Will bad LCA bushings cause an occasional clunk?
#1
Will bad LCA bushings cause an occasional clunk?
I have been chasing a clunk for nearly 2 years. Here is all the info I have. It first started 2 years ago. It would happen when the front wheels were slightly turned and the front of the car was in grass, and then I would back up slowly to get into the asphalt. I would hear a clunk as the engine rpm increased to crest onto the asphalt.
Next occurrence is when I downshift from 2nd to 1st (a rare occasion) or 3rd to second. It happens sometimes when I accelerate during acceleration. It happens often enough when I let off the throttle. Sometimes the clunk sounds gradual (2 or 3 in a row as of something is slipping).
It got worse in winter. Then as temps increased it quieted down. Another observation is the car came slightly out of alignment for no apparent reason. Would that be LCA of subframe bushings or both? There is now a slight bare metal scuff on the inside of the driver wheel well. So I can tell something has moved when I combine that with the alignment being off.
Now the status is I had a shop put it in the lift. The lower control arm bushings are super rotted. They literally have holes in them. Car really doesn't drive poorly which is strange but just recently at a higher speed turn I heard a clunk and thought it was time to bring it in.
I changed the engine mounts thinking it was that. It's not. So what's left is subframe bushings or LCA bushings (which I would change the whole LCA). Thoughts?
I of course need the LCA. But I just assume have them also do subframe bushings (I know, a much bigger job) while they are in there. Car has 183k. The tech took a large bar at the subframe mounts and everything seemed tight.
Thank for your help!!
Next occurrence is when I downshift from 2nd to 1st (a rare occasion) or 3rd to second. It happens sometimes when I accelerate during acceleration. It happens often enough when I let off the throttle. Sometimes the clunk sounds gradual (2 or 3 in a row as of something is slipping).
It got worse in winter. Then as temps increased it quieted down. Another observation is the car came slightly out of alignment for no apparent reason. Would that be LCA of subframe bushings or both? There is now a slight bare metal scuff on the inside of the driver wheel well. So I can tell something has moved when I combine that with the alignment being off.
Now the status is I had a shop put it in the lift. The lower control arm bushings are super rotted. They literally have holes in them. Car really doesn't drive poorly which is strange but just recently at a higher speed turn I heard a clunk and thought it was time to bring it in.
I changed the engine mounts thinking it was that. It's not. So what's left is subframe bushings or LCA bushings (which I would change the whole LCA). Thoughts?
I of course need the LCA. But I just assume have them also do subframe bushings (I know, a much bigger job) while they are in there. Car has 183k. The tech took a large bar at the subframe mounts and everything seemed tight.
Thank for your help!!
#4
Engine mounts changed. Sway bar end links changed. It sounds like a very significant clunk which only happens under weight transfer. I feel as if tie rod ends or ball joints would be more regular. This is still a noise that happens on some bumps, some accelerations, sometimes braking, some curves. What is the procedure for lower control arms vs subframe bushings? Would it make sense to do LCA first? Or should I just do both at once to save labor (or are they largely independent)
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Engine mounts changed. Sway bar end links changed. It sounds like a very significant clunk which only happens under weight transfer. I feel as if tie rod ends or ball joints would be more regular. This is still a noise that happens on some bumps, some accelerations, sometimes braking, some curves. What is the procedure for lower control arms vs subframe bushings? Would it make sense to do LCA first? Or should I just do both at once to save labor (or are they largely independent)
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Engine mounts changed. Sway bar end links changed. It sounds like a very significant clunk which only happens under weight transfer. I feel as if tie rod ends or ball joints would be more regular. This is still a noise that happens on some bumps, some accelerations, sometimes braking, some curves. What is the procedure for lower control arms vs subframe bushings? Would it make sense to do LCA first? Or should I just do both at once to save labor (or are they largely independent)
#9
#10
TECH Junkie
#13
TECH Junkie
#14
#15
Annoyed to report New lower control arms did NOT solve my clunk. What else is left? This is a very siginificant clunk which happens during weight transfer of the engine. It is worst when I use manual mode to keep the car in 1st gear. I acce=lerate and then when i let off CLUNK. If I let back on heavily, CLUNK Super frustrating at this point. Is the only thing left subframe bushings?! I would like to eliminate everything since subframe bushings requires dropping the subframe
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
When you said you replaced the engine mounts did you do all 4? Top is the dog bone mount that also has the square bushing, drivers side is the transmission mount, front of vehicle can barely be seen and is a real bitch (these are the ones that usually break), and passenger rear (when these wear the motor usually sags to that side). Attempt to tighten all the sway bar end links as well, even a little movement will cause a clunk or if they are servicible make sure they are greased.
#17
All engine mounts changed with the exception of the top dogbone which was changed about 80k ago and the rubber still looks good. The clunk comes from both the left and right side of the engine towards the outer edge of the engine bay depending on the clunk occurrence. Sway bar end links are new and tight but I will double check. It sounds like a very heavy clunk and given the thickness of the sway bar I doubt it could make that sound. It also sounds like the sound is almost towards the front of the engine and down low. (not the back where the sway bar is) Thank you though I will check
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SpeedySam14 (09-27-2023)
#20
The strut bearing you refer to is the ring visible at the top right under the hood? I did Monroe quick struts so the whole units were changed. I am definitely thinking of bringing to another shop to diagnose.