Any RCA jacks with the......
12-06-2006, 08:40 PM
#21
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Has anyone tried a LOC with the BOSE setup yet? I was wondering how the "noise" was in the lines. Do you hear any hissing? Also what wires did you use? I might be willing to try it out. . . but I may end up ditching the stock head unit if it is noisy.
12-07-2006, 07:43 AM
#22
Originally Posted by eddiemoney
Competition Bass is loud SPL style bass. Usually it is very uncontrolled, loud, with a very limited range. It is designed to play one note, within a 20 hz range. . . .so anyone that talks about quality competition bass for their car is clueless when it comes to car audio and should probably leave it to the professionals before they screw something up.
Usually what people mean is street style bass. This usually involves a ported enclosure, loud uneffecient subs, and a better range. This is meant for street shaking bass that gives a loud thump into the trunk, but provides little sound quality appeal to audiophiles. If I wanted a sub that would fit this boat a Kicker Solobaric would be a good common man example. When I used to build cars like this I would use Treo Engineering SS subwoofers. For the price I think they are the best on the market. See pics here:
The next range I would call is Performance Bass. I would define this as good sound quality woofers (Alpine Type R, Infinity Kappa Perfect, Diamond, etc) combined with a powerful amp (600 rms plus per woofer). This provides a good loud snap, with excellent range and bass response. This is what I put in all my cars in sealed enclosures. It gives good tight bass, not sloppy like Street or Comp styles, but still provides a nice boom when you turn it up. Expect to spend $400 + on an amp and $150+ on each woofer.
The lowest range is what I would call econonmical bass. This provides just a little bottom end to your music. It is what is found in most factory subwoofer setups. This is also most of the brands you will find in Best Buy/Circuit City type places. Rockford, Fusion, Kenwood, etcetera all fall into this category. Even some of the lower end of quality places pieces Alpine Type E or S, Infinity Reference, JBL GTO series, etcetera would fall into this category. THis is where you buy a cheaper amp (150-300 rms per woofer) This is for adding a little bottom end to your music while maintaining a cheap budget. Usuaully people doing this don't know how to tune their amps properly and end up clipping their amps, blowing woofers, and so on as they are trying to make it louder any means neccesary.
The bottom feeder category is for those of you who buy car audio from Sony, JC Whitney, Lanzar, California, and the like. These items are crap, the amp ratings are inflated, you aren't buying what you think you are.
If anyone wants suggestions on a good setup for your musical taste and volume taste, drop me a line, I can help you out.
Usually what people mean is street style bass. This usually involves a ported enclosure, loud uneffecient subs, and a better range. This is meant for street shaking bass that gives a loud thump into the trunk, but provides little sound quality appeal to audiophiles. If I wanted a sub that would fit this boat a Kicker Solobaric would be a good common man example. When I used to build cars like this I would use Treo Engineering SS subwoofers. For the price I think they are the best on the market. See pics here:
The next range I would call is Performance Bass. I would define this as good sound quality woofers (Alpine Type R, Infinity Kappa Perfect, Diamond, etc) combined with a powerful amp (600 rms plus per woofer). This provides a good loud snap, with excellent range and bass response. This is what I put in all my cars in sealed enclosures. It gives good tight bass, not sloppy like Street or Comp styles, but still provides a nice boom when you turn it up. Expect to spend $400 + on an amp and $150+ on each woofer.
The lowest range is what I would call econonmical bass. This provides just a little bottom end to your music. It is what is found in most factory subwoofer setups. This is also most of the brands you will find in Best Buy/Circuit City type places. Rockford, Fusion, Kenwood, etcetera all fall into this category. Even some of the lower end of quality places pieces Alpine Type E or S, Infinity Reference, JBL GTO series, etcetera would fall into this category. THis is where you buy a cheaper amp (150-300 rms per woofer) This is for adding a little bottom end to your music while maintaining a cheap budget. Usuaully people doing this don't know how to tune their amps properly and end up clipping their amps, blowing woofers, and so on as they are trying to make it louder any means neccesary.
The bottom feeder category is for those of you who buy car audio from Sony, JC Whitney, Lanzar, California, and the like. These items are crap, the amp ratings are inflated, you aren't buying what you think you are.
If anyone wants suggestions on a good setup for your musical taste and volume taste, drop me a line, I can help you out.
But really. What makes a tone in the 20-100 hz range all of a sudden "Competition"? LOL
I've been installing for almost 15 years on/off again. HAve competed in USAC and IASCA in SQ and SPL. That's why I never could understand the term "Competition Bass" It's just BASS. It's a freq. range.
I also mod the stereo section here too.
I'd just do a LOC and be done with it. BUT, I'll ask Whitebird00 if he know's of any adaptors that'll work out of the Changer control port. There are some radio's that do work like that, but I'm not sure they are any better then the LOC since the stock HU isn't that great of a piece to start out with.
BTW, do you know who 1st manufactured that basket? It's been around for quite a while.
Last edited by Richiec77; 12-07-2006 at 07:52 AM.
12-07-2006, 11:46 AM
#24
Yup, but was made by another company before that...Ah hell I'll just say it. Lanzar. That basket design was 1st seen in use around 1994-1995 time frame.
It's nuts how the manufacturing goes for stereo stuff. Especially Speakers. There was a trend where alot of the higher end Component speaker companies use to buy MB Quart Tweeter, and then concentrate on developing their own mid-range/cross-over pacakges. But the whole system was advertised as Brand XXX.
This type of borrowing and leasing goes on alot. Onyx use to have a Square shaped sub that was basically an exact copy of the Kicker L7. But they had upgraded the cone matterial and changed the motor structure.
It's nuts how the manufacturing goes for stereo stuff. Especially Speakers. There was a trend where alot of the higher end Component speaker companies use to buy MB Quart Tweeter, and then concentrate on developing their own mid-range/cross-over pacakges. But the whole system was advertised as Brand XXX.
This type of borrowing and leasing goes on alot. Onyx use to have a Square shaped sub that was basically an exact copy of the Kicker L7. But they had upgraded the cone matterial and changed the motor structure.
12-07-2006, 02:09 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Richiec77
Yup, but was made by another company before that...Ah hell I'll just say it. Lanzar. That basket design was 1st seen in use around 1994-1995 time frame.
It's nuts how the manufacturing goes for stereo stuff. Especially Speakers. There was a trend where alot of the higher end Component speaker companies use to buy MB Quart Tweeter, and then concentrate on developing their own mid-range/cross-over pacakges. But the whole system was advertised as Brand XXX.
This type of borrowing and leasing goes on alot. Onyx use to have a Square shaped sub that was basically an exact copy of the Kicker L7. But they had upgraded the cone matterial and changed the motor structure.
It's nuts how the manufacturing goes for stereo stuff. Especially Speakers. There was a trend where alot of the higher end Component speaker companies use to buy MB Quart Tweeter, and then concentrate on developing their own mid-range/cross-over pacakges. But the whole system was advertised as Brand XXX.
This type of borrowing and leasing goes on alot. Onyx use to have a Square shaped sub that was basically an exact copy of the Kicker L7. But they had upgraded the cone matterial and changed the motor structure.
basic, comp, and pro. the sub i have is the prototype for the comp series. all subs were round, no squares. then again, they were only around for about a year and half. priced out of the range of normal users. IE 300-989 dollars for a 12, depending on level of sub. mine retailed for 700 bucks.
yikes!
same thing goes with tire, valve springs, lifters blah blah. only about 3-4 companies do all of them. but thousands of companies sell them as their own. which is why you can buy cheapy tires that look identical to a top of the line brand, same tread pattern, but half the cost.
12-08-2006, 02:08 PM
#29
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So I have a question for anybody who's ran an amp power wire in the Impala........where did you run it thru? I've been looking and I see no easy way to get thru the firewall between the engine compartment and the cabin. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
12-08-2006, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by maintainin
So I have a question for anybody who's ran an amp power wire in the Impala........where did you run it thru? I've been looking and I see no easy way to get thru the firewall between the engine compartment and the cabin. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
12-08-2006, 04:08 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by maintainin
So I have a question for anybody who's ran an amp power wire in the Impala........where did you run it thru? I've been looking and I see no easy way to get thru the firewall between the engine compartment and the cabin. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
12-08-2006, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by maintainin
LOL, I said easy. I dont know about your GXP but it looks like there is pretty tough grey shroud the steering linkage on my impala.
it's easier then it sounds
12-08-2006, 06:36 PM
#35
Originally Posted by Area47
actually it is. it's a dual layer boot. get some fish tape, strape the wire to the end of it, poke a hole in the boot with a screw driver or something, and drag it through.
it's easier then it sounds
it's easier then it sounds
BTW if anyone uses electrical tape, please buy 3M Super 33+ tape. It's not too cheap (about $3-4 a roll) but it's about the best tape you can use. Electricians use it in houses to protect the switches and outlets and it sticks for years on end.
