streetbanned

Ever since I put an intake on my car I get these damn messages frequent ly while driving which is annoying bc it cuta power for a aplit second as if I hit my brakes. Think it can be bc my filter is right above my tray? Theres no heat shield around my filter bc its not a k&n its an off brand

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

If it's a K&N-type filter with oil, you probably got oil on your MAF. Just get some MAF cleaner and spray the inside of it out and you should be good to go.

streetbanned

Arite ill try that thanks, wats ur name since we seem to see eachother a lot on here hahaha. Im Rick

baltsk8er69

iTrader: (1)

Pads were thin. Dropped brake fluid level. New pads problem solved.

streetbanned

Oh nice! Glad u got it figured out. Mine still doin it even after cleaning my maf

baltsk8er69

iTrader: (1)

Is your brake fluid full?

crich88848

I'm having a similar issue on my car. The service traction control, service brake assist, service brake system lights keep coming on. It only happens when I drive the car for the first time in the mornings. The rest of the day it never comes on. I am wondering if maybe I have a loose or broken connection some where and the dampness in the morning is causing the codes.

Barnett92

iTrader: (1)

It probably your wheel bearings on the front. Just jack it up, and put your hands on the wheel on the 12 o clock and the 6 o clock position. If there is play (wiggle) on the wheel then you need to get yourself a new wheel bearing. Also when you install it make sure you zip tie the plug or you will need a new one(bad experience)

crich88848

I'll have to do this. I was really hoping it was just a bad connection somwhere. But this prolly makes more sense. Thanks.

streetbanned

Its not my bearings I know that for a fact, it started doing this right after I put my intake on last year

crich88848

Yea, I have some noises coming from my front driver side tire when I turn the wheel to the left as well.

crich88848

So, it turns out I had bad wheel bearings on both front wheels and a bad outter tie rod on the front driver side tire. Forked out the 500 bucks to have all this fixed and guess what......... THE DAMN CHECK BRAKE ASSIT, CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM AND CHECK TRACTION CONTROL MESSAGES ARE STILL POPPING UP ON THE DIC. I have no damn clue what to do with it now.

streetbanned

Yea idk what else to do with mine either...seems impossible to fix. So annoying

severancej

Ive heard its two wires to each front wheel, their like intermediate harnesses. the one or other or both break or corrode. This is on the gxp's correct?

baltsk8er69

iTrader: (1)

Wow.....******* wow. I did all four wheel bearings both inner and outer tie rods and end links for 275 bucks and an afternoon. Labor is highway robbery. If you took it in and wanted it repaired to eliminate that light and they did not, you need to take it back. Once again is your brake fluid full?

crich88848

My brake fluid is completely full. I could not do the wheel bearings myself as I do not have the necessary equipment to get the castle nut off. I also don't have an alignment machine to realign my tires after replacing the tie rod. The tie rod cost so much because they used a higher end greaseable tie rod. I don't know how you could get 4 wheel bearings and 8 tie rods for that cheap unless using really low end or used parts. The cheapest wheel bearings I found were 50 bucks a piece. That would put you at 200 for 4 wheel bearings alone. And 8 lower end tie rods should run around 100 to a 150 bucks. So right there alone you're looking at 300 - 350 to do it yourself using the cheapest parts you can find. I prefer to not put the cheapest stuff on my car. I've learned in the past that you get what you pay for. So all in all I probably only paid around 150 to 200 bucks for labor and alignment. Not to bad if you ask me.

baltsk8er69

iTrader: (1)

The fronts are 50 and the rears are 30 the "high end greaseable" tie rods are moogs and theyre 8 dollars each at advanced auto. The inners were 16 each. The
Necessary equipment for the castle nut it a half inch ratchet and some buts to put behind it. I bought no cheap parts. I guess I'm a believer letting someone work on your car is like letting them **** your wife.

baltsk8er69

iTrader: (1)

By the way. If your alignment is already good and your using oe parts you can just back the stop nut off the outer and measure. Then install the new on at the same length. And it will have the same alignment.

crich88848

Well that's a bit extreme. Do you mean a half-inch drive ratchet? Cause the castle nut is somewhere around 1 1/2". And my alignment was already messed up before this so it needed to be done regardless.

crich88848

And Moog tie rods are $57.00 for the outter and $40.00 for the inner at advanced auto.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...chTerm=tie+rod