Alright. Jacking car up now to check wires and such. I'll take pics and post afterwards. Hopefully it's just a short somewhere.

If I need the o2 sensors, do I have to get those specific acdelco parts?
I found this one http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...rchTerm=21573#

I found these part numbers on the gm website.

At manifold : 12580466
Post converter : 19209807

Any way to cross reference these with parts that work?

 

Yes these are the NGK/NTK numbers
Downstream /post cat 21573
Upstream / pre cat 21559

 

upper o2

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...465%7CL3*16466

after cat

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...465%7CL3*16466

Some prefer Denso, which is OEM manufacturer but a few $ more:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...465%7CL3*16466

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...465%7CL3*16466

 

Jacked up the car. Nothing really wrong with wiring on both o2 sensors. All wiring was in tact, Here's a pic of the o2 sensor under the hood. Pic is from past the engine in the back.

Car is idling low, (usually idled around 800-900) at 500-600 rpm. I replaced the fuse again. I have to drive tomorrow :crossing fingers: , I'll post again with details. Not sure what I should check now. What's the worst possible situation that happens? Flood the engine?

I'll check the solenoid and take the o2 sensors out and test them with torch and multimeter this weekend if the fuse blows again tomorrow. What should I be looking for with the solenoid?

I apologize for asking so many questions. Both of you guys have been a real help. :thumbs up:

 

If you have the car up still, leave the rear O2 unplugged. If fuse blows again, it's the front O2 that's shorted. It should run ok with just the front sensor, although light will be on the whole time... with 140k miles, I'd replace both of them yesterday!

 

If I leave the rear o2 unplugged and the front one is shorted then how would the car run without o2 sensors completely?

Car drove like crap. Fuse blown again. And Ill_Born_SS, that walkthrough on the solenoid is for a completely different car. My real wheel well doesn't look as if it is as easy as it shows in that walkthrough.

I'm going to get both of the o2 sensors now and install both. I need an o2 sensor socket from harbor freight right? Or can I borrow one from advance. I really hope that it's not a wire touching somewhere. Do you think that my front o2 sensor just stopped working? Like hey it's definitely time for a new one. Would that cause the fuse to blow and the light to come on for all? Or do you think that it could be my evap solenoid being broken or a wire short?

 

You have to understand that the O2 sensors live in an extremely hostile environment and do 2 things. 1 they sense the hot exhaust gases and report back to all the systems and they make all kinds of adjustments to keep your car running near perfect. This brings us to the second part, when you turn the key on the HEATED side if the O2 sensors jump into action raising the temperature of those little suckers to at least 600* as quick as they can so that the senescing portion can accurately do its job. Now most manufactures recommend that these be checked every 30000 miles and replaced between 80-100 thou. so you are 40000 over that...Lucky I guess!

Remember do not touch the end with your fingers or anything. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them. If you have no way to clear the codes stored in the computer after you do the repair, carefully remove the negative battery cable terminal for 2 minutes then reinstall it securely.

 

Ok. So I'm ordering a denso for the downstream and a wells vehicle for the front. And replacing both of these with a new fuse then disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes should take care of these codes? If not then I'll get it checked out. That sounds like a good idea to me lol. Wish me luck. I'll take pics if I can. It's raining out right now.

Thanks a ton Ill_Born_SS You have been a major help.

 

I wish it wasn't such a pain in the *** to find the front o2 sensor. No place near me has it... I hate being stressed out over a car. *pulling my hair out*

 

Alright guys I've ordered the parts through AutoZone. Upstream : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...9_0_1784_97999 Part # 234-4236
Downstream : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...5_0_1784_98000 Part # 234-4647
They will be in Tuesday before 3pm. I'll be getting off work early to take care of this then. I will take pics and post a little about my experiences. Thank you guys for helping, sorry if I have been a pain. Much respect

 

This is a pic of the downstream sensor's location. I cant get it out. I would have to take off the muffler. What size offset wrench would I need to get it out without taking down the muffler? I cant get an angle to turn it even one bit. I got the upstream sensor in though. Took off the negative and replaced the fuse. Just going to wait for a good 10 min to start the car.

 

simply cut the wires off the old one and use a socket on it. Then thread the new one in as far as you can and wench the last little bit to tight.

 

Or u can get in there with a small pair of channel locks or just do what ill born said

 

U don't need to cut anything spray WD 40 on it drive around the block use a 7/8 wrench and it all come off. No need for cutting wires or anything crazy



Edit: if u need more room. Take the two rubber hangars off the exhaust to drop it down a little. Remember disconnect the 02 before you start unscrewing

 

Please scroll up to post #31 andlook at the picture.

This stuff is almost funny.

 

funny like you saying an alternator could smack the hood under acceleration?

having some heat and wd-40 on the O2 helps alot to break corrosion and other crap.

 

Alright guys. I found a socket that will work in tight quarters. Not sure what's going on now. I replaced the upstream, changed out the fuse, disconnected the battery. Drove to autozone with no check engine light, returned the socket, as I'm pulling out of autozone the light comes back on. Blew the fuse again. What is going on? Please help!!! Because changing out the downstream doesn't seem like it's going to fix my problem...

 

It was suggested to you by more than one poster to change both together, replace the fuse and clear the codes. You did not and you still have the problem, most times cutting corners is the longest route.

 

Then why would my fuse blow over and over again? I'm trying to pinpoint the problem here. I changed out the upstream. Let's say ( for instance ) that the rear o2 is just fine. I change it out and bam codes again. Then what? There is an electrical problem somewhere... I'll replace the downstream today but if that doesn't work, what else should I do?

 

Brian, there is only 3 things on that circuit. 2 of which are a high draw item and well past their suggested life so they are the first thing to be replaced as not only are they the most probable cause of your problem they are also worn out and robbing you of performance. You were asked to disconnect the electrical connector at the 3rd item on the circuit much earlier in the post and you did not respond to it either. Is all we are trying to do is help you but you must also help for it to get resolved. If it by chance still blows the fuse after the obvious is eliminated then, YES we will try to help and find that culprit also.