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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 06:50 PM
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so I disabled the rear o2 and I have the dtcs disabled through hptuners. I don't get a ses light but when I pull the codes I see this. need to pass safety and emissions, is this something they will see when they plug in?



[] P0036 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0054 - HO2S Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0138 - HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Old) (Immature)
[] P0141 - HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0054 - HO2S Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 2
[] P0141 - HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2
[] P0036 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 08:17 PM
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you need to change them to 3 - NO ERROR REPORTED in hptuners
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 08:39 PM
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thanks, I didn't even notice I could change that, I just figured uncheck it... im use to tunercats lol

Last edited by blkchevyz; Jul 22, 2015 at 08:46 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 08:54 PM
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do I need to worry about this stuff?


Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Incomplete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: n/a
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: n/a
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 09:21 PM
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Yes, it must be complete, or they will tell you to come back.there is a limit to how many monitors can be incomplete older cars is like 2, newer is 1I believe, but I'm sure all locations are different, just call your local emissions and ask how many monitors can be incomplete.Also, down in north Texas, you get like 3 chances to pass on the original fee.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by blkchevyz
do I need to worry about this stuff?


Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Incomplete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: n/a
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: n/a
catalyst is the easy one, just disable P0420 and that will pass catalyst. o2 heater requires the heater codes be disabled for both sensors, and the regular o2 test requires codes be disabled for everything related to o2 sensors. Evap i havent found a way to disable that test, but you can pass with it incomplete.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 09:34 PM
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u also have to drive some to get data built up
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 08:11 AM
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i thought i had the heater codes disabled already, could that be a case where i just need to drive it a little before it clears?
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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the drive is not to clear,if there is noe enough data stored in computer they tell u to bring it back have been dealing with this stuf for years in md,used to get false o2 sensors and that would send false signal but now with tunes that is obsolete
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 11:02 AM
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well added an o2 bung post cat. cleared the heater code but was still getting the catalyst one and evap. went ahead and reprogrammed it to remove the catalyst...
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 08:57 AM
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well **** it failed lol i didnt give it enough time to do the test for the o2 sensor after i reprogramed it. funny it cleared about 10 minutes after i took the car home.
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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IT will pass now just take it back
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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did it pass?lol
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 02:52 PM
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yeah passed without any issues 2nd time lol
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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nice to hear my man
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Old Dec 29, 2025 | 10:13 AM
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Well I used the OBD Link MX+ and my laptop (Windows 11 on a Dell) had a very difficult time trying to connect to it. When it finally did I kept getting the "Unexpected response to STPX payload: BUS BUSY" with PCM hammer until after 6 tries it finally seemed to read. Then when I went to read the uploaded file from the PCM to download it to ensure that the changes were made, it couldn't do it and gave me an error. Thankfully I was able to start my car after this and the changes seem to be made.

I am not sure why I am having such a hard time connecting to the OBD Link MX+ via bluetooth. I am thinking of going with the wired version (OBD Link EX) to try and skip any blue tooth issues. I would assume going wired would be faster? Otherwise I should probably look into OBDX Pro
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