have shifted already, but after that I saw valve float at 5800 or so. I have some PAC 1519s to replace the 1218s, and I'll be throwing in 3/8ths pushrods when I change the springs. 1219 is a bit stiffer than the 1218, has 20#s more seat pressure, and can handle cams with .625 lift or greater if you push it with light weight components. The 1519 is nitrided for longer life than the 1219, and I got about 50k from the 1218s.
I think this combo can pull still harder than it is right now, and I'm not sure if the power peak I was seeing before might have already been down due to the valve springs getting tired. The real key to my combo is winding 1st out far enough that I can shift into 2nd and land at about 4800, which is where torque starts to flatten off.
I'll post a thread about the pinouts once I find my notebook. I keep meaning to.
7000 RPM is pretty high with stock rod bolts. I would be careful. The first gear pull isn't going to hurt anything, so you might be aliright. I doubt you will see 7000 in 2nd to often. I hit 6800 and worry
Check your spring seat pressures. I would check the pressure often... I broke a spring and dropped a valve.
12-06-2012, 10:14 PM
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Thanks for the update.
7000 RPM is pretty high with stock rod bolts. I would be careful. The first gear pull isn't going to hurt anything, so you might be aliright. I doubt you will see 7000 in 2nd to often. I hit 6800 and worry
Check your spring seat pressures. I would check the pressure often... I broke a spring and dropped a valve.
7000 RPM is pretty high with stock rod bolts. I would be careful. The first gear pull isn't going to hurt anything, so you might be aliright. I doubt you will see 7000 in 2nd to often. I hit 6800 and worry
Check your spring seat pressures. I would check the pressure often... I broke a spring and dropped a valve.
lol
12-07-2012, 08:50 AM
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12-07-2012, 11:46 AM
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Thanks for the update.
7000 RPM is pretty high with stock rod bolts. I would be careful. The first gear pull isn't going to hurt anything, so you might be aliright. I doubt you will see 7000 in 2nd to often. I hit 6800 and worry
Check your spring seat pressures. I would check the pressure often... I broke a spring and dropped a valve.
7000 RPM is pretty high with stock rod bolts. I would be careful. The first gear pull isn't going to hurt anything, so you might be aliright. I doubt you will see 7000 in 2nd to often. I hit 6800 and worry
Check your spring seat pressures. I would check the pressure often... I broke a spring and dropped a valve.
I don't have any dyno numbers, and there's plenty of dyno to dyno variation. I was seeing about 44 lbs mass/minute of air at 6800 RPM. Theoretically, 44lb/min is good for about 450 HP. Of course, exhaust valve opening, spark advance, and A/F ratio have a lot to say about whether or not you reach the theoretical power for the air coming in. I won't know much more than that until the spring.
12-08-2012, 07:18 PM
#33
Oh, it can. I still pull some vacuum at WOT. The only reason not to run an enormous throttle is that you get less control over part throttle. With a larger the throttle, the same change in angle leads to more change in the air flow. Thankfully, this isn't a cable driven throttle and so a little work on the pedal to throttle tables and it drives fine.
I'll post a thread about the pinouts once I find my notebook. I keep meaning to.
I'll post a thread about the pinouts once I find my notebook. I keep meaning to.
02-27-2013, 05:54 PM
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06-24-2013, 02:44 PM
#37
I would assume if the NW102 is compatible with LS2 GTO applications and you have a ~2006ish LS4 you could follow the new sticky for that...amiright?
I think i'm SOL for now as i have an 08 with a different wiring scheme and TB.
I think i'm SOL for now as i have an 08 with a different wiring scheme and TB.
Last edited by fubar569; 06-24-2013 at 02:53 PM.
02-06-2018, 02:07 PM
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help! So, I was pulling nearly a pound of vacuum at WOT and I had already ported my stock throttle body to the point of worthlessness. In fact, it started setting codes at idle and controllability was completely shot... lesson learned on how much and where to port a throttle body for a good idle. Anyway, I looked at LS2/3 throttle bodies and larger intake necks, but I started adding things up and it was getting close a FAST102. I then scored a Nick Williams 102mm throttle body for cheap, and the race was on. Several feet of tubing, a new coupler, a power steering pump, some catch cans, and a pack of JB weld later I had the intake mounted up.
The power steering pump is the biggest obstacle to the swap, so I had to notch the FAST 102 and move the power steering pump inlet to make clearance. I didn't actually take much area from the plenum and didn't have to touch the runner for cylinder 7 (2 in our cars) except for a little clearancing on the outside. I'm not sure how the guts of the aluminum-cased power steering pump will handle the excess heat from welding, so I started with JB Weld. The JB Weld is holding fine, but I plan to modify the original pump now that I made the replacement fit and do a better job of fixturing the inlet.
One thing that really surprised me was how much port matching I had to do to get the manifolds outlets to line up with the runners on the heads. I don't know how much is due to the reverse mounting, but that isn't supposed to make a difference (the heads themselves are switchable).
The car is nice and snappy with the new parts, and runs the new throttle body and everything else with no codes. The MAF tune for the 2008 Z06 formed a reasonable starting point for tuning and has the correct IAT tables.
Here's the job nearly done:
Attachment 677616
The stock and NW102 throttle bodies:
Attachment 677617
I got tricky and left the harness compatable with both throttle bodies:
Attachment 677618
When I went to the LS3 valley cover during my head swap and DOD delete, I accidently cut the OPSU bung at 30* instead of 15*, so I had a 60* angle which conveniently left room for the throttle neck.
Attachment 677619
Even so, I had to grind a good bit of the material in the throttle neck for clearance, so I backed it with a steel plate held on with JB Weld:
Attachment 677620
This is a test fit of the trouble area:
Attachment 677621
I even had to clearance the water pump manifold a little bit:
Attachment 677622
I was careful and found that the cylinder 7/2 runner didn't have to be modified other than removing the part that would screw into the support I removed. I'm attaching on my steel patch in this shot:
Attachment 677623
The power steering resevoir is just sitting there, and it's higher than it was, but everything did fit (including the PCV tube from the LS3 valley cover that I've been using since the head swap):
Attachment 677624
I used 4" aluminum piping (96mm ID) for inlet tract. I used an LS7 style slot MAF and a saxonpc.com airflow straightener in the pipe:
Attachment 677625
At the RPM's I spin the engine (plus the extra power) I get a lot of oil blow-by, so a pair of ebay cheapie catch cans got thrown into service:
Attachment 677626
And here is it mostly wrapped up. I'll shoot a final photo sometime soon:
Attachment 677627
The power steering pump is the biggest obstacle to the swap, so I had to notch the FAST 102 and move the power steering pump inlet to make clearance. I didn't actually take much area from the plenum and didn't have to touch the runner for cylinder 7 (2 in our cars) except for a little clearancing on the outside. I'm not sure how the guts of the aluminum-cased power steering pump will handle the excess heat from welding, so I started with JB Weld. The JB Weld is holding fine, but I plan to modify the original pump now that I made the replacement fit and do a better job of fixturing the inlet.
One thing that really surprised me was how much port matching I had to do to get the manifolds outlets to line up with the runners on the heads. I don't know how much is due to the reverse mounting, but that isn't supposed to make a difference (the heads themselves are switchable).
The car is nice and snappy with the new parts, and runs the new throttle body and everything else with no codes. The MAF tune for the 2008 Z06 formed a reasonable starting point for tuning and has the correct IAT tables.
Here's the job nearly done:
Attachment 677616
The stock and NW102 throttle bodies:
Attachment 677617
I got tricky and left the harness compatable with both throttle bodies:
Attachment 677618
When I went to the LS3 valley cover during my head swap and DOD delete, I accidently cut the OPSU bung at 30* instead of 15*, so I had a 60* angle which conveniently left room for the throttle neck.
Attachment 677619
Even so, I had to grind a good bit of the material in the throttle neck for clearance, so I backed it with a steel plate held on with JB Weld:
Attachment 677620
This is a test fit of the trouble area:
Attachment 677621
I even had to clearance the water pump manifold a little bit:
Attachment 677622
I was careful and found that the cylinder 7/2 runner didn't have to be modified other than removing the part that would screw into the support I removed. I'm attaching on my steel patch in this shot:
Attachment 677623
The power steering resevoir is just sitting there, and it's higher than it was, but everything did fit (including the PCV tube from the LS3 valley cover that I've been using since the head swap):
Attachment 677624
I used 4" aluminum piping (96mm ID) for inlet tract. I used an LS7 style slot MAF and a saxonpc.com airflow straightener in the pipe:
Attachment 677625
At the RPM's I spin the engine (plus the extra power) I get a lot of oil blow-by, so a pair of ebay cheapie catch cans got thrown into service:
Attachment 677626
And here is it mostly wrapped up. I'll shoot a final photo sometime soon:
Attachment 677627