My car's been dealing with charging system failure messages since Thanksgiving and it's just got to the point where it's not starting the last few days. I pop the hood, move the battery cables and lights go on and the car starts, drive to where I'm going, and have to do this process over again to re-start the car.

I tried to figure out what was causing this so I took off the negative ground where it's bolted to the body cleaned the corrosion off the cable and wiped the oil from the rustproofing off that area so it gets a clean connection and that didn't effect anything. I got fed up and took it back to the dealership since I have a warranty and if it was something with wiring further down the line I don't have the time to try to diagnose it and fix it with work tomorrow.

I replicated the problem there, they gave me a loaner and I left. Then I got a call a little while ago saying the negative post was loose in the battery and and the terminal on the wiring looked like it was aftermarket and not properly installed as well and the two things look to be causing the issue. OK....well then they tell me they want $330 to replace the battery and fix the terminal with the terminal only being a $6 part the bulk of it is the battery cost and labor. She told me they could only get one quote on a battery tonight but even she was surprised it was that expensive so she's going to call around tomorrow for different options.

I can install a battery in 5 minutes in my Firebird but I did see that the process takes about 45 mins on our cars so I can see there labor costing a little but it still look like it's over $200 for the battery!

I see the CCA from the factory was 680amps and any of the replacements on most the local parts store websites are less than this but do cost less. The only battery with a CCA rating close to stock that I'm finding is the Optima Red Tops and they are $200. Are they worth it? Also wondering what CCA rating you guys have gone to when buying a replacement battery? I'm not running any aftermarket stuff except LEDs but may install my subs at some point.

 

http://www.gpona.com/forums/gxp-area...cs-t26509.html

 

Yellow top and be done!!! red tops suck

 

I've ready a lot of complaints on the red tops which is why I asked. Which model yellow top fits?

 

I got a red top been doing me right for a long time. However I got the one with the highest CCA and ca, something like 900/1000

 

If remote mount the battery to the truck you can run whatever battery you want, preferably with more cranking amps like 91parkave did.

I just replaced mine yesterday & used Duralast Gold from Advance auto - 3 year free replacement & 5 year pro rated - $109. Cranks much better than the Delco I took out.

No matter what battery, be sure to brush terminals and cable ends and use plenty of dielectric grease.

 

Just to add. I had that red top up front first with no mods to make it fit. I'll dig up some pics and part number later.

 

i second duralast gold , mines been great , notbig on overpaying for a batt because it looks cool, use to have red tops before they went to crap, my last one sucked and i didnt see a yellow top being that much better, ill pay extra if it works n is better but not just to throwmoney away

 

Optima's of any sort are crap now. They quality started heading for the toilet back in 2004. Look at Deka batteries. The intimidator is their version of the yellow top. They make many of the Napa house brand batteries. If you call them, they can tell what the Napa part #'s are.

There are many other high end $$$ batteries as well, but I prefer to stick with a quality reasonably priced battery.

 

X2 on Optima, I've had good luck with Interstate.

 

Here's a pic same battery I've had simceni had the Gxp red top...that's now mounted in the trunk.

 

Definitely check out XS power d3400 I'm pretty sure that's the right one for gxp's. Their also a #1 choice in car audio.
An agm battery like that is what you want to put in your trunk unless you have some way to vent a conventional battery, and they also don't corrode like a conventional battery.

And isn't dielectric grease an insulator not a conductor? I wouldn't use it on my connections if that's the case..

 

Dielectric is conductive and prevents oxidation/ corosion. I use it on all my connectors...

 

Ok dielectric grease is a insulator, it's meant to lubricate the seal and help seal up the waterproof connections. Is there some sort of product your talking about specifically that conducts and prevents corrosion?

 

Can you do a write up of what it takes to do that and pics? Thank You

 

Yes it is, but it's still what you want to use.

 

I've had a red top for 3 years now. The easiest for install and removal is to remove the cross brace. 4 bolts vs. funky angles and bloody knuckles.

 

I had my yellow top for 4 years no issues on my Impala

 

Johnson Controls makes the Optima in Mexico now. That's the only issue with them. If you have a time machine and can get a old one then go for it.