transmission cooler install
The oem trans cooler lines are threaded into the radiator and the trans, you can convert those fittings using something like this... and just use push on hose and a clamp.
The oem trans cooler lines are threaded into the radiator and the trans, you can convert those fittings using something like this... Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 390 Transmission Line Fitting Kit: Automotive and just use push on hose and a clamp.
The oem trans cooler lines are threaded into the radiator and the trans, you can convert those fittings using something like this... Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 390 Transmission Line Fitting Kit: Automotive and just use push on hose and a clamp.
There is a small spring clip holding the factory line into the radiator, it is removed using something like a dental pick or an awl if the tip is small enough. You will see it when you get up close. Be careful as it is small and could be lost easily if dropped. Using the adapter in post 2 put that into the radiator. Line from that goes into new cooler, line out of new cooler goes back into factory line removed from radiator if installing inline. Hope this helps. Send me a message if you need help, its not really that bad.
Ill take a picture of the lines and the radiator, but the quick disconnect line that your seeing is attached to the threaded fittings on the radiator using that spring clip yes. You can just unthread the entire line from the radiator and thread in the adapter for a hose.
Can you post a parts list and is a GVWR of 30,000 required? What about 20,000 instead?
Also, how does your install compare to OEM? http://www.gmls4.com/index.php/topic...2.html#msg6362
Will this extra transaxle pan magnet work?
I currently have the older square one located after the raised bar in the pan.
Also, how does your install compare to OEM? http://www.gmls4.com/index.php/topic...2.html#msg6362
Will this extra transaxle pan magnet work?
I currently have the older square one located after the raised bar in the pan.
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Verdad Gallardo Now of course if your using the pan with the drain plug you can only use the one magnet, which is fine. I don't have my trans cooler installed yet but ill be posting pictures of it once its in, probably within the next 2 weeks or so.
Can you post a parts list and is a GVWR of 30,000 required? What about 20,000 instead?
Also, how does your install compare to OEM? http://www.gmls4.com/index.php/topic...2.html#msg6362
Will this extra transaxle pan magnet work? Amazon.com: ACDelco 29535617 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Fluid Pan Magnet: Automotive
I currently have the older square one located after the raised bar in the pan.
Also, how does your install compare to OEM? http://www.gmls4.com/index.php/topic...2.html#msg6362
Will this extra transaxle pan magnet work? Amazon.com: ACDelco 29535617 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Fluid Pan Magnet: Automotive
I currently have the older square one located after the raised bar in the pan.
Everything I'm about to order (Dexron VI, two magnets, and Wix filter) should arrive on Saturday from Amazon. The TransGo shift kit is the hold up with scheduled delivery by Tuesday from eBay.
I'd like to add the cooler to the list. Would I need any extra hose?
So it seems like one would need the following:
- Hayden 679 Rapid-Cool transmission cooler - The Rapid-Cool series is better than the Ultra-Cool series. And for the price differences within the Rapid-Cool series, bigger is better.
- Hayden 397 adapter - Used to mimic the factory metal transaxle input line that connects to the top of the radiator.
- Magnefine transmission filter - It's labeled Raybestos in the Amazon image. Regardless, it provides extra security and is easily serviceable versus dropping the pan each time.
- Hayden Automotive 106 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose - Extra tubing for all of the routing.
- Miscellaneous parts, tools, and metal hose clamps.
Last edited by GXP25; May 14, 2015 at 01:50 PM. Reason: Added an extra link.
Because the drain plug is where the secondary magnet is supposed to be. lol and you cannot move them to different locations or you run the risk of having interference with a solenoid on the valve body.
Last edited by spawne32; May 14, 2015 at 12:27 PM.
Thanks.
EDIT: I could still use the smaller magnet or install it before the hump. Two magnets are certainly better than one.
Unless this magnet's height is too large.
Dorman pan for reference:
Last edited by GXP25; May 14, 2015 at 12:23 PM. Reason: Added some more info.
The magnet will not interfere I have 3 hard drive magnets in mine and the dorman pan
For hotter climates just go standalone http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...638241&alt=web
For hotter climates just go standalone http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...638241&alt=web
I installed the cooler inline, install would have went easier if I didn't spend most of my time trying to remover the lower cover to install from the bottom. I never could get the piece out, even if I had been able to no F'in way I could have gotten it back in. Removed all the grills and the latch assembly, put it in thru the top. I used a Hayden Rapid Cool 679(30000lb) and a Hayden adapter part number 397. I didn't cut any lines. Bought some fuel injection clamps also for the ones that are harder to get to and doubled them up. Also installed an inline magnetic filter from Raybestos. Didn't mount it the way I was hoping to but it seems to get good flow and it seems solid. Not overly hard, but not a real fun job either. Took it out on the highway for a 25 minute cruise and the temp didn't get over 129 degrees. The real test will be my work commute and sitting in traffic I will have to monitor and see if it helped as I was hoping for. I will post back once I get some real results.
So assuming you rotated the Hayden cooler 90° to the right, take the line coming from the top of the factory radiator and install it to the bottom port of the Hayden cooler. Then take the top exit port from the Hayden cooler and install it to the Magnefine filter and then to the factory line that you removed from the factory radiator.
Necessary or not?
Originally Posted by Tommy231
I have always understood that the best routing for oil and trans coolers is to have the fluid enter from the bottom and exit through the top. This is so that air naturally purges from the cooler and to prevent what I would call the waterfall effect of the opposite flow. If the fluid flows in from top it can "trickle" downward like a waterfall along with a lot of air, minimizing the contact area of the fluid to the heat exchanger, ultimately reducing the cooling capacity.