Thermostat
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2008
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Stick with the stock thermo 187* if you are producing to much heat increase the rad capacity.
Your cars computers are set up from timing the actual time to temp (cold start, if it takes to long... limp mode) to, when to actually allow things to operate like the TCC lockup(won`t function until the temp is met, shift patterns and a lot more, closed loop you get the idea!
Your cars computers are set up from timing the actual time to temp (cold start, if it takes to long... limp mode) to, when to actually allow things to operate like the TCC lockup(won`t function until the temp is met, shift patterns and a lot more, closed loop you get the idea!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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Well my current problem is ever since I removed stock heater core lines and went to custom ran lines it's been running hot. Average temp after 45+ minute drive is 210. Before it used to never go over 200. I've replaced thermostat twice under warranty. Fans I have set to kit on high at 197....same cooling settings as 91Parkave.
Switched to green prestone coolant after I flushed system several times in December.
Switched to green prestone coolant after I flushed system several times in December.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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Your thermostat is not going to get rid of external temps... it is the internal of the engine the thermostat controls. If you are running hot on extended runs there is obviously a reason the rad is not dissipating the heat fast enough. Is there sufficient flow (air) thru it, is your tranny cooler to close or is it dirty. There have been numerous rads fail due to restricted coolant flow, even inner hoses rupturing and the coolant filling in between the inner and outer to create a hidden restriction. Also a failing water pump can lower the flow thus creating higher temps. It is also normal to see 220* on an extended trip (summertime)
There is also another possibility, setting your fan temps to anything over 80% causes the charging to go into full charge (the specifics are really detailed but are written up over on GMLS4) so by going into full charge it puts like a 25hp drain on the system thus creating more heat. Try setting to factory settings and see if you lower the actual temp.
There is also another possibility, setting your fan temps to anything over 80% causes the charging to go into full charge (the specifics are really detailed but are written up over on GMLS4) so by going into full charge it puts like a 25hp drain on the system thus creating more heat. Try setting to factory settings and see if you lower the actual temp.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
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Problem is I have been running the same fan temps for over a year no problem. Coolant never got above 200 even in 90+° days. This happened when I switched from Dec cool to prestone green and redid my heater core lines. When switching to green coolant I also flushed the old coolant system out at least 6 times.
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: hagerstown,md
coolant why the change to green,i use the dex cool and add some royal purple radiator supplement and have no problems,also have added transcooler never goes above 193 and thats stuck in d.c. traffic in afternoon
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
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Green is better and requires less maintenance.
But I have a completely standalone tranny cooler.
I'm working with 91parkave to come up with an aftermarket radiator solution with no built in trans cooler.
But I have a completely standalone tranny cooler.
I'm working with 91parkave to come up with an aftermarket radiator solution with no built in trans cooler.
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When I went completely standalone with my tranny cooler my temps dropped, especially on cold winter days.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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I've always had sex cool get nasty after a year. Cause I always drain a but and check it in the spring. Cars I do same with green come out looking cleaner, and there for not requiring me to drain and refill as often. But to each their own. Just ordered a new water pump. And I'm working on a solution for a new coolant radiator only
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Just looking for some other info, can you tell me if the prestone was pre=mix or if you mixed it, if you mixed it was it with tap water, de-mineralised water or reverse osmosis water.
Also at what ratio and have you tested it for its high low capabilities (freeze point protection/ boil point protection)
Also at what ratio and have you tested it for its high low capabilities (freeze point protection/ boil point protection)
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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Just looking for some other info, can you tell me if the prestone was pre=mix or if you mixed it, if you mixed it was it with tap water, de-mineralised water or reverse osmosis water.
Also at what ratio and have you tested it for its high low capabilities (freeze point protection/ boil point protection)
Also at what ratio and have you tested it for its high low capabilities (freeze point protection/ boil point protection)
I did test it with my O'Reilly auto parts coolant tester and can't remember the results but they were right where they should be
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so that leaves the heater core/ heater coolant lines you worked on. What exactly was done?
I still strongly recommend you re-set your fan settings also. GM has a very complicated setup and there is things happening in more modules than you can imagine. You can make little % increases/decreases to the settings but unless you are capable of re-mapping the whole system do not go 80% or above when/ where it is not needed.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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Ok, if you are certain of that it should give you around -35* to +265*
so that leaves the heater core/ heater coolant lines you worked on. What exactly was done?
I still strongly recommend you re-set your fan settings also. GM has a very complicated setup and there is things happening in more modules than you can imagine. You can make little % increases/decreases to the settings but unless you are capable of re-mapping the whole system do not go 80% or above when/ where it is not needed.
As for heater core lines here's what's done.
One of the metal lines was being rubbed by the cross over (sh¡tty OBX ones) and cause the line to rupture. So after that happened I removed all the metal ones
Basically did custom lines and hid them as much as possible.
Few more things radiator cap is brand new and thermostat is as well.
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If I understand you removed all the bare aluminum heater core coolant pipes and replaced them with insulated heavy rubber hoses, correct.
Now your problem is the total coolant temperature has risen by basically 10* even with the electric fans on high all the time... Humm! Do you think maybe you should re-think this mod. Not being sarcastic or mean btw.
Now your problem is the total coolant temperature has risen by basically 10* even with the electric fans on high all the time... Humm! Do you think maybe you should re-think this mod. Not being sarcastic or mean btw.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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If I understand you removed all the bare aluminum heater core coolant pipes and replaced them with insulated heavy rubber hoses, correct.
Now your problem is the total coolant temperature has risen by basically 10* even with the electric fans on high all the time... Humm! Do you think maybe you should re-think this mod. Not being sarcastic or mean btw.
Now your problem is the total coolant temperature has risen by basically 10* even with the electric fans on high all the time... Humm! Do you think maybe you should re-think this mod. Not being sarcastic or mean btw.
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Well... if you take a moment and think going to a 180* thermo is going to put you further backwards. A new set of tube P/N 15222139 = 76.00 here and I see the going for like 44.00 GM parts direct. You can manipulate them where there is known chaffing or even put a section of rubber tubing over the area and solve the problem. Also the rubber hoses currently used are causing another hidden problem as when they get hot and the system pressurises, they swell. Therefore at some point if not already will chaff and fail. All the cursing already and about to come over not doing something correct far out weighs the cost of doing it correct. Please do not fall prey to the pied piper effect and follow others over the cliff.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
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Well... if you take a moment and think going to a 180* thermo is going to put you further backwards. A new set of tube P/N 15222139 = 76.00 here and I see the going for like 44.00 GM parts direct. You can manipulate them where there is known chaffing or even put a section of rubber tubing over the area and solve the problem. Also the rubber hoses currently used are causing another hidden problem as when they get hot and the system pressurises, they swell. Therefore at some point if not already will chaff and fail. All the cursing already and about to come over not doing something correct far out weighs the cost of doing it correct. Please do not fall prey to the pied piper effect and follow others over the cliff.
Right now my coolant temps are what these cars see on a stock engine and stock tune.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 98
Likes: 0